Walls and Ceilings - fixing holes in double drywall walls
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Mr_Funkenstien
01-26-05, 01:27 PM
we are fixing up our dining room and took some wood paneling off the lower half of the wall. behind the wood paneling are holes from where an electrician wired some new plugs into the next room and a hold were an old vent was. the walls are two pieces of drywall with a thin layer of plaster on top of each. what would be the best way to go about fixing the holes. considering that inorder to match the thickness of the wall I would need to put to pieces of cut drywall on top of each other?
thanks in advance.
brian
thanks in advance.
brian
IHI
01-26-05, 09:28 PM
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=198349
Just gave similair advice in this forum in that thread above.
Just gave similair advice in this forum in that thread above.
Mr_Funkenstien
01-27-05, 07:09 AM
thanks for the advice.
a couple quick questions...
A. This might be an obvious question but I'll ask it anyway...is there a problem with using regular Drywall mud and putting it on a plaster wall? Which brand would you recoomend?
B. Would a board that is 1" thick work? or should it be thicker?
a couple quick questions...
A. This might be an obvious question but I'll ask it anyway...is there a problem with using regular Drywall mud and putting it on a plaster wall? Which brand would you recoomend?
B. Would a board that is 1" thick work? or should it be thicker?
IHI
01-27-05, 08:18 AM
1. Using regular mud will work fine, it's done everyday. I personally prefer to use quik set mud, "hot mud" since I can get dry times as quick as 5 miniutes or as long as 210 minutes, job kinda dictates what I use, but for patch jobs I dont wanna be there any longer than necessary so I usally use the 5 minute mud. The hot mud comes in bags you must mix with water yourself as it is just powder in a bag. If you choose to go this route DO NOT mix with anything other than ice cold water-warm or hot water will speed setting times 4 fold. and since your new to this a 20-45 minutes set time might be the best range. This hot mud, quick set stuff does not shrink and crack like the pre-mixed stuff-another reason I like it so much, you can fill big voids/divites and it will not settle.
2. I just use a peice of 3/4" (1x) it's just a temporary peice used to anchor the drywall filler inplace until you can mud it. Once the mud sets-up that will have all the holding power needed to lock the filler drywall into place. It will kind of be like the old lathe/plaster installs. The mud will get between the existing wall and new filler, once the mud sets up it creates it's own "key way" so when cured it's "locked" into place.
The lightweight pre-mixed filler is pretty easy to sand, but again you have to deal with the shrinkage/cracking so it usually takes a coat or two more depending on application AND applicator:) than if you used the hot mud which IMO does'nt sand too bad, but not as easily as the pre-mixed lgihtweight stuff.
If you apply the mud right there really should be very little sanding involved at all-other than feathering the edges in around the mud patch into the existing wall. After the first coat or two has dried I'll use my mud knife to "cut/knockdown" any ridges left that I missed/or left when applying the mud. This is ALOT faster than sanding and creates no dusty mess. Using course screen sanding pad will take down the mudded area really quick and make alot of dust. Then you can use regular sanding paper also sold in the drywall area of your homecenter in a medium to fine grit to smooth the mudded area in preparation for texture/paint. It's all very simple, just messy-especially when sanding!! so if you can quarantine the area off your working in, it will prevent the dust from finding it's way to the other side of the house covering everything in it's path!!
2. I just use a peice of 3/4" (1x) it's just a temporary peice used to anchor the drywall filler inplace until you can mud it. Once the mud sets-up that will have all the holding power needed to lock the filler drywall into place. It will kind of be like the old lathe/plaster installs. The mud will get between the existing wall and new filler, once the mud sets up it creates it's own "key way" so when cured it's "locked" into place.
The lightweight pre-mixed filler is pretty easy to sand, but again you have to deal with the shrinkage/cracking so it usually takes a coat or two more depending on application AND applicator:) than if you used the hot mud which IMO does'nt sand too bad, but not as easily as the pre-mixed lgihtweight stuff.
If you apply the mud right there really should be very little sanding involved at all-other than feathering the edges in around the mud patch into the existing wall. After the first coat or two has dried I'll use my mud knife to "cut/knockdown" any ridges left that I missed/or left when applying the mud. This is ALOT faster than sanding and creates no dusty mess. Using course screen sanding pad will take down the mudded area really quick and make alot of dust. Then you can use regular sanding paper also sold in the drywall area of your homecenter in a medium to fine grit to smooth the mudded area in preparation for texture/paint. It's all very simple, just messy-especially when sanding!! so if you can quarantine the area off your working in, it will prevent the dust from finding it's way to the other side of the house covering everything in it's path!!