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View Full Version : ge microwave xl 1400 spacemaker where to put fuse


xxrayho
12-06-04, 05:57 PM
hey guys i have a ge xl 1400 and blew the lights out under the microwave i ordered the replacment fuse took out the panel but i cant find any fuse.does anybody know where it to this thanks

nomind
12-11-04, 01:35 AM
Hi xxrayho, - I don't know this model, so this is speculation. The place I would look for it is in the cicuit board immediately adjacent to where the power cord comes in. :cool:

spacemaker1400
01-10-05, 04:04 PM
I too have a spacemaker 1400 that the bottom lights went out on. First the home circuit blew and I reset and changed bulbs, but I am getting no power to the bulbs. I didn't know the microwave has an internal fuse. Could someone give me info also on this fuse and location or to diagnose my problem furhter.

farlo1027
01-23-05, 09:09 AM
I'm having the same problem.....blew out the light and no power to lights or fan. I know that there is an internal fuse somewhere but not sure where to start looking. Any help would be appreciated!!!!!!!!

Trailrix
08-19-05, 09:49 AM
Same problem for me as well. I can't locate a fuse anywhere. I've inspected the solid state circuit board and still can't find a fuse. Possibly it's on the underside of the board. Guess I'll keep looking!

Sure seems like "alot" of us have been having the same problem with this make/model of microwave. While glancing over the other posts in here regarding the Spacemaker XL1400, it looks like our next problem will be "My XL1400 just stopped working for no reason, and won't heat anymore".

:thumbdn:

bmoeller
09-16-05, 07:20 PM
I had the same problem with my XL 1400 microwave. After a power surge everything but the lights underneath worked. After months of nagging from my wife I finally tore into it to see if I could get the lights working again. I checked the continuity of the wiring for the lights and checked the fuse and all checked out OK. The only thing left was the circuit board for the keypad. Once I replaced the circuit board the lights worked fine.

I found a great website, partselect.com, that carries all the parts and provides an exploded view diagram to help you take the microwave apart and get it back together. See url below for the diagram and parts. (The fuse holder is in the top right corner of the microwave cabinet on the air guide bracket) A new circuit board costs $112. It was shipped about 3 days after I ordered it.

PS Item# Description Ordered Price Ext. Price
-------- --------------------------------- ------- ---------- ----------
239512 ASSY PCB PARTS (ASSY PCB PAR) 1 $105.89 $105.89
----------------------
Subtotal $105.89
Shipping $6.95
Tax $0.00
Total $112.84

Once I received the new circuit board it only took about ten minutes to replace. If the microwave is mounted under a cabinet you don’t need to remove it to replace the board. To replace the board, FIRST UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE, then remove the two screws that secure the plastic grill for the vent at the top of the microwave. Remove one screw at the top of the control panel for the keypad and the LED clock. Lift up the entire control panel up and tilt it back from the top, it’s hinged on the bottom. The entire control panel can be removed from the microwave cabinet to make it easier to work on. Remove the screw that holds the ground wire from the circuit board to the microwave cabinet, and disconnect all the connections to the circuit board. Each connector for the circuit board is a different type so there is no chance of getting them confused when reconnecting them to the new board. Once this is done the entire control panel can be lifted from the microwave.

To remove the old board you need remove 6 screws and disconnect a tape-like wire from the board. To disconnect this tape wire there is a lip around the top the connector on the circuit board that you lift up to release the tape wire. Be care not to kink or break the tape. A few screws and the old circuit board lifts out. When reconnecting the tape wire to the new circuit board lift up the lip on the connector and push the tape in until you feel it hit the bottom of the connector. Press the lip down to lock the tape wire into place.

Reconnect the wiring to the new circuit board (don’t’ forget the ground wire) and remount the control panel and the vent grill and your back in business.

vgstein
09-27-05, 07:52 AM
Same microwave as those in the thread, same problem with the "underneath" lights. Thanks for the explanation of where to find the fuse; have replaced it but lights still not working. Can you explain how to check the "continuity of the wiring for the lights"? You explained you had done this prior to ordering a new circuit board - thought I'd do this next. Thanks.

THEMAN0522
12-27-05, 05:43 PM
I am glad that I found this site. I thought that I was going crazy. My microwave just stopped working completly. After making sure that the electrical outlet was still working, I figured that it was a fuse, but I could not locate where it was located. I called customer service and they verified that it was probably the fuse (NO JOKE), but here is the kicker, they REFUSED to tell me where the fuse was located. There answer to me was that they could send me a Serviceman for a service charge of $75.00. If I choose not to use their Serviceman, then they cound not help me. Is G.E. Great or what?

THEMAN0522
12-27-05, 05:57 PM
Hey guys, Thanks for all of your imput and information. I have not tried it yet, but I do feel a lot better, since I now have a place to start. I will post a message later to let you know how I made out. Thanks again.

MicrowaveGuy
12-28-05, 02:07 AM
Ouch! A new board will fix it, but the board itself can be repaired to component level for far less!

They may not tell you in the manual, but you should disconnect the power to the microwave before channing the bulbs, otherwise the surge will damage the circuit board.

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Troyboy
01-03-06, 09:03 PM
Any advice you can provide on how to repair the circuit board would be greatly appreciated. :wall:

srqwebguy
02-24-06, 06:57 PM
This is comforting to know I am not alone. We just moved into a house with a GE Spacemaker Microwave. One of the bulbs was burned out, and in fact had separated from its base. Not knowing this, I (stupidly) tried to unscrew it, and the resulting arcing mini explosion blew the circuit breaker. I reset the breaker and now the (new) lights won't come on, although the LED panel says they are on when they are turned on. An electrician here for other reasons confirmed no juice to the sockets.

Since the LED seems to recognize on/off states, I am leaning to the fuse theory. It is not worth spending $112 on a 7 year old microwave, so if its the board then we'll do without.

Thanks for the info.

StuartF
03-04-06, 11:11 AM
If you remove the smartboard and inspect it, you may very well see a burned trace that is causing your problem. I lost power to the bottom lights on my GE microwave when my wife tried to change the bulb without unplugging it. (This was while I was frantically trying to cook for Thanksgiving, but that's another story.) Being too cheap to actually pay for a new board, I took mine off to see if there was any obvious damage. Sure enough, there was a blackened spot on the back of the board where a solder trace had been. I took a thin piece of wire, soldered it to span the missing trace, and now the lights are back in business. Follow the directions for removing the board in bmoeller's 9/16 post. It's very simple to do.

IceDoc
03-19-06, 07:30 AM
Does the internal fuse control only the lights or the entire oven? My mother has this model & accidentally set it to cook rather than timer. Found a parlty melted plate inside the unit that had been stored there, but now according to her no power on LED, no fan or lights, etc. By phone had her check the home circuit breaker which had not been tripped. Might a new fuse fix this, or does it sound like the entire board (which I would not get into attempting)? Thanks.

StuartF
03-25-06, 05:04 AM
There's an internal fuse that controls the whole oven, lights and all. If the oven works but parts of the panel are dark or just the lights don't work, your problem is not the fuse.

MLUKO
04-03-06, 10:15 PM
Sister was home alone and set the microwave to 60 minutes instead of the timer....no melted plate inside, but the same effect. Nothing works at all. The fuse is not blown and the main capacitor checks ok by the appliance store. So, I believe the problem is somewhere on the circuit board. Does anyone know how to get either the schematic or the service drawings?

symphony
04-25-06, 05:33 PM
hi guys, my spacemaker xl 1400 microwave does not heat any more. Everything else appears to be fine (vent, lights etc). Any ideas?

daniel6
04-29-06, 07:02 AM
Hi guys. Mine works great but won`t heat. Anyone know why? Will appreciate any help.

sea5gull
01-05-07, 09:37 AM
on www.sears.com

on appliance repair parts you can input the part number for your spacemaker
JVM1440WD and it will take you to the parts and then you can access the
diagram and it will show you where the fuse holder is located.

Hope this helps

in need of an install manual anyone have one or where I can find one

vikingfan
03-11-08, 04:21 PM
Same problem for me as well. I can't locate a fuse anywhere. I've inspected the solid state circuit board and still can't find a fuse. Possibly it's on the underside of the board. Guess I'll keep looking!

Sure seems like "alot" of us have been having the same problem with this make/model of microwave. While glancing over the other posts in here regarding the Spacemaker XL1400, it looks like our next problem will be "My XL1400 just stopped working for no reason, and won't heat anymore".

:thumbdn:

I don't know if any one replied to you but the fuse is located in the top right part of the 1400. Remove the grill directly above the door. There's a small alum plate on both the left and right side. Remove the right plate (1 screw) and you'll see the fuse. Hope this helps.. I was trying to find out why my 1400 won't heat anymore but everything else works. I suppose the magnetron is inop. At least I know it's not the fuse.

HappyNow
04-09-08, 07:28 PM
Thanks Stuart ... i did as you said below. Took smartbaord off and sure enough, one of the trace lines were melted off. Just used what size wire i thought appropriate enough to melt again in case of another overload and soldered in place to jump the vaporized portion. And im HAPPYNOW. Worked like a charm. One advice i have to all is : unplug microwave before changing lights !!!!!!!!!! Thanks for saving me $$$$.:)


If you remove the smartboard and inspect it, you may very well see a burned trace that is causing your problem. I lost power to the bottom lights on my GE microwave when my wife tried to change the bulb without unplugging it. (This was while I was frantically trying to cook for Thanksgiving, but that's another story.) Being too cheap to actually pay for a new board, I took mine off to see if there was any obvious damage. Sure enough, there was a blackened spot on the back of the board where a solder trace had been. I took a thin piece of wire, soldered it to span the missing trace, and now the lights are back in business. Follow the directions for removing the board in bmoeller's 9/16 post. It's very simple to do.

Wlightfoot
06-23-08, 08:25 AM
Bmoeller,

Hey, I just wanted to let you know that with your great, thorough thread on your problem with your XL 1400 microwave, I was able to mirror what you did, and this weekend, I had lights on. I used your advice to use partselect.com and the part number you listed, and followed your tips to the “T”, and everything worked perfectly!

Great advice!

Thanks a ton!!

Will

DLY455
08-06-08, 10:58 PM
Hey StuartF, Thanks a lot for the suggestion. My lights have been out for almost a year. I finally got mean and just disassembled the board and took it to a shop to see if they could repair it. After they told me that the board wasn't meant to be repaired I follow your advice and looked at the back of the board and saw a burn. Got my soldering kit out and ran a bead across the problem area, replaced the bulbs before I plugged the microwave back in and low and behold the lights are now working.
For others who want to do the same, look at the board near the bottom where there are 2 white electrical plug in's and you will see some discoloration where the board burned out, just run a bead of solder and it will work fine. Just remember to put the bulbs back in prior to pluging the thing in.

Thanks again