Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - dryer will not heat or turn drum.

:alarm: I have a Whirlpool dryer model # LE9100XT. I am unable to get dryer to run. I have tested voltage at Start switch (shows 120v). Test at Timer(Red And Black Thickest wires show (120v). Timer ticks when on. Door switch is operating ok. When I open it Power at Start Switch Stops. I've Tested The red and Black wires At Blackswitch Box Located Next to Drum Motor They Both Show (120V) on both side of Box. I'm Starting to Feel like the motor is Bad the dryer is 12 Years old But I am Also Not getting any heat from the heating element. So if it was Just a bad motor wouldn't I feel heat coming from the element when I start the Dryer. Is there a possibility that it could be a safety thermostate or relay. Please Help with any suggestions. My next step is to call the repair man and pay out the service call fee to get my motor pronounced dead. Thanks! :wall: :wall:

We'll since no one had any suggestions I was left to call the repair man. Motor was ok. Just a thermal fuse was bad on the blower at the exit point. Cost me 75.00 dollars in all. A lot cheaper than a new motor or a new dryer. But a lot of cash for a tinny little part and something so simple to find and replace. Sure wish someone would of suggested checking it. It was the first thing he went for must be pretty common for none working motors. I guess I should of tryed other forums with more activity than this site. Is any one out there? Oh well. Maby this info will help someone else. The part is a flat white piece of plastic about an inch and a half long with two metal prongs sticking out of it and this is where the wires connect (blue). Replace this first before replacing your motor or calling the repairman. Good Luck!

SORRY .... DIDNT START ON HERE TILL RECENTLY... HOPE HE TOLD YOU ALSO THAT A DIRTY VENT HOSE IS A LIKELY CAUSE OF THE FUSE BLOWING... THE FUSE GOES IF THE TEMP IN THE BLOWER HOUSING EXCEEDS A CERTAIN TEMPERATURE... :coffee:

After the repairman replaced the high limit thermostat the dryer worked for about 60 days then it went dead again. I had the same symptoms so I went and replaced the high limit thermostat my self. Now I have replaced it a total of 3 times. It works fine until you stop the dryer and then it won't start back up until I replace the high limit. I have checked the complete vent. Inside and out. Could my control thermostat be bad. And if so is that the thermostat located next to the high limit on the fan housing. Could this be caused by the motor over heating or one of the thermostats on the heating element housing. Any suggestions would be helpful!!! Its getting exspensive replacing these high limits at $14.00 a peice even with out the repairman labor charges. Thanks!

as bb told you the likely cause is restricted air flow causing heat buildup eventually melting the fuse. I am not sure if that fuse if would melt even if the heat was on all the time and the airflow was working right.

Maybe the thermostat is not turning the heat off in conjunction with partially reduced air flow or a weak blower[is the blower area clean].

If you connect the two wires you took off the safety fuse and turn the dryer on to low heat does the gas go out after a while . What about medium and high if you have them. Probably not likely since it wouldn't take 2 months for it to blow the fuse.

I say check the airflow again. That fuse blows when something else is wrong. Joneq is just thinking outloud :eek:

Check the slip on connectors that slip onto the fuse.
If the wire connections are poor, this will generate heat at the connection and the fuse.
You can have a bad crimp that holds the wire.
Best to clean the wires and replace the connectors.

One more thing to check... Take off the housing that holds the heating element. Remove the screw that holds the heating element in housing & slide it out. Check to see that the element is not grounding out to the frame anywhere. If it is, its possible the element is staying on even though the thermostat is cutting off one leg of the power to it. Saw it happen before.
Worth a look. Dave

After taking the blower housing apart and vacuuming out. Didnt find a lot of lint. So after doing some reading online it just made sense that the control themostat was probably sticking. I replaced both the thermal fuse and the control thermostat (it has 4 wires, 2 go to the attached heater that allows the thermostat to cycle on the low setting). Now all is fine. After doing some reading several articles said you should always replace the control thermostat anytime you replace a bad thermal fuse (unless you find obvious clogs of lint in the vent) The part cost about $14.95. (plus $12.95 themal fuse) I'll give it 60 days before I start the party!!!