How do I replace foot valve

[bobbob]

I have a gould jet pump in my basement that draws water from my well which is about 150' deep. I am quite certain that the foot valve is nonfunctioning because the pump was coming on every 10 min. and we eliminated the possibility of a leaking toilet etc.
I contacted a plumber and without any thought, he wanted to replace my perfectly good pump with a submersible and solve the problem that way.
Can't I just replace the foot valve without the expense of a new pump.
The well is old so I would also like to replace the plastic pipe that goes down the well.
I am not known for being handy around the house, but this doesn't sound too difficult. Should I attempt it myself and if so- how should I proceed? :coffee:

[nomind]

Hi bobbob,
- Plumbers and well advice -hmmmm----
First, here's an easy way we 'well guys' always tell if the footvalve or any other fitting down the well is leaking. Make up a small fitting to fit where the prime plug goes. It should be a T with a gauge on one side, a snifter(air valve like on a bike tire)on the other, and a nipple to fit the pump on the final one. (this can all be put together for less than $10 and may save you pulling a lot of pipe up) Now, tape it and screw in, when tight pump in about 60 psi. and watch it for 15 minutes. If it moves you have a leak -simple !
If you do have to change the footvalve it's really simple, just cut it off and fit a good quality Brass footvalve, held on with SS hose clamps. If you're going to change the pipe, go to your plumbing wholesaler(or maybe HD) and get 'Pumpdrop' poly/rubber tube. Comes in 300' rolls , but most will sell less and charge a bit higher. DON'T put it on solid plastic or PVC pipe. It may seem cheaper, but will definitely cause problems if you have to pull it up again.
As you have a jetpump, the end is likely not very deep in the well, for a single tube, 25' is the norm. For a double tube 75' is norm. :cool:

Do it Right - Do it once.

[bobbob]

Hello Nomind

I live in a rural area and most stores are a fair drive so before I run out and get the parts to make the test component you described I thought I would give you a little more info and see if it is still necessary to do that.
I know the leak isn't in the house because I shut off the valve leading from the pump to the house and the pump still ran every 10min. . The clincher was when we lost power due to a storm last weekend we also lost our prime. That has never happend with this 2 tube pump.
Should I still do the test you described?

I am aware of someone replacing the foot valve many years ago and snapping off the pipe in the well so it is not its' original length. Would you advise replacing the current pipe with a matching length or going a little longer. I have no idea how much broke off in the well. (i am assuming the brittle aspect is the reason you don't reccommend plastic pipe)

After the work is done, is there anything I should know about priming the jet pump? I am sure it will take a lot of water.

Thanks for the priveledge of tapping into your knowldge.
bobbob

[nomind]

Hi bobbob,
- it does sound as if you have a leak down the well, (ie footvalve, or cracked pipe) so if you're fairly certain you want to pull the pipe out we'll find out for sure. The problem you mentioned about "and snapping off the pipe in the well" , is precisely because they used pvc or similar hard pipe. As I mentioned the length of pipe has to match the pump. It's best to pull up and see exactly what you have down there. Your pump may have the ejector down the well. If it does, the two tubes will be dissimilar diameters (usually 1" and 1 1/4") The problem may also be in this ejector.
If you even have a minimum of mechanical knowledge, this is not a hard job.
I will let you know at each step what to do. :cool:

Do it Right - Do it once.

[bobbob]

Goodmorning nomind,

I can't say that I am certain that I want to pull the pipe - I just don't have much choice. As far as having a minimum amount of mechanical knowledge - I am probably the reason the word minimum was invented!

That being said, the pump is 3/4 horse and the two tubes are dissimilar diameters. The outside measurement of the top one appears to be 1 3/4" and the bottom one is 1 3/8". This is the first time I have heard about an "ejector", but that probably comes as no surprise to you.(LOL) I also have a third tube (about 1/2" diameter) coming thru the foundation into the house that isn't attached to anything. It was suggested that that might be there for wiring purposes should the system ever be changed to a submersible pump.

I suppose it is also possibble that the leak could be between the well cap and the house, but there is no way to know that without digging up the yard. (it sure would be nice if this wasn't the middle of winter) It seems like pulling the pipe is the best 1st step.

[nomind]

Hi bobbob,
- you definitely have a deep well jet pump. There's a possibility that you have a leak between wellhead and pump, but these are generally apparent by boggy ground where the leak is. This type of pump is very susceptible to ANY air leaks in the pipes, sometimes even a loose hoseclamp can be the fault. This is why we use the pressure test, generally we see water or hear air coming out where the leak is.
Here's a site that explains well pumps in general terms, you'll find it interesting; http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/how_it_works/1275136.html?page=3&c=y

Take a look at that. I'll get back to you later-have to work now. :cool:

Do it Right -Do it once.

[bobbob]

You were right nomind...

I did find that site interesting. It was informative and easily understood. My system is definitely the "double drop jet pump".
The submersible seems to be more efficient, but I like the accesability of the pump I have now should it require repairs. In 32 years this is only the 3rd time it has needed service. If I pull the pipe should I consider changing to submersible or stick with what seems to have worked well all this time? What's your preference- I value your input.

I have to admit that I think I may be getting in over my head so to speak. I am leaning toward hiring a "well guy" and have him properly test the system and repair it.

[Gary Slusser]

If the pump is 32 years old, that's why the plumber suggested replacing it, and a submersiible is a much better choice than any type jet pump. If true then I agree with the plumber since you have to get into the well anyway. Submersible pumps usually are more trouble free than jet pumps and they move water much more efficiently.

To replace the jet with a submersilbe, you'd use the 1" line for water and the 1.25" as conduit for the electric. And you'd block off the 1.25" part of the pitless or dual hole sanitary well seal/cap. If the wellhead is buried or in a pit, the casing should be brought up to 12" - 18" above grade and a pitless adapter installed below the frost line if any and then a casing cap installed. We do that here with a Fernco fitting and same diameter sch 40 PVC as the casing.

That 1/2" line is more than likely for air flow into the well because you probably have the well head buried or in a pit, right?

Gary
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Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2

[nomind]

Hi Bobbob,
- well, Gary said it all, and I completely agree with everything he pointed out. I also would have suggested a Sub, if I'd known your pump was that old ! A sub is far more trouble free and they commonly last 20 years. :cool:

Do it Right - Do it once.

[bobbob]

Hi nomind

I guess my typing should have been more detailed. The well and "lines" are about 32 years old, the pump is about 15yrs and the water storage tank about 9yrs.
The well cap is already about 12" above the gound and the lines are attached with a pitless adapter about 4' down the well casing. (I know because I pulled the cap yesterday)

As far as the plumber goes- All I was able to get out was "I believe my foot valve needs to be replaced" and he immediately had me replacing the entire system complete with a rough estimate of the cost. He just seemed too eager with out knowing anything about my system and I was afraid I was being taken for a ride.

Pulling the well cap and seeing the pitless adapter about 4' down was what got me realizing I don't have the equipment or skill to do this properly myself. I respect your knowledge & value your oppinion so if you still think replacing the system with a submersible is the way to go I will call the "well/pump guy" with that in mind. (unless of course you are planning to vacation in southern Maine this weekend- I can wait (LOL))

I hope you don't feel I've waisted your time getting to this point. I've learned a lot from you. Thank you Gary- your input has been helpful as "well".

[Gary Slusser]

You're welcome but now I'd suggest replacing the foot valve and waiting until the next problem and then go with a submersible pump. Unless your jet pump is not providing the pressure it used to. Or, unless the drop pipe has to be replaced, then I suggest the new submersible.

Gary
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Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2

[bobbob]

Thanx for bothering with me one more time Gary
We've been without water for a little more than a week now and I didn't feel I could wait any longer for a reply so I called the "pump guy" yesterday. Based on previous threads, he is arriving in about 3 hours to put in a new submersible. He needed to know by last night which way I wanted to fix it in order to know what to bring for parts. It wouldn't be fair to change my mind when he arrives so I guess I'm buying a new system after all.
At least my original gut feeling that the cheaper fix was all I needed was somewhat validated. If I had given better information in the 1st place we might have come to that conclusion sooner. Oh "well".

You guys have been great and I appreciate how you use your free time to help the rest of us. I love the DIY web site and hope you don't mind helping me out again if you see my name pop up in the future.