Kitchen Gas Appliances - Should AC voltage feed to solenoids/igniter be 22v or 120v (Kenmore)
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aexdri
03-17-05, 02:22 AM
Got a used Kenmore gas dryer that supposedly was working (model # 11087872100), but scratched and rusty (had been near ocean in Half Moon Bay, CA) - moved it by truck to my sister's in Marin. No heat, no glow,so replaced ignitor (old one was 96 ohms but physically intact, new one is about 52 ohms). Still no glow.
ALREADY DID THE USUAL DIAGNOSTICS:
Know that we need solenoids (no continuity between any terminals on either one using known good ECG autoranging digital multi-meter, but didn't discover till parts stores in Marin closed for day.) Local repair man I talked to wasn't convinced I knew how to test continuity, I guess - said he'd stay at shop and sell me parts later but insisted I check other things first. No perceptible voltage being supplied to igniter when dryer running and heat called for (duh, since solenoid coils failed open, as shown by continuity test failure). All other continuity tests recommended in main info post here done, all tested good (continuity observed). (Temp control only had correct resistance per chart on inside kick panel at middle setting, so used that setting for further testing.)
FINALLY, THE QUESTION:
AC voltage coming from (I believe it is the centrifugal switch, near/on motor, based on schematic on kick panel) motor area to gas valve/burner assembly is on 2 wire quick disconnect - pulled it apart and found 22 VAC when heat called for and dryer tumbling - that same local guy (who didn't stay and sell me the solenoids, darn!) told me there should be 120 VAC there. Should there be 120 VAC feeding the solenoids/ignitor/burner assembly circuits when heat is called for, or is 22 volts AC the correct voltage? (I seem to recall that lots of central heat systems I have owned and worked on have 24 VAC control voltage going to the solenoid/burner assembly area; I'm guessing that 22 VAC on a digital meter would probly be ok if only 24 v req'd).
WHY I WANT TO KNOW BEFORE REPLACING SOLENOID COILS:
I know the solenoids need replacing, but it takes me 3 hours round trip tp get up to my sister's and back, and if the timer or the centrifugal switch or something else is bad and delivering 22 v where I should have 120 v, probably would rather find another used gas dryer for $50 - $100 (and see it work before paying).
Didn't read all 2008 posts here, but read quite a few and tried a search, couldn't find any previous discussion of the correct voltage at that point in circuit. Wd aprreciate your input on correct voltage and anything else I may have overlooked, thanks for a great forum!
Kendall
ALREADY DID THE USUAL DIAGNOSTICS:
Know that we need solenoids (no continuity between any terminals on either one using known good ECG autoranging digital multi-meter, but didn't discover till parts stores in Marin closed for day.) Local repair man I talked to wasn't convinced I knew how to test continuity, I guess - said he'd stay at shop and sell me parts later but insisted I check other things first. No perceptible voltage being supplied to igniter when dryer running and heat called for (duh, since solenoid coils failed open, as shown by continuity test failure). All other continuity tests recommended in main info post here done, all tested good (continuity observed). (Temp control only had correct resistance per chart on inside kick panel at middle setting, so used that setting for further testing.)
FINALLY, THE QUESTION:
AC voltage coming from (I believe it is the centrifugal switch, near/on motor, based on schematic on kick panel) motor area to gas valve/burner assembly is on 2 wire quick disconnect - pulled it apart and found 22 VAC when heat called for and dryer tumbling - that same local guy (who didn't stay and sell me the solenoids, darn!) told me there should be 120 VAC there. Should there be 120 VAC feeding the solenoids/ignitor/burner assembly circuits when heat is called for, or is 22 volts AC the correct voltage? (I seem to recall that lots of central heat systems I have owned and worked on have 24 VAC control voltage going to the solenoid/burner assembly area; I'm guessing that 22 VAC on a digital meter would probly be ok if only 24 v req'd).
WHY I WANT TO KNOW BEFORE REPLACING SOLENOID COILS:
I know the solenoids need replacing, but it takes me 3 hours round trip tp get up to my sister's and back, and if the timer or the centrifugal switch or something else is bad and delivering 22 v where I should have 120 v, probably would rather find another used gas dryer for $50 - $100 (and see it work before paying).
Didn't read all 2008 posts here, but read quite a few and tried a search, couldn't find any previous discussion of the correct voltage at that point in circuit. Wd aprreciate your input on correct voltage and anything else I may have overlooked, thanks for a great forum!
Kendall
mbk3
03-17-05, 07:23 PM
There is no 24 volts. all 120