Kitchen Gas Appliances - XL44 Oven won't ignite with new HSI
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tmarks
03-22-05, 09:26 PM
A couple of days ago, my oven stopped working. After reading a few posts on this website, I checked my ignitor. When the oven was switched on, the ignitor would not glow and there was no sound of gas flowing. Bingo!
I did a search on several parts websites, as well as related posts on this website, and came up with the valid part number for my oven.
GE XL44 (I would guess 12 years old)
Model: JGBC15GER2
Old Ignitor P/N: WB2X97581
New Ignitor P/N: WB2X9154
Based on the information I found on the internet, the two ignitors seemed to be interchangeable. I purchased and installed it. Now, when the oven is turned on, the ignitor glows very brightly a slightly orange yellow and I can hear gas flow. I couldn't tell you if the sound of the gas flow is as strong as before the first ignitor went out.
The problem is that the oven still won't ignite. Well, it will "ignite" if you let it run for a couple of minutes. Eventually it makes a mild bang and flames escape between the bottom of the oven door and the broiler- not safe and certainly not how it operated before.
Based on previous posts that I read with similar symptoms, the ignitor isn't allowing enough current through the circuit. I was hoping that this wasn't the case as my ignitor is brand new.
Did I purchase the wrong part? Only one of the parts stores that I found on the internet even listed a WB2X97581 ignitor. And they were selling a generic ignitor that was supposed to replace several ignitors, including both the WB2X97581 and WB2X9154.
If it's the right part, are there some tests I can run to isolate the ignitor as the culprit? I have a multimeter. I would assume that current tests should be done with the gas disconnected (no melted meters). Will the oven operate properly without gas pressure?
BTW, the posts I read were very informative and very helpful. Hats off to Sharp Advice and mbk3.
Thanks,
Tom
I did a search on several parts websites, as well as related posts on this website, and came up with the valid part number for my oven.
GE XL44 (I would guess 12 years old)
Model: JGBC15GER2
Old Ignitor P/N: WB2X97581
New Ignitor P/N: WB2X9154
Based on the information I found on the internet, the two ignitors seemed to be interchangeable. I purchased and installed it. Now, when the oven is turned on, the ignitor glows very brightly a slightly orange yellow and I can hear gas flow. I couldn't tell you if the sound of the gas flow is as strong as before the first ignitor went out.
The problem is that the oven still won't ignite. Well, it will "ignite" if you let it run for a couple of minutes. Eventually it makes a mild bang and flames escape between the bottom of the oven door and the broiler- not safe and certainly not how it operated before.
Based on previous posts that I read with similar symptoms, the ignitor isn't allowing enough current through the circuit. I was hoping that this wasn't the case as my ignitor is brand new.
Did I purchase the wrong part? Only one of the parts stores that I found on the internet even listed a WB2X97581 ignitor. And they were selling a generic ignitor that was supposed to replace several ignitors, including both the WB2X97581 and WB2X9154.
If it's the right part, are there some tests I can run to isolate the ignitor as the culprit? I have a multimeter. I would assume that current tests should be done with the gas disconnected (no melted meters). Will the oven operate properly without gas pressure?
BTW, the posts I read were very informative and very helpful. Hats off to Sharp Advice and mbk3.
Thanks,
Tom
Sharp Advice
03-22-05, 09:58 PM
Hello Tom and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliances topic.
Several Possibilities:
The ignitor is not an exact duplicate as the OEM part. Seems like is not the same as exactly likely. I personally perfer OEM parts over generic.
The new ignitor may not line up on the burner exactly the same as the OEM part. Which allows gas to buildup before ignition takes places. Which causes the delayed ignition you describe.
There is a possibility the ignition holes, ports or slots on the burner near the ignitor are restricted. Check and clear if needed. Gas existing the burner must come into direct contact with the ignitor. Ignitor must be lined up with the burner and positioned properly.
New ignitor may not allow sufficient current to flow to the gas valve, which is already wornout from previous usage. Possible a new gas valve is needed. Usually but not always replaced with the new ignitor as a matched pair.
Help Link: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Site Links: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
General Electric Appliance Home Page:
http://www.ge.com
Advertisers and Sponsors:
Appliance Parts, Pictures & Help:
http://www.PartSelect.com
Appliances Parts & Help:
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com
Kitchen Appliance Parts:
http://www.parts-depot.online.com
Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.
Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics and Repair Technician.
Personal Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
Several Possibilities:
The ignitor is not an exact duplicate as the OEM part. Seems like is not the same as exactly likely. I personally perfer OEM parts over generic.
The new ignitor may not line up on the burner exactly the same as the OEM part. Which allows gas to buildup before ignition takes places. Which causes the delayed ignition you describe.
There is a possibility the ignition holes, ports or slots on the burner near the ignitor are restricted. Check and clear if needed. Gas existing the burner must come into direct contact with the ignitor. Ignitor must be lined up with the burner and positioned properly.
New ignitor may not allow sufficient current to flow to the gas valve, which is already wornout from previous usage. Possible a new gas valve is needed. Usually but not always replaced with the new ignitor as a matched pair.
Help Link: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Site Links: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808
General Electric Appliance Home Page:
http://www.ge.com
Advertisers and Sponsors:
Appliance Parts, Pictures & Help:
http://www.PartSelect.com
Appliances Parts & Help:
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com
Kitchen Appliance Parts:
http://www.parts-depot.online.com
Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.
Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics and Repair Technician.
Personal Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
tmarks
03-23-05, 10:59 AM
Sharp Advice,
Thanks for the reply. The ignitor that I purchased (WB2X9154) is a GE OEM replacement part, and it was recommended for my model number, so I think I don't have any problems there- unless it's faulty.
I'll take a look at the vent ports and ignitor position tonight. I'll post an update later.
Thanks for the reply. The ignitor that I purchased (WB2X9154) is a GE OEM replacement part, and it was recommended for my model number, so I think I don't have any problems there- unless it's faulty.
I'll take a look at the vent ports and ignitor position tonight. I'll post an update later.