Anyone refinished after RL "river rock" paint

[kimeyers]

Before we moved in, because I was very pregnant, for the first time ever I used "professional" painters. They suggested "river rock" for the room where the dry wall was uneven because of the removal of grass cloth wallpaper. Unfortunately, either they didn't do it right or the product is sub par. I don't know if they didn't leave a wet edge, or if it is expected, but where the roller overlapped there is a definite line of demarcation. I can't stand this, and want to redo it.

Of course, the technique I'm planning has NO texture in it--although the glaze should hide any imperfections.

SO, do I need to sand down the "river rock" or are the RL claims true? One of the pieces of literature says all I need to do is prime with RL primer. I fear that the primer won't work, and it will only make it harder to remove the texture. Any thoughts?

K

[prowallguy]

Not sure what the RL primer says it will do, but know for darn sure it won't remove/cover up the texture. Sanding or skim coating with JC is the only options I know of.

[kimeyers]

Prowallguy--
Couple of questions re: removal. I read somewhere that wallpaper stripper will remove texture. I don't see how unless there was a layer of wallpaper, but wondered whether you had heard this.

Also, the problem with the paint now seems to be lap marks. I don't necessarily hate the texture, just the lap marks. I was wondering if another coat of paint would cover that? Or would that just make it more of a b*&% to get the texture off. The walls are in bad shape under the texture because the grass cloth wallpaper I removed was attached directly to the wallboard and made a mess.

Thanks for all your helpful answers!

K

[prowallguy]

I read somewhere that wallpaper stripper will remove texture.
Never heard of that before, and very doubtful it would work.
Also, the problem with the paint now seems to be lap marks.
That seems to be the main problem with this stuff. I personally have never used it. A couple good painters I know have applied it before, one using a sprayer, another using just a brush, making X's on the wall, about 3 coats worth until it looked uniform.
I was wondering if another coat of paint would cover that?
Probably not. Maybe 3-4 more coats, all applied in different directions, to help hide the lap marks. But yes, it will obviously make it harder to remove/cover up when that look is out.

IMO, the best way would be to use a stiff 6" putty knife, scrape off as much as possible, and skim coat the walls with joint compound. This way you start off with a fresh, new, flat substrate, and can proceed from there. I know, it sucks, but its the result of innapropriate application, and fixing someone else's mistakes are always the worst.

[MarthaRae]

Just painted my daughters living room with the RL river rock and know exactly what your talking about. The trouble is that you have to work it very quickly to blend in the edge work with the brush and then roll the wall out, going over the brush strokes with the roller to have uniform texture. My daughter tried to help, between coats when I wasn't there and as a result I had to put 3-4 coats to cover up the lap line like you said. Some of it is still slightly visible but could be mistaken to shading. I just know what it is. If you like the texture, I'd say try another coat and work it quickly. The brush put the river rock on heavier, that's the problem, but it you roll over it as far as possible and as quickly as possible, it lessens the laps. Otherwise, I think it can be just painted over with a quality paint which will still show the texture through it. It also will make it last longer, since RL scratches off easily.

[Rainshowers]

Ok, i don't know anything. I'm a new-be here...
But, how about this idea...

Take som scrap plywood and paint it with your left over paint, purposefully make that lap mark on the test plywood. Then try just priming it and painting it. If it doesnt work, then try your next possible solution on a piece of scrap plywood.

Oh, I also read about Flotrol. It's supposed to be like a paint additive that makes uneven stuff become even. I just read about it relative to cabinet painting and getting even finishes.

Maybe try that test with Flotrol added to the primer, that is if the Flotrol can says it can be added to primer.

Any rate, Good Luck! :coffee:

[the bob]

Flotrol will make it easier to work with if you considered spraying or wall brushing. ( HALF MOONS NOT X'S ) .Flotrol slows down the paints drying properties giving you more time to brush and keep a wet edge, or if youre spraying it will enable the paint to dry slower giving you a smoother finish.Back to the topic , always use the manufacturers recommendations.I dont use their (RL) products, so I cant say for sure what will happen.Flotrol is not the answer unless you want to redo the room (wall brush or spray )with the R.L. product. Good luck.

[VPlasterman]

Sand finish is a texture (ONLY) it was never intended to "HIDE" flaws in walls.
Sand finish including RL's must be applied to a near perfect wall. And in addition you should prime prior to most applications. And it is best with River Rock, to tint the primer to the base shade of the material.
Note: primer must also be solid,uniform application or you will see it telegraphing.
Note: River rock like most sand textures are a critical type coating. We do Venetian plaster everyday up to 20 coats. And I consider River Rock to be harder to achieve a uniform finish!