Sealing Sealing Basement Walls

[3rcm]

Getting ready to start my basement project. Only real concern I have is making sure I do not have a moisture problem. I have a visibly dry basement except for a couple of the tie rods that get damp / wet after hard rain or in spring.

Options I have considered:
1: Fill tie rod holes with hydraulic cement, then waterproof the walls with DryLoc. Does not seem to me like the hydraulic cement would really help in this case, unless I drill out a hole to fill with the cement (afraid of doing more damage than good). Otherwise, it would simply be covering the surface.

2: Fill tie rod holes with a contractors sealer (Sika) and Dryloc as above. Seems like I would be able to extrude this in and aroundthe tie rod.

3: Seal the walls with Radon Seal. Anyone ever use this? Looking on the web site it sounds like it penetrates into the concrete. Also, looks like application would be pretty easy (garden spayer).

Thanks

[majakdragon]

Went to the Radonseal site. Sounds good but I have no experience with it. I would still fill the anchor holes before using it. I DO KNOW from experience that using products like Dry Loc and Thuro-seal are not an enjoyable job. They do work though. Good luck on your project.

[Ed Imeduc]

Why the tie rods they still there?

Id go for #2. When all done hang a 6 mil poly over the wall from the sill platedown then put up the stud walls. Dont forget a R 19 in each joist space up there on the sill plate all around the home for insulation.

ED ;)

[3rcm]

Ed,
Tie rods are broken off, but the part buried in the concrete wall is still there with a chip in the concrete where the pin / rod was broken off. Maybe I used the wrong term?

I read that using the 6 mil Poly traps moisture. I do not have channels around the perimeter of the basement for drainage should condensation or water need somewhere to go. For your suggestion, what do you attach the poly to (the sill plate?). Does it just hang to the floor? Maybe the moisture issue I read about is due to attaching the 6 mil poly to the backside of the wall?

Since you mentioned insulation... My basement has insulation between the joists going from sill to sill (yellow fiberglass, no vapor barrier). Do I need more? Also, what about heating the basement..Do I need to remove the insulation between the joists?

Thanks for your help.

[Ed Imeduc]

The 6 mil poly just staple it to the sill plate and let it hang. Insulation in all the joist .Its ok as long as it dont have a V/B there. All it will do is work for noise there and you do want it there at the sill plate. Any heat and AC you let out down there will get or go up to the home so its no loss. Dont forget P/T 2x4 for the bottom plate of the wall.

ED ;)

[pixal]

I was also concerned about locking the moisture in, but I've decided 6 mil plastic is the best way for me to go after reading through the forum. One suggestion I saw was to leave an inch between the concrete and the studs to allow a little air flow for any moisture that might get into the wall.

Not sure if it is necessary or not, but unless I hear different, that's probably what I'll do.

Al Z

[barkowkj]

dry-loc is not that hard i did it in my basement and i am 115 lbs 5ft tall woman. It worked great and was not too much trouble at all. you just need to get a real nappy roller and spread it on thick, it feels like heavy thick paint. i did 3 coats in one day and each coat dries in about an hour. it was actually alot easier than i thought. also consider dry-locking the floor too,that way where the floor meets the wall it is sealed also. also i do not know what holes you are talking about, but i do know that any holes in cynder block should be filled with cynder block mortor. this is availible in quarts. i also beleave you can use this on concrete walls as well. you just use a trowel and really cram it in the hole.....let dry and paint

[barkowkj]

what is a tie rod???