Installing New Pressure Tank

[clopez]

Hi Gys,

We are getting ready to install a new pressure tank. We upgraded slightly from a 20 gl to a 25 gl. Besides turning off power and draining the old tank, are there any special instructions we should follow. The information says that it it precharged to 38psi. What should our cut in/cut off settings be? Can we used the old connection pipe or should be buy new? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Cathy

[Pumpman]

You should set the precharge to 2 psi less than your cutin pressure (i.e. 30 psi cutin, precharge should be set at 28 psi).
Make sure your gauge is good and check the cutin before you shut the system down.
You can use existing pipe as long as it's in good shape. I would install a union and valve before the tank , if possible, to facilitate future installations.
If your pressure switch is mounted on the tank tee, be sure to clean the pipe nipple and/or lines to the switch.
Use pipe thread seal or teflon tape on all joints.
Be careful when you move the old tank. If the bladder is bad it may not drain all the way, meaning it could be heavier than you would expect it to be.
If you have an above ground pump, you may lose the prime. Be sure to fill it with water before you run it again.
Ron

[nomind]

Hi Cathy, -I' ve been following the saga from beginning. - here's some hints ; I f the connection pipe from pump to tank looks or smells yucky (inside) then change it -it's cheap. Use clear braided HP hose and two hose clamps each end. If there's not a ball valve coming off the pump, put one on - it saves lots of headaches when getting a jetpump primed. Find the plug on top of the pump where you may prime it. All jetpumps MUST be primed, the ENTIRE line between pump and foot valve MUST be full of water for the pump to operate correctly.
To do this properly, close the ballvalve, remove and RE-tape the priming plug, fill the pump till no bubbles return and the water is static at the plug opening. Start the plug into the opening by 2-3 threads. Now start the pump, if pressure rises rapidly, crack the ball valve slowly open, then close the plug and you should be OK. Sometimes it is necessary to do this 2-3 times if you're not quick with locking it up. re-prime and RE-TAPE each time ( I know it's a **** ## *** @@@@, but you MUST do it).
Good luck with it, post back and let us celebrate ;)

[clopez]

Hey Ron and Nomid,
Thanks for your posts, we are going to try this over the weekend just in case we have to run out to the store for anything..too late by the time we get in from work. I had called a well guy, but he never returned my call...found out from a friend who knows him he went to Vegas Lucky guy. So I will let you know how this all turns out. Thanks again for you direction, I know it will help.....Cathy

[nomind]

thanks Cathy,
- hey not many of us well guys can afford 'Vegas - that's more of a plumber thing obviously :rolleyes:

[clopez]

The saga continues

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Hey guys,

Well we replaced the pressure tank. The pump doesn't cycle as often, maybe because we increased the tank size by 5gl. ?? But the pressure problem remains.One source on it's great, but open a second and down it goes. Now the pressure tank factory preset is 38psi, so our cut in cut off should be 40/60 if I am correct. I am sure it has been addressed, but how do we check our cut in cut off and increasd if necessary(pump is a Shallow Mayers1/2 hp jet pump) Will it hurt anything if our pump is currently at a lower setting and we increase it to the proper 40/60? If all this checks out what would you do next in troubleshooting? I know I should give the wellguy another chance, as we all deserve a vacation, but to quote my Dad, I am as stubborn as a mule and I feel like we should be able to do this ourselves. Thanks again for your help and patience!!!! Cathy
P.S. I just took a bath and what I thought about the improvement...never mind it(pressure) still sucks big time.

[Mike Swearingen]

Assuming that your well and pump can go to 40/60, you can try to increase the pressure by adjusting the Pressure Switch.
Take the PS cover off and look inside it to see if adjustment directions are on it. Be careful when you remove the PS cover. The wiring connections that you expose inside the switch by removing the cover are hot.
If there are no directions, there should be either one or two sping-loaded adjustment nuts. Turn them down to increase pressure and up to decrease pressure.
You will jump when the switch clicks on as you turn the nut(s) down, so just be prepared for that.
When the pump runs up to cut-off, the air pressure on the pressure tank will be at whatever the cut-off is, and will fall to the two-psi-below-cut-on-pressure before kicking back on as you run the water.
Good luck!
Mike

[nomind]

I'll tell you from experience, a Myers 1/2 jetpump will have problems getting to 60 psi unless it's almost new. -I'd highly recommend dropping the tank pressure to 28 and running the pump 30/50. This will also get more water inthe tank. :cool:

[Gary Slusser]

Much agreed. It sounds as if the pump is worn out, the water level in the well has fallen or there's something sucked up against the foot valve inlet. By seeing the switch differential it had been set for (10#), I vote for the pump being way past its prime.

Gary
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[clopez]

Hey guys,

Well after installing the new pressure tank and things still not right we have been asking around. We disconnected the water coditioner and bam!! we have all the pressure in the world. We are gonna try this for awhile and see how it goes, maybe have to install another conditioner system sooner or later, but for now it seems to have fixed our problems. Thanks agagin for all your guidence!!!! Cathy