Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - porcelein sink faucet knobs won't stay in place
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : porcelein sink faucet knobs won't stay in place
jeastith
03-02-05, 07:53 PM
I just bought a house built in the 1940's. One of the things I love about it is the kitchen sink which is porcelein, and in great condition. The faucet is the old type that extends out from the inside of the basin rather than sitting on top like new faucets do. When I turn on the hot water, two things happen. The hot water knob doesn't stay in place--it slowly moves itself so that the pressure increases. There is a vibration and a loud noise, but only when the pressure is at a specific place. If it is on real hard, no noise, and when it is on just a bit, no noise. But in the middle, it is so loud, and there is a very heavy vibration. Not sure what to do--please help! If the faucet needs to be replaced, where do I find an old fashioned one like this?
Kobuchi
03-03-05, 08:05 PM
I'm confused about how it "extends out from the inside of the basin". Like some old bathtub faucets, with the holes in the tub? Or do you mean it comes out of the wall - like many of that period did?
Perfectly good true reproductions of that second type can be had at reasonable prices. Same mould and everything. Even my local Home Depot clone has them. Brands like Kohler also make them, but these cost many times more and are no truer to the originals. Search "wall mount faucet", if you have what I think you have.
I'm guessing the valve stems were sometime replaced with ones not quite compatible, and that's why water isn't passing nicely. The solution is to change them for the proper ones. Normally I would take an old valve stem off the faucet to the store for comparison but that isn't possible. If you can find an exact reproduction of your faucet, then you'll have found a manufacturer of the replacement valve stems too. Or just replace the whole faucet to be sure.
Some vibration can be absorbed by adding hammer arrestors to the pipes inside the wall. But not much in this case as the vibration is within the faucet. Besides I guess the wall can't be opened without tearing out the tilework/porcelain backsplash, or coming from the other side.
Perfectly good true reproductions of that second type can be had at reasonable prices. Same mould and everything. Even my local Home Depot clone has them. Brands like Kohler also make them, but these cost many times more and are no truer to the originals. Search "wall mount faucet", if you have what I think you have.
I'm guessing the valve stems were sometime replaced with ones not quite compatible, and that's why water isn't passing nicely. The solution is to change them for the proper ones. Normally I would take an old valve stem off the faucet to the store for comparison but that isn't possible. If you can find an exact reproduction of your faucet, then you'll have found a manufacturer of the replacement valve stems too. Or just replace the whole faucet to be sure.
Some vibration can be absorbed by adding hammer arrestors to the pipes inside the wall. But not much in this case as the vibration is within the faucet. Besides I guess the wall can't be opened without tearing out the tilework/porcelain backsplash, or coming from the other side.
majakdragon
03-04-05, 05:43 AM
If you can remove the handles you will probably find a bad washer on the end of the stem. This is what causes the noise. It will vibrate and it's like blowing on a reed. Washers can be bought all over. Good luck.
jeastith
03-04-05, 01:01 PM
yes, the faucet comes through holes in the actual sink. I would like to check on the washer, but not sure h0w to go about removing a handle on the faucet. Any tips?
majakdragon
03-04-05, 01:18 PM
Gonna have to take a guess on this one. Turn off the water supply under the sink. On the end of the handle there should be a cap (usually has an H or C on it). This cap being so old, probably screws into the handle. Look for ridges on the cap. Turn the cap counterclockwise and it SHOULD unscrew. Under the cap there should be a screw that holds the handle on. Remove the screw (careful not to drop it down the sink). Pull the handle off. With the age of the faucet, this may take a little work, especially if they have not been removed before. Then remove the cover that goes up against the sink. You can now slide the handle back on and turn the handle to remove the stem. There may be a nut there also that has to be removed to let the stem come out. This is all guesses as I don't know what your faucet looks like. This is the typical way they go. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Kobuchi
03-04-05, 04:22 PM
Hot washers wear quicker than cold, but you may as well replace both now. Then again these wall-mount faucets often had their local shutoffs buried and forgotten in the joists below, so just stopping the water may be an adventure. When working an old shutoff have a wrench handy to tighten the packing nut (clockwise), in case it leaks.
I'd check the faucet valve seats too. When you have the valve stem out, use some paper towels to wick standing water out of the opening, so you can see them. They're the shiny-rimmed holes the washer normally covers. Sometimes the washer goes because the metal seat it rubs on every time you close the valve is grinding it away. In that case the replacement won't last long. If the seats don't look and feel smooth do post back.
My own theory about the vibration is that a little play (e.g. wobble) in the valve stem allows the stem to vibrate, not just the washer. In the process of replacing a washer, we re-tighten the valve assembly so may indirectly solve the problem, for a while.
If there's a lot of wobble when turned between full-open and full-shut (when it vibrates) and the valve actually slops around so much the flow speeds up, then replacing the entire valve unit with a tight new one is the direct solution. Replacement parts may be hard to locate. Alternately, packing with pipe dope and new graphite can stabilise the valve temporarily, as can simply removing it and then putting it back with a good heave on the wrench.
I'd check the faucet valve seats too. When you have the valve stem out, use some paper towels to wick standing water out of the opening, so you can see them. They're the shiny-rimmed holes the washer normally covers. Sometimes the washer goes because the metal seat it rubs on every time you close the valve is grinding it away. In that case the replacement won't last long. If the seats don't look and feel smooth do post back.
My own theory about the vibration is that a little play (e.g. wobble) in the valve stem allows the stem to vibrate, not just the washer. In the process of replacing a washer, we re-tighten the valve assembly so may indirectly solve the problem, for a while.
If there's a lot of wobble when turned between full-open and full-shut (when it vibrates) and the valve actually slops around so much the flow speeds up, then replacing the entire valve unit with a tight new one is the direct solution. Replacement parts may be hard to locate. Alternately, packing with pipe dope and new graphite can stabilise the valve temporarily, as can simply removing it and then putting it back with a good heave on the wrench.
jeastith
03-09-05, 07:16 PM
Thanks! That was a much easier fix than I thought. We took off the handle, and the washer inside was totally falling apart. We replaced it, and now the squealing sound and the vibration are completely gone. The handle still won't quite stay in place, but it moves much more slowly now. Something still isn't perfect in there, but what a vast improvement. I appreciate the help :)