Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - Need help in selecting security system for 1915 era house (currently gutted)

Hi:

I would like to impose on your collective knowledge for help in putting a security system in my house. At this stage, there is no insulation and no sheetrock. Currently, I am running RG6 and Cat 5E for the voice, data, and video systems from my central closet to all of the various jacks in the house.

I am thinking about adding a wired alarm system to my house and would like to DIY as much as possible. I have been purchasing items from ADI which is a wholesaler of alarm and wiring products.

The house is two story. The upstairs has an office and two bedrooms. There are three sets of two windows each upstairs (six windows). The upstairs ceilings are nine feet.

After extensive tearing down of walls, the downstairs is mostly open now with a master bedroom, and seven other rooms. The ceilings are 12 feet tall in this 1915 era house. Nine windows are in the main part of the house. There is an enclosed porch that has an additional 15 or so windows. The house has two entrance doors.

The basement has two windows and two doors. There is no access upstairs but there will be tool storage down there.

Since the walls are open, I was planning on prewiring everything that I can think that I would possibly ever use including exterior CCTV.

I am interested in any suggestions that you all may have.

One thing that immediately comes to mind is wire.

With security cables, do I have to be careful with how close they are to the AC power cables or data cables?

For window sensors (GRI 2020-12), I was planning to use 22/2. For the sensors and and keypads, I plan to use 22/4.

I would like to tie in the smoke detectors, exterior flood lights to the system, and possibly have a heat sensor over the furnace.

Do you have any suggestions for models/manufacturers that you like?

Any other words of wisdom?

Thank you in advance for responding.

>With security cables, do I have to be careful with how close they are to the AC power cables or data cables?

Try not to run them parallel and close proximity to ac power cables for long distances (more than a couple of feet).

>For window sensors (GRI 2020-12), I was planning to use 22/2. For the sensors and and keypads, I plan to use 22/4.

>I would like to tie in the smoke detectors, exterior flood lights to the system, and possibly have a heat sensor over the furnace.

You want a 4 conductor from the panel to the first smoke, then from there to the second, and so-on. Most new panels support 2 wire smokes, but sometimes the only option is to go the 4-wire route. It's better to wire accordingly.

You will find the system type smokes more expensive, but of far better quality than the hardware store models.

Mr. Ron:

Thanks for the advice. I have been trying to route the alarm cables past all of the AC cables, I think I have been successful. I guess we will know when I select a system and plug it in. :)

Speaking of selecting a system, on another thread someone mentioned the HAI Omnipro II. Is there a place where I can download the installation manual on-line? Does anyone have postive or negitive experience with this unit?

Thanks again.

ADI has a nice 20ps with touch screen kit for about $200. I have installed several and the features are great. In addition, the keypads are small and sleak looking. The keypads are the 6170. Just an Idea.

Two years later, I am now the proud owner of a Vista 20P with a 6160V keypad and assorted sensors. In fact, everything is sitting spread out upon my dining room table while I sit shell shocked and wondering how to put it all together. :wall:

The bright side is that I think I have the yard sign working correctly.

For everything else, I am going to need advice.

Here are the components that I have:
• Vista 20P and 6160V keypad
• 8 zone expander (wired)
• Wireless receiver
• Key FOB
• DT-7435 PIR/Kband qty. 4
• FG1625RFM Glass break qty. 5
• Two Tone Siren indoor
• Two Tone Outdoor Siren
• Strobe
• Battery

I have two conductor wire home run to all doors and windows. I have four conductor wire home run to the motions and glass breaks.

Right now, the wireless will only be used for a Key Fob for my wife.

I have enough zones to have the glass breaks and motions on single zones for the areas that they protect. I will group the windows by area, and have separate zones for front and back doors.

Goals:
To have a functional, robust system that will work and not have false alarms.
To have a system that is installed using best practices (standard conventions) so a technician coming in to work on it will not have to guess or excessively troubleshoot my work in case I am not around.

Basic Assumptions:

Everything is normally closed
Yellow wire = “High”
Green wire= “Low”
Red wire = “+”
Black wire= “-“
2K EOL Resistor = (red-black-red with Gold)
EOL Resistors will be at the EOL, not in the box.
I can solder
I have a glass break tester

What really locked me up was wiring. What color goes where and how it should be done. I shut down for a while and then hit the computer for research. I would like feedback on whether or not I got it correct, and if I should do something differently.

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The motion sensors (DT-7435)

The terminals are:

Tamper_________Alarm_______________Power
(T) (T)____(NO) (C ) (EOL) (NC)______(V-) (V+)

I assume that the red wire goes to V+
The black wire goes to V-
Green to C
Yellow to NC
EOL Resistor 2K (red-black-red and Gold band) between NC and EOL.

Is this the correct way to wire them?

Just for my information, what are the Tamper terminals used for? Does it require additional wire runs to use them?

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FG-1625RFM Glassbreak Detector

Terminals
Control Panel Power
(V+) (V-) (NC) (C)

I plan to wire:
Red to (V+) Black to (V-) Yellow to (NC) Green to (C)

The Yellow wire will have a 2K resistor on it. I plan to solder the resistor to the wire and then apply heat shrink over the connection. The free lead of the resistor will go to the screw terminal.

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Door Contacts

Red --->to contact---> 2K resistor --->Black--->panel

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Window Contacts

I am assuming that where multiple windows are in a single zone, it will be wired in series.

This would be
red--->window 1 contact --->black—>red -->window 2 contact-->black-->red --->window 3 contact-->2K resistor ---> black--->to panel

I can put the 2K resistor at the last contact since I have only wired for the contacts and have not yet installed them. I plan to solder and wrap with heat shrink.

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Sorry to ask all of the questions, I have been searching the web for simple instructions. So far, I have not found ones simple enough for me.

If there is anything else I should know, please chime in.

Thanks for reading through this lengthy post.

There are no "simple" instructions. They are all written with an assumption of either factory training, or basic electrical nomenclature familiarity. Not a dis on any DIY, but that's the facts.

Basically you have it pretty well worked out. The wire colors are pretty much personal choice, as long as you are consistant. As it happens, you picked the combo that 90% of installers follow.

Those tamper terminals are optional. In a high security application where someone might actually try to sabotage a detector, they have a place. In a residential install, if someone has enough access to take the device apart, them they are already past your security. Don't worry about them.

Soldering resistors is a little overkill ("b" connectors work fine), but you can be sure of your connection, so go for it.

If you are prewiring for cameras, I would recommend the siamese cable with the rg59 and 22-2 in one wire. Also, the compression bnc connectors are great.