Need expert opinion for first timer (MOD:Kenmore)

[axemat]

Greetings to all,
I've been turning the hot water on and off for the holidays. Now that we are back, we've been loosing our hot water during the past three days to the point that I'd say we have not more as of tonight.

Here are my observations:
1) Electricity reaches the tank: the small light is on on the tank and my fuses are good.
2) Lower thermostat and element look like new (must have been changed before I bought the house)
3) Upper thermostat looks aged but fine
4) Upper element seems to be leaking as insulation around it is wet and there is some brown corrosion; what seems to be a ceramic ring ontop the element housing is cracked and has some yelowish deposit on it.

It seems trivial that the upper element is the culprit but thought I should ask someone who knows first. What do you think?

Where do I get the part number? Should I look for continuity?

Electricity is off until I'll solve it ...

Can anyone give me some directions as to how to replace the element? Some kinda walk-through? I do not see any screws anywhere ;o(

Here are the specs on the electric water heater:
Manu: Kenmore
Mod: C643-732602
Serial: 0291J23131
Item: 90164 1202 9616

Thank you so much for you time,

Axemat

[Mike Swearingen]

Here's how to check and change an electric water heater element.
To test an element, turn OFF the water heater power at the breaker panel (should be a double 30 amp breaker, but may be a 20 amp). To make absolutely certain that you've tripped the right breaker, test the wires with a voltage meter for safety.
Disconnect the two wires to the element and test the screws with an ohm meter for continuity. No continuity, replace the element.
If your heater elements don't have four bolts holding them in, they will be the threaded base screw-in type. You will probably need an element socket wrench (1.5" X 5") to remove it. It has holes for a screwdriver for leverage, but you can turn the socket with a pipe wrench.
If your leaking element tests O.K., you may only need to change the rubber element gasket, which you can buy separately. A gasket comes with each new element.
To change the upper element (power still off), turn off the cold water to the heater, attach a hose to the drain spigot at the bottom of the heater, open the T&P valve at the top of the heater for air, and let it drain down below the upper element level.
Unscrew the element counterclockwise, take it to a hardware or plumbing store and get one of the same type and wattage.
Good luck!
Mike

[axemat]

Thank you Mike for your quick reply and I did as you suggested ...

I removed the upper element and it was indeed all poped out from its casing. I bought a new one with the rubber ring and installed it but there is still a small leak from the joint ... I mean really small but I d o not like to have ater next to electrical parts. The source is the condition of the threads on the tank as they were old and rusted from the previous leak. A bit if them broke off (near the outside of the tank. I do not want to tighten it too much so I guess my next option is to use some teflon.

Can I use teflon here next to the element? Teflon doesn't burn but it surely does shrink, could this be a problem?

Axemat

[Mike Swearingen]

No problem using white teflon plumber's tape on an element. Wrap 2-3 flat wraps clockwise only around the threads as the other end of the element faces you.
Clean the corroded heater threads out with a wire brush if you can. You also can smear a little clear silicone caulk on them to help seal it. Caulk, teflon tape, and the gasket should seal it.
If THAT doesn't do it, it might be time for a new water heater.
Good luck!
Mike

[axemat]

Thanks again Mike, it worked just fine with ca 4 times around of teflon. The water heats up in a jiffy ...

BTW, what is the normal lifespan of a water heater (specifically a Sears Kenmore series)? Is there a risk that it bursts eventually? What a mess that would be ...

Many thanks again,

Axemat

[noroomsforme]

The life span is usually 8-12 years reguardless of what the tank life says it is. With sears the outer jacket is the only difference between the 6 and 9 year tanks the inner workings are exactly the same you are buying a longer warranty on the 9 year tank not a better built tank. So save your money and go with the 5 or 6 year tank. Warranty only covers the darn tank you still have pay for labor so it's not any savings at all. Unit will last longer if you drain it once a year and change anode rod when needed.