free standing vs. house attached deck

[tom2002]

Hello:

I'm considering building a deck. I have the following options for framing.

1- Build free standing
2 - Attach to house bandboard (require removing the vinyl siding and flashing).
3. - Attach to 6" poured concrete foundation (right below the bandboard/siding).

This will be a relatively large deck (55"X 13"). I plan to use the Evergrain product for floor, stair, and rail tops.

I obviously want a strudy deck..that looks nice as well.

I would appreciate any comments...

Thahks
tom

[homebild]

Fastening the deck ledger to the concrete foundation with through bolts drilled completely through the 6" concrete would provide the sturdiest, most economical and most easily weather proofed deck...but any of the above methods will work.

The only limiting factor regarding fastening the deck to the concrete foundation is if by so doing, it creates a step from the top of the door sill to the top of the deck surface that is too high to conform to your building code.

But this can be adjusted for by installing an intermediate step.

[lefty]

Like homebild said, any of the 3 methods will work. My preference would be to go either free standing, or attach the ledger with throughbolts through the concrete stem wall. Just watch the height of the step from the threshold to the decking. If it's more than 8", you'll need a 3' X 3' landing (minimum) at each door, down a few inches (up to 8") then a step down to the deck (again, maximum 8".)

[tom2002]

I would prefer a "Free standing" deck, however, I've heard that it can "wobble" unless properly braced/constructed.

Any suggestions?

[lefty]

"I would prefer a "Free standing" deck, however, I've heard that it can "wobble" unless properly braced/constructed."

So properly brace and construct it. I just finished a 3 level free-standing deck that is the entire 60' length of the back of the house. The upper section (21' long and 8' above grade) projects 12' out, the mid (40+ feet long) and lowest levels project out 16'. (The lowest level is mostly back under the upper level.)

The key is the cross-bracing of the posts. I used 2X4's for that, from the bottom of the closest post to the house to the top of the farthest post from the house, and alternated at each row of posts. (Those are the braces that are perpendicular to the house.) For the rows of posts parallel to the house, same thing -- alternate what runs from the top of the post to the bottom of the second or third post away. You are forming a bunch of "X's" under the deck with the cross-bracing, and spanning 3 or 4 posts to accomplish it.

If the deck is less than 4' high, there is no reason why you can't do the cross-bracing with 1X4's. Just put 4 16d nails into each post, or at the girder at the upper end of the brace.

[tom2002]

thank u very much Lefty..

[Pendragon]

You should also keep in mind that fastening the deck to the home may involve additional permitting concerns, which may then include additional construction requirements.

I'd go with the free standing deck, and as noted, built properly, it won't wobble.

If it's going to cover the siding, I'd remove the siding and waterproof the underlayment, then trim the siding around the deck where it meets the home. It will look attached, and there won't be a big gap between the deck framing the the siding (good place for spiders and other critters to set up home).

[tom2002]

Lefty and others:

One more question....in lieu of the post to post "X" bracing you suggest, our local bldg code requires us to do the following bracing method:

For posts parallel to house: use 2X4 to connect top of post to beam supported ..this forms a "Y" look and will allow me to access area under deck.

For posts perpendicular to house, use 2X4 to connect top of post to JOIST above, again using 2X4s bolted to both members.

My deck is 6" off the ground.....what do you think of this bracing method? Have you used it before? If you suggestion is structurally superior, I can talk to the bldg insepctor to see if they will allow me to use it.

In either case, the 2X4 is bolted 2" from top of the post to either the beam or joist..

Thanks
Tom

[lefty]

Tom2002,

"My deck is 6" off the ground" -- you're going to have to reason with the inspector on this one.

OK -- the "Y" look gives you access under the deck, but access for WHAT??? Snakes. lizards, and spiders -- but not too many humans are going to get under a deck that is 6" off the ground!!

And why do they think that the joists are going to occur in line with the posts?? Once in a while they will, but that is purely accidental.

I would call for a framing inspection on this one, just so the inspector can see that what is being "called for" probably isn't going to work in this case.