Water Softeners and Air Filtration Systems - Chlorination Questions

Hi, I'm thinking about a simple chlorination system for my home to deal with iron bacteria. I have a drilled well, submersible pump. In my basement is a bladder-type pressure tank and softener.

System would be: Injection pump to pressure tank to retention tank/static mixer to whole house carbon to softener. A few questions:

1) Most info I've come across suggests injecting chlorine before the pressure tank. Is this correct? Will it hurt the rubber bladder?

2) I don't have a lot of iron (about 0.4 ppm), so I won't be injecting much chlorine (1-2 ppm). Can I get away with a static mixer instead of a retention tank? I'm concerned with eliminating odour and killing IRB, as opposed to high iron oxidization. Of course, I am prepared to spend the money on a retention tank, if absolutely necessary.

3) Most folks plumb their house to bypass water treatment equipment for outside taps. But if I inject prior to pressure tank, wouldn't this mean I am sending chlorinated water to outside, potentially harming plants and grass? Of course, I'll only be feeding around 1-2 ppm chlorine, so maybe that's not a concern?

4) I'm a little confused about mixing solution. If household bleach contains only 5% chlorine, can you inject it at full strength right from the jug, or do you have to mix with water? Other alternatives would be to mix 68% calcium hypochlorite with water, but seems too much trouble and too imprecise, as opposed to going with bleach?

5) Will I need to repressurize/boost water flow after all this equipment? If so, how?

Thanks in advance!

Hey check out item #7501908310 on ebay and see what you think I'm cosidering purchasing one myself but have not had time to call and talk to them personally.
Neil

You are correct in the installation order........however, you need to think about why you need a mixing tank.....if the solution flows into your tank every time your pressure switch is activated, isn't that mixing?.......don't worry about hurting the bladder, but I would reduce the amount of injection, you really only want to see about .4 to .5 ppm in you water.......don't worry so much about your plants, at that low of concentration they'll be fine.....you could plumb in a hosed bib before your tank to use for watering, just shut off the chlorinator before use, but that's alot of trouble.....BUT, in my opinion, if I came to your house, listened to the problems you describe, then tested your water, I wouldn't sell you a chlorinator as a solution to the odor problem...... .4ppm of iron is nothing, the odor is most likely a result of the bladder tank.....odors are released from the water when it contacts oxygen, which in your house, at the faucet......the odors probably aren't coming from the iron, they're coming from the bacteria growing inside the bladder.......I would suggest a galvanized tank.......but that's only my opinion

Hey check out item #7501908310 on ebay and see what you think I'm cosidering purchasing one myself but have not had time to call and talk to them personally.
Neil


Anybody have any experience with this system? the manufacturer website is http://www.purewatertreatment.com, the 3000 model seems to do it all? No filtration media to replace!? In-line chlorination! seems to good to be true, what is the "catch"?

I looked at that chlorinator. It seems to be exactly like a pool or spa chlorinator, which sell for less than $100. As for filtering media that "you never need to replace," I seriously doubt it!

Is this method of chlorination (pool/suana variant) not a "good idea"? why?

I tend to agree with you about the filtration replacement, but would still would like to get some other opinions. Any comments would be appreciated.

I don't believe there's anything wrong with using tablet/puck erosion feeders in chlorinating potable water. (I've been looking at the same type of chlorinator myself, by the way.)

In fact, there are several companies that make just such equipment for large-scale water treatment (campgrounds, municipal waterworks, apartments, etc.) So, I assume it would be okay for a residence.

What I don't like is a company listing a product for over $400, then reducing it to a "special" price of about $250, when it appears to be nothing more than an in-line pool chlorinator that sells for less than $100 for pool stores. If there's anything different between the erosion-style feeder for pools and the one that this and other comapnies sell for water treatment, then they should say so. Otherwise, it may be a scam. I'm not a water treatment pro, so I'd love to learn more about them, but info on these units is scarce. I contacted a different company that was selling this type of unit for several hundred dollars. When I asked the difference between their model and a regular pool chlorinator, their response was quite abrupt, claiming they didn't know anything about pool chlorinators.

If anyone out there knows the difference, if any, between erosion-style chlorinators for pool vs. water treatment, I'd love to hear it?

P.S. As I said, I haven't come across any research that says erosion-style chlorination is not suitable for a residential application (as long as you use calcium hypochlorite pellets). However, one would assume that these chlorinators have the same occasional problems as the ones for pools do: inconsistent dosing, clogging/deterioration of feed tube, not enough water being sucked up into the pellet chamber to disolve pellets, etc. Also, I'm not sure if these units can be dialed to emit low doses? For example if you want to dose only 1 or 2 ppm?

I wouldn't use an erosion type for exactly the points you made.......take a look at Stenner pumps......they are easy to install and operate..... the adjustment is a single ring.....it's not a diaphram pump, it uses a tube and roller assembly.....i can answer more questions later if you're interested