Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Staining Maple Floors

I sanded my 1920's vintage bungalow maple floors, and I was just informed that it is not a good idea to stain maple floors because maple doesn't stain well?

I had really hoped to stain them a cherry color, but now I'm having second thoughts? Anyone have any insight or tips regaurding this issue?

Due to the extremely tight cellular structure and variable grain patterns inherent in northern hard maple, the Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association (MFMA) does not recommend staining or bleaching maple strip flooring under any circumstances.

While small areas of individual flooring strips may accept stain without difficulty, it has been our experience that much of the maple surface will appear uneven and "blotchy" following the application of most stains or bleaching agents.

You can contact the MFMA's Technical Director at 847/480-9138 for additional information.

Minwax claims that their pre-stain wood conditioner tends to resolve the problems with staining woods that tend to absorb stain unevenly. All wood species tend to produce color variances when staining. Softer areas of the wood and end grain surfaces will accept more stain and often appear darker than other areas. This is a natural reaction when finishing wood products, and potential variances in color cannot be controlled.

Hard maple takes lighter stains better, but darker stains will tend to exhibit uneven levels of penetration. Soft maple takes stain more readily than does hard, and the sapwood has more gray hues, which are more visible in certain light when given a light stain. Soft maple is often stained to look like cherry, walnut and other more expensive hardwoods. Because soft maple mellows (darkens) at a much slower rate than cherry wood, the color will maintain its original appearance longer.

If you go over to the flooring sand & finisher message boards, all the guys over there, suggest tining the seal coat, instead of trying to stain maple.

Personally, I have never tried it, but it come highly recommended by the pros.

We usually tint the finish rather than stain the wood. There are goods and bads to that approach. You get a consitent color but damage to the floor seems to show more and it is more difficult to repair. I still would suggest just going natural, that's how the wood was made.
Bryan