Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers - Adding a Humidifier

Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.




View Full Version : Adding a Humidifier


Joe.Carrick
01-14-05, 02:50 PM
We have a 1400 sqft log home at Big Bear Lake, CA. The Altitude is 6500 ft and the temperature range is from 15-90 degrees F.

The home has a horizontal FAU located next to the WH in the underfloor area. We will be adding about 280 sqft and will either extend the existing ductwork or add another small FAU in the attic of the addition, depending on available space to run the ducts.

Because of the altitude and the temperature ranges, humidification is highly desired and needed - particularly for a log structure. What would be the best way to do this? It appears that most moderators here recommend not using a spray system because of minerals in the water. However, I have also read that other types can become contaminated with bacteria.

What should I do?


Jay11J
01-14-05, 03:18 PM
I would not suggest anything to the furnace if it's up in the attic where it's not heated, and same for the crawl space.

If the area gets freezing, the lines and other water parts will freeze, and you will have a mess.

Just go with a free standing unit in the living space of your home.

Joe.Carrick
01-14-05, 03:34 PM
Not an acceptable solution. This is a vacation home and we are not there to constantly fill such systems. When we arrive for a weekend the humidity is way down and it takes 2-3 days to get it up to an acceptable level.

I have a return air duct from the 2nd floor which runs down thru a chase which is adjacent to an interior hallway on the 1st floor. Currently this is a flexible duct but I could put in a section of metal duct where I could add the humidifier. There are also water lines located in this area and the hot water line is on a recirc system.

This location is about 35 feet from the FAU but is the only return because the home is designed as virtually totally open with high beamed ceiling and the 2nd floor is a loft sleeping area. Since the heat rises we have 2 ceiling fans that run almost always when we are there and the return air grill is in the loft to help equalize the temperature thruout the home.


Jay11J
01-14-05, 09:08 PM
Are you planning on using a by-pass system? If so, it has to be right next to the furance itself. it can't be installed at a remote location. Unless you have a supply duct work right next to the return in this area you're talking about.

A powered unit is not suggested at the return since it need the warm air for it to run right.

When you said this is a weekend home, how low is the temp set at when you are not there?

Joe.Carrick
01-14-05, 10:04 PM
If I were to put the humidifer at the location I suggested, there are a few small smaller supply ducts close by that could be used but I suspect the air volume would be insufficient.

I'm not sure if a by-pass system would be required. I've seen some advertised that inject the moisture into the return air stream (not the spray type) and don't rely on the bypass. What's the downside/advantage of one over the other?

We leave the thermostat set for 56-60 degrees minimum when we are not there. We have a very efficient metal fireplace that we often use for heating as well, but the FAU runs on a regular basis. The logs act as a heat sink and we have generous southwest facing windows which absorb the morning sun, so leaving the thermostat at that temperature doesn't result in too much natural gas usage.

I'm beginning to think that installing the humidifier at the FAU is the better choice and connecting it to the hot water recirc loop. This should prevent any sort of freeze problem. Since both the FAU and the WH are at this location and the crawl space area is directly below the main living area with all of the supply ducts in the crawl space it remains relatively warm. I doubt that it ever gets below 35-40 degrees. Also, the crawlspace walls are all 8" thick solid concrete.

Jay11J
01-15-05, 04:25 AM
If you know for a fact that the crawl space has not vents to allow outside air to be exposed, then I would add a small supply vent in that are to keep the area warmer if you are goign to install a by-pass unit.

Do you have a floor drain for this unit? will need one.

Jay11J
01-15-05, 09:19 AM
Did some looking around I see April Air has this model 350/360 (http://aprilair.com/product.asp?ID=FBEB12213A034BF8B488ADBA514A15E1&categoryID=F16F78145781484A8A7C756B87F43AB3&catID=)

This may work best for you.

Ed Imeduc
01-15-05, 06:21 PM
http://www.waltonlabs.com/WF-225.html

I think this is the kind that would work best for you here. It would just go in the cold air duct by the furnace .There in the crawl space. Dont need a return or bypass for it . They work great have put many in. Very easy to clean. Do run hot water to it works best. You dont need any kind of drain for it.You said fire place. I hope you have a fresh air intake for it there. Cause if you burn it and dont supply air for it it will suck all the humidity and warm air right out of the home there.

ED ;)