Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - Neptune drum bearings repair possible?
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bilbojr
12-02-04, 02:45 PM
As luck would have it, after I successfully saved my broken spinner with new bolts, my Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW now is starting to squeal when on the spin cycle. I suspect the bearings are starting to go. I can spin the drum by hand slowly without feeling any signs of bearing failure but when the cycle starts for spin it starts howling. It used to be pretty quiet. Anyone have any experience with this? Has anyone successfully changed out the outer drum bearings? I've read they are imbedded in the plastic housing without any chance of a DIY repair. To add to that, is it true Maytag is discontinuing this part (outer drum with bearings)?
K.Gomes
12-03-04, 12:41 PM
I had 3 times with a squeeling problem. Is it constant high pitch? or high pitch with a bit of base?
My Maytag had simliar or exact. Scince Maytag hucked the dependile care series and unvailed the neptune and performa, they removed parts that are not needy. One of them was a drain filter. If you have anything in your pockets particularly stringy like a necklace, it can slip thru a whole on the drain cycle and get logged in the pump assembly causeing high pitchy noises.
You can fix it your self. Id say it could be the berings, but check the pump. You can by opening up the top, taking of the front panel and dis-assemble the pump assembly.
Note: Maytag isnt as "dependible" as it used to be. :mad:
My Maytag had simliar or exact. Scince Maytag hucked the dependile care series and unvailed the neptune and performa, they removed parts that are not needy. One of them was a drain filter. If you have anything in your pockets particularly stringy like a necklace, it can slip thru a whole on the drain cycle and get logged in the pump assembly causeing high pitchy noises.
You can fix it your self. Id say it could be the berings, but check the pump. You can by opening up the top, taking of the front panel and dis-assemble the pump assembly.
Note: Maytag isnt as "dependible" as it used to be. :mad:
bilbojr
12-03-04, 11:24 PM
Thanks for the reply. I'll try cleaning out the pump tomorrow. Now that my wife has been using the washer since the noise first started, I can detect a slight resistance and roughness when I turn the drum by hand. I was able to find a new outer drum so I ordered it along with a Maytag service manual. I'll let you know what happens.
rgmvmm
12-05-04, 06:53 PM
In 1998 I purchased a Maytag Neptune Washer/Dryer Stack set for about $2000 because it fit nicely in our small laundry area and provided more area for laundry products and dirty laundry storage. The machine worked well for a few years. I did not have any of the mold problems that have been reported here and elsewhere. Then the problems started. Intermittent resets of the control, wax motor/door lock issues which kept the machine from going into spin, etc. With some urging Maytag fixed the "mold smell" non issue with the new seal arrangement and at the same time added a new control board in the console to "enhance the washability". In truth, it was probably because they had many problems with control board failures.
About this time, worried that other problems might show up, I sent an email to Maytag Customer service asking for a service manual. They sent one out immediately (Stacked Laundry Service Manual - Issued 7/98). NOTE: This is a fairly well written manual which includes detailed descriptions of the individual subsystems and how they work, Exploded view of components, Troubleshooting Flow Charts, Electrical Component tests and Repair procedures. I recommend that anyone that is the least bit "handy" get a manual like this for their machine. Even if you don't fix it yourself, it gives you a good idea of the complexity of some repairs and hence, how much you will pay in labor.
Two months after the above "Fixes", my wax motor/door lock went. The door would no longer lock, the "locked Light" would not come on and the machine would not go into high speed spin. After analyzing the circuit I determined that you could put a flexible shim between the door lock throw piston and the spin enable micro switch. The door still would not lock but the machine would go into spin. I used a small piece of stiff foam to make this shim. I also warned my wife not to open the door while the machine was running. She indicated that she would never try to do that no matter what.
The above fix (with a foam shim) lasted for several years until the foam took a permanent set. Then I just replaced the foam shim.
Several months ago I got the literature mailed to me concerning the class action lawsuit. I filled in the paperwork and sent it out hoping that nothing else would go wrong before I received a settlement. Well, I was wrong. Must not have "knocked on wood" or something. Two weeks ago the washer section started to have a "howling" noise when it went into high speed spin. I knew that this was NOT GOOD. It was probably a problem with the tub/spinner bearing assembly. There was no "play" between the inner and outer tubs so I hoped that the bearings just needed lubrication. After reading the service manual I deduced that the minimum that I would need would be a spinner shaft seal. I was lucky and found the right shaft seal at my local appliance parts store. (Most internet parts dealers have this part.)
I set to work tearing the machine apart. No fancy tools required. The repair manual was a big help. Everything was fairly well laid out including tricks to get the front shroud unfastened and tucked around the side of my stack set (out of the way). If you have to take apart the outer tub to get access to the inner tub for cleanout or for removing the inner tub, DO NOT REMOVE THE WIRE LOOP AND SPRING. The outer tub cover and seal assembly will come off as one piece after you remove the thirteen tub clips. This will save a whole bunch of time. I then removed the back cover, the pulley bolt/washer and the pulley which came off much easier than I expected. I tried to pull out the stainless spinbasket with the spinner support and shaft attached. I tried loosening the shaft with a hammer and hard wood block driving it toward the front of the machine. It wouldn't budge. I then took out the rear baffles in the spinner tub and after marking part locations removed the three locking nuts. The tub came off the spinner support easily. After several hits with the hammer and a hardwood block the spinner support popped loose and was then removed from the outer tub/bearing assembly.
After popping out the inner part of the water seal which was dry (No seal lubricant) and worn and removing the plastic spacer, I was finally able to see the inner bearing. By this time I was about two and one-half hours into the repair. It was immediately obvious that the inner bearing was lacking lubricant and had been subjected to water incursion (rust around the bearing seal). Crossing my fingers and hoping that the bearing was not damaged (according to Maytag, you can't replace the bearings without replacing the whole outer tub assembly) I lubricated the inner bearing using a needle grease adapter and marine (Water resistant) bearing grease. It took quite a bit of grease. I also lubricated the outer bearing on the back of the tub support which took very little grease and then started the cleanup/assembly process. The cleanup took a little time because of the dirt/scum built up in the pockets of the spinner assembly and on the back of the inner tub at the spinner/inner tub interfaces.
I replaced the spinner support shaft seal per the instructions and then proceeded with the reassembly of the machine. I reinserted the spinner support shaft through the bearings and lightly seated it hoping that the seal would go into place. It did when I put the pulley on the back and tightened up the pulley bolt. It seemed to run quite smooth but was tight which I attributed to the new seals. I reassembled the rest of the machine, kept my fingers crossed and put it on "Final Spin". When the machine got up to several hundred RPM (800RPM is the maximum final spin speed) I could tell that the bearing had been damaged when it ran out of lubricant. Instead of "Howling" at high speed it now had a lower volume rumble coming from the tub. Luck was not with me!!
I went on the internet and looked at how much it would cost me to replace the outer tub/bearing assemblies. Most suppliers showed the part as "No Longer Available - Call the Manufacturer". Sears had it for about $200. At this point I had a decision to make. If this were a washer and not a washer dryer stack set, I would probably have tossed the washer to the junk man and bought a new washer. I sure did not want to buy both a washer and a dryer and reconfigure the laundry area, so I decided to repair the washer myself. Two estimates between $500 and $600 from appliance repair services also made this decision quite easy.
I called Maytag Customer service and complained about the short life of the seal and the fact that a $30 dollar water seal failure also cost me an expensive outer tub/bearing assembly. What a dumb design!! The bearing assembly should have been designed so that it was replaceable (They are two simple [$10 - $15] sealed ball bearings with a spacer between them).
Their answer was typical "Parts do fail" and they sent me over to their parts department. This was a bonus because their prices for all the parts were about 70% of what they would have cost at Sears or other internet appliance parts dealers. I ordered the Outer Tub/Bearing assembly, the spinner support seal (again), the tub cover seal (good insurance policy), new tub clips which hold the tub cover to the outer tub assembly and a new drain pump. The last was also an insurance policy because the motor driven pump was 6 years old and was getting noisy. While I had it apart, I thought that I should replace the pump.
My goal is to try to get another 5 to 6 years out of the machine before I replace it. I am now waiting for the all the parts from Maytag. Lets hope they can get a simple parts order right!
Bob
About this time, worried that other problems might show up, I sent an email to Maytag Customer service asking for a service manual. They sent one out immediately (Stacked Laundry Service Manual - Issued 7/98). NOTE: This is a fairly well written manual which includes detailed descriptions of the individual subsystems and how they work, Exploded view of components, Troubleshooting Flow Charts, Electrical Component tests and Repair procedures. I recommend that anyone that is the least bit "handy" get a manual like this for their machine. Even if you don't fix it yourself, it gives you a good idea of the complexity of some repairs and hence, how much you will pay in labor.
Two months after the above "Fixes", my wax motor/door lock went. The door would no longer lock, the "locked Light" would not come on and the machine would not go into high speed spin. After analyzing the circuit I determined that you could put a flexible shim between the door lock throw piston and the spin enable micro switch. The door still would not lock but the machine would go into spin. I used a small piece of stiff foam to make this shim. I also warned my wife not to open the door while the machine was running. She indicated that she would never try to do that no matter what.
The above fix (with a foam shim) lasted for several years until the foam took a permanent set. Then I just replaced the foam shim.
Several months ago I got the literature mailed to me concerning the class action lawsuit. I filled in the paperwork and sent it out hoping that nothing else would go wrong before I received a settlement. Well, I was wrong. Must not have "knocked on wood" or something. Two weeks ago the washer section started to have a "howling" noise when it went into high speed spin. I knew that this was NOT GOOD. It was probably a problem with the tub/spinner bearing assembly. There was no "play" between the inner and outer tubs so I hoped that the bearings just needed lubrication. After reading the service manual I deduced that the minimum that I would need would be a spinner shaft seal. I was lucky and found the right shaft seal at my local appliance parts store. (Most internet parts dealers have this part.)
I set to work tearing the machine apart. No fancy tools required. The repair manual was a big help. Everything was fairly well laid out including tricks to get the front shroud unfastened and tucked around the side of my stack set (out of the way). If you have to take apart the outer tub to get access to the inner tub for cleanout or for removing the inner tub, DO NOT REMOVE THE WIRE LOOP AND SPRING. The outer tub cover and seal assembly will come off as one piece after you remove the thirteen tub clips. This will save a whole bunch of time. I then removed the back cover, the pulley bolt/washer and the pulley which came off much easier than I expected. I tried to pull out the stainless spinbasket with the spinner support and shaft attached. I tried loosening the shaft with a hammer and hard wood block driving it toward the front of the machine. It wouldn't budge. I then took out the rear baffles in the spinner tub and after marking part locations removed the three locking nuts. The tub came off the spinner support easily. After several hits with the hammer and a hardwood block the spinner support popped loose and was then removed from the outer tub/bearing assembly.
After popping out the inner part of the water seal which was dry (No seal lubricant) and worn and removing the plastic spacer, I was finally able to see the inner bearing. By this time I was about two and one-half hours into the repair. It was immediately obvious that the inner bearing was lacking lubricant and had been subjected to water incursion (rust around the bearing seal). Crossing my fingers and hoping that the bearing was not damaged (according to Maytag, you can't replace the bearings without replacing the whole outer tub assembly) I lubricated the inner bearing using a needle grease adapter and marine (Water resistant) bearing grease. It took quite a bit of grease. I also lubricated the outer bearing on the back of the tub support which took very little grease and then started the cleanup/assembly process. The cleanup took a little time because of the dirt/scum built up in the pockets of the spinner assembly and on the back of the inner tub at the spinner/inner tub interfaces.
I replaced the spinner support shaft seal per the instructions and then proceeded with the reassembly of the machine. I reinserted the spinner support shaft through the bearings and lightly seated it hoping that the seal would go into place. It did when I put the pulley on the back and tightened up the pulley bolt. It seemed to run quite smooth but was tight which I attributed to the new seals. I reassembled the rest of the machine, kept my fingers crossed and put it on "Final Spin". When the machine got up to several hundred RPM (800RPM is the maximum final spin speed) I could tell that the bearing had been damaged when it ran out of lubricant. Instead of "Howling" at high speed it now had a lower volume rumble coming from the tub. Luck was not with me!!
I went on the internet and looked at how much it would cost me to replace the outer tub/bearing assemblies. Most suppliers showed the part as "No Longer Available - Call the Manufacturer". Sears had it for about $200. At this point I had a decision to make. If this were a washer and not a washer dryer stack set, I would probably have tossed the washer to the junk man and bought a new washer. I sure did not want to buy both a washer and a dryer and reconfigure the laundry area, so I decided to repair the washer myself. Two estimates between $500 and $600 from appliance repair services also made this decision quite easy.
I called Maytag Customer service and complained about the short life of the seal and the fact that a $30 dollar water seal failure also cost me an expensive outer tub/bearing assembly. What a dumb design!! The bearing assembly should have been designed so that it was replaceable (They are two simple [$10 - $15] sealed ball bearings with a spacer between them).
Their answer was typical "Parts do fail" and they sent me over to their parts department. This was a bonus because their prices for all the parts were about 70% of what they would have cost at Sears or other internet appliance parts dealers. I ordered the Outer Tub/Bearing assembly, the spinner support seal (again), the tub cover seal (good insurance policy), new tub clips which hold the tub cover to the outer tub assembly and a new drain pump. The last was also an insurance policy because the motor driven pump was 6 years old and was getting noisy. While I had it apart, I thought that I should replace the pump.
My goal is to try to get another 5 to 6 years out of the machine before I replace it. I am now waiting for the all the parts from Maytag. Lets hope they can get a simple parts order right!
Bob
bilbojr
12-06-04, 06:20 AM
Thanks for your reply Bob, I have a new outer drum coming as well as a service manual from Maytag. Good luck with your repair. I'll be using your info to help me with mine!
rgmvmm
12-11-04, 02:03 PM
10Dec04 Update
The Neptune Stack-Set is back together and running well (Much quieter than it was before). The Maytag people were great and got me all of the parts that I needed quickly. In addition to the parts listed in the story above, I also replaced the Spinner Support Assembly (which allowed me to use the newer Tub bearing seal assembly – a good choice if it extends the life of the seal) and the support/Inner Tub attachment hardware on my nickel. I also replaced the air dome hose which runs from the Tub Drain area to the pressure switch. The portion of the rubber part inside the tub was showing its age (Hardening & Surface cracking). This was worth the insurance. It would be a difficult repair to make after I had put the machine back together again.
I indicated to Maytag that I was having periodic trouble with the Motor/Motor Control being intermittent and they approved the replacement of the Motor/Control Board with the newer style motor on a warranty exchange basis with a local Maytag parts supplier. Cost me a 15 mile trip to the parts supplier to exchange both the motor and the Control Board which was well worth it. This was also a bonus as long as I had the washing machine section completely apart.
A suggestion to those that try this repair: My original stack Set came to me in two pieces – The lower Washer Section and the Upper Dryer section. I tore the washing machine down to the point where I was ready to remove the outer tub assembly (Motor, Balance weights, pulley, inner Tub and spinner Support assemblies removed) and then decided that it would be much easier to proceed if I unstacked the units first.
For those who didn’t watch their unit being stacked at delivery/setup or got a Factory Stacked unit (Online installation instructions only are for the factory stacked units) the process (At least on my unit) was quite simple: 1) Remove the gas line and fittings from the pipe at the back of the upper dryer section at the right rear. 2) Remove the upper hex head screw (5/16) on the 2 inch long strap which runs from the top of the washer section to the bottom of the dryer cabinet at he left rear. 3) Remove the two hex head screws (5/16) which hold the clips which fasten the dryer to the washer. These clips are located inside the lower “Sled” of the dryer base with the screws coming in thru the dryer base front. 4) Unplug both the right and the left harness connections from the dryer to the washer. 5) The dryer will then slide forward on the washer base until the gas pipe clears the small square hole in the back of the washer. Removal will most likely take two people. 6) Be careful not to damage the Gas Pipe and harness connections when setting the dryer down.
I am totally satisfied the way I was treated by Maytag. The “self–Refurbished” unit runs great and I am looking forward to many years of trouble free operation. Now if only they would fix my broken wax motor locking system (lawsuit issue), I would be totally satisfied.
Bob
The Neptune Stack-Set is back together and running well (Much quieter than it was before). The Maytag people were great and got me all of the parts that I needed quickly. In addition to the parts listed in the story above, I also replaced the Spinner Support Assembly (which allowed me to use the newer Tub bearing seal assembly – a good choice if it extends the life of the seal) and the support/Inner Tub attachment hardware on my nickel. I also replaced the air dome hose which runs from the Tub Drain area to the pressure switch. The portion of the rubber part inside the tub was showing its age (Hardening & Surface cracking). This was worth the insurance. It would be a difficult repair to make after I had put the machine back together again.
I indicated to Maytag that I was having periodic trouble with the Motor/Motor Control being intermittent and they approved the replacement of the Motor/Control Board with the newer style motor on a warranty exchange basis with a local Maytag parts supplier. Cost me a 15 mile trip to the parts supplier to exchange both the motor and the Control Board which was well worth it. This was also a bonus as long as I had the washing machine section completely apart.
A suggestion to those that try this repair: My original stack Set came to me in two pieces – The lower Washer Section and the Upper Dryer section. I tore the washing machine down to the point where I was ready to remove the outer tub assembly (Motor, Balance weights, pulley, inner Tub and spinner Support assemblies removed) and then decided that it would be much easier to proceed if I unstacked the units first.
For those who didn’t watch their unit being stacked at delivery/setup or got a Factory Stacked unit (Online installation instructions only are for the factory stacked units) the process (At least on my unit) was quite simple: 1) Remove the gas line and fittings from the pipe at the back of the upper dryer section at the right rear. 2) Remove the upper hex head screw (5/16) on the 2 inch long strap which runs from the top of the washer section to the bottom of the dryer cabinet at he left rear. 3) Remove the two hex head screws (5/16) which hold the clips which fasten the dryer to the washer. These clips are located inside the lower “Sled” of the dryer base with the screws coming in thru the dryer base front. 4) Unplug both the right and the left harness connections from the dryer to the washer. 5) The dryer will then slide forward on the washer base until the gas pipe clears the small square hole in the back of the washer. Removal will most likely take two people. 6) Be careful not to damage the Gas Pipe and harness connections when setting the dryer down.
I am totally satisfied the way I was treated by Maytag. The “self–Refurbished” unit runs great and I am looking forward to many years of trouble free operation. Now if only they would fix my broken wax motor locking system (lawsuit issue), I would be totally satisfied.
Bob
bilbojr
12-13-04, 07:13 AM
Good job Bob. I just finished mine. From start to finish it took me about 3 hours and it's spinning quietly now. The outer tub bearings were indeed rusting from water getting past the seal. What a poor design. Anyways after looking at the old outer tub, I don't see why a really motivated individual couldn't change the bearings in the tub. I think it's a factory ploy to get individuals to buy the whole tub. In fact I think I'll give it a try and save the old tub for future problems. It doesn't look like the bearings are proprietary and can be knocked out with a simple punch and hammer, just like wheel bearings.
bilbojr
12-31-04, 03:25 PM
Well, I'm back again after an extended break. I had put my outer drum with bad bearings up till I had time to mess with it. I'm on Christmas break now and I resumed the task of replacing the bearings. I can report success! The bearings required a pair of large snap ring pliers, a punch and a heavy hammer. It was similar to replacing wheel bearings. Nice and slow without giving up. The bearings are installed in an aluminum insert that corrodes easily. Once you clean it up sufficiently to knock the races out, you'll be home free. I'm off to the local bearing house to match bearings and seals and now I'll have an extra outer tub in case it happens again. Good luck all of you! :)
bilbojr
01-04-05, 04:55 PM
I'm already past this point, but for those who are gadget freaks will like this one. Check out tonytool.com and take a look at the Maytag Neptune bearing tool.
AKBessy
05-28-06, 02:22 AM
How are your replaced bearings holding up? I just ran across your post as I was looking into posts about our new noise (which I'll post as a new thread).
bilbojr
05-29-06, 11:23 PM
I've had my new bearings installed since 12/12/2004 with no problems. How are you doing with your repair?
regards,
bilbojr
regards,
bilbojr
AKBessy
05-31-06, 01:05 AM
I am thankful to have a mechanic with electrical troubleshooting experience for a husband.
We've went through a few things on our machine - no bearings yet though. Since we've read your post, if we have bearing problems, we know what we'll be doing.
Our problems were the common ones I've read for the Maytag Neptunes minus the wax motor problem. I was so glad to run across this forum because it sure helped us to read everyone's dilemmas and fixes. We, also, broke down and ordered the service manual, which has helped. Our most recent problem was a noise that sounded like the belt slipping during start-up or motor direction change. We flipped the belt the other way (instead of reading Maytag upright, we are now reading it upside down); the noise has stopped. The belts has 6 ribs running length-wise and two outer ribs looked kinda scuffed up compared to the others. I think that somehow the belt jumped out of its proper alignment (didn't pay attention to alignment when we pulled it off of the machine); when we reinstalled the belt, we paid attention to proper alignment. Re-installment and proper alignment seems to have been the fix because the noise is gone.
Thank you for sharing your information with the forum. :-)
We've went through a few things on our machine - no bearings yet though. Since we've read your post, if we have bearing problems, we know what we'll be doing.
Our problems were the common ones I've read for the Maytag Neptunes minus the wax motor problem. I was so glad to run across this forum because it sure helped us to read everyone's dilemmas and fixes. We, also, broke down and ordered the service manual, which has helped. Our most recent problem was a noise that sounded like the belt slipping during start-up or motor direction change. We flipped the belt the other way (instead of reading Maytag upright, we are now reading it upside down); the noise has stopped. The belts has 6 ribs running length-wise and two outer ribs looked kinda scuffed up compared to the others. I think that somehow the belt jumped out of its proper alignment (didn't pay attention to alignment when we pulled it off of the machine); when we reinstalled the belt, we paid attention to proper alignment. Re-installment and proper alignment seems to have been the fix because the noise is gone.
Thank you for sharing your information with the forum. :-)
bilbojr
06-01-06, 06:47 AM
Mine too had a squeek every time the motor reversed direction. Instead of reversing the belt, I changed the motor mount bushings as part of the factory update. The new bushings are harder and I think it keeps the motor steady and less apt to allow the belt a momentary slip as it changes direction. Good thing you have a good mechanic, it always helps!
william_b_noble
07-06-06, 09:18 AM
I'm inthe process of replacing the bearings in my old style neptune.
1. the tonytool web site has a nice video that walks you through the process - if you don't buy his tool, you'll still find the video helpful.
2. maytag technical bulletin dated jan 2003, no TDL-0021-B relates to the seal and is helpful to have
3. I was able to remove both bearings with a drift and a hammer - note that the mass of the drift is important, it has to be heavy enough to carry the impact.
4. if you are planning ahead, it's worth the $50 to order the tonytool just to save the sweat of hammering on bearings in an awkward position.
5. my machine was leaking due to the failed seal - this caused some damage to the floor under the machine - so if you hear a bearing failing, it might be good to look inside the macine for water lying on the base
6. this is a great opportunity to clean the interior of the washer.
I'll post the #s of the bearings when I get them - the two bearings are different sizes, the rearmost (close to pulley) bearing is SKF6206-227HT - don't know if that's a good number or not (yet).OD 2.440, ID 1.175. My frontmost bearing has no legible numbers (too much corrosion), the OD is 2.840, Id is 1.375
1. the tonytool web site has a nice video that walks you through the process - if you don't buy his tool, you'll still find the video helpful.
2. maytag technical bulletin dated jan 2003, no TDL-0021-B relates to the seal and is helpful to have
3. I was able to remove both bearings with a drift and a hammer - note that the mass of the drift is important, it has to be heavy enough to carry the impact.
4. if you are planning ahead, it's worth the $50 to order the tonytool just to save the sweat of hammering on bearings in an awkward position.
5. my machine was leaking due to the failed seal - this caused some damage to the floor under the machine - so if you hear a bearing failing, it might be good to look inside the macine for water lying on the base
6. this is a great opportunity to clean the interior of the washer.
I'll post the #s of the bearings when I get them - the two bearings are different sizes, the rearmost (close to pulley) bearing is SKF6206-227HT - don't know if that's a good number or not (yet).OD 2.440, ID 1.175. My frontmost bearing has no legible numbers (too much corrosion), the OD is 2.840, Id is 1.375
william_b_noble
07-06-06, 12:38 PM
I got better quality sealed bearings, bearing numbers 6206 and 6207ZZ for $12 and $15 respectively - precision bearings and supply 310-322-6611 hope this helps
wifi
07-08-06, 05:23 PM
William,
The bearing is howling on our Neptune during spin, and from what I've researched my choices are:
1) Replace Outer Tub Assy, Spinner Support, & misc seals
2) Replace only the bearing that are bad in these two parts
3) Throw it out and buy something new.
I like option 2 the best. Is it true that the Outer Tub Assy in NLA? I saw some mentions of that and the parts houses don't seem to stock it. Also, I read something about the replacemnt parts being upgraded from the original (mines an old MAH3000AWW).
Anyway, you mention that the Tony Tool is only $50, but from what I see on their websit, the tool is $479, and the bearings kit is $50. Or is there a different version of the tool that mere mortals can afford?
Oh, and where are people purchasing the repair manual from?
Thanks. This thread has been great!
The bearing is howling on our Neptune during spin, and from what I've researched my choices are:
1) Replace Outer Tub Assy, Spinner Support, & misc seals
2) Replace only the bearing that are bad in these two parts
3) Throw it out and buy something new.
I like option 2 the best. Is it true that the Outer Tub Assy in NLA? I saw some mentions of that and the parts houses don't seem to stock it. Also, I read something about the replacemnt parts being upgraded from the original (mines an old MAH3000AWW).
Anyway, you mention that the Tony Tool is only $50, but from what I see on their websit, the tool is $479, and the bearings kit is $50. Or is there a different version of the tool that mere mortals can afford?
Oh, and where are people purchasing the repair manual from?
Thanks. This thread has been great!
bilbojr
07-12-06, 08:08 AM
You can get the repair manual at several on-line sources. repairclinic.com has one or else you might want to try others for best pricing. I think I got mine at pcappliancerepair.com but I don't see it list any longer.
SeanFitz
08-17-06, 11:14 AM
I found this online for free @
http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/16010061new.pdf
Hope this helps. I am going to try and replace mine as soon as I can get the parts. It is screaching something horrible.
http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/16010061new.pdf
Hope this helps. I am going to try and replace mine as soon as I can get the parts. It is screaching something horrible.
RER747
11-03-06, 05:21 PM
I was reading thru the various posts. Verify informative.
Our Neptune washer has experienced many of the same problems.
We had the same belt squeak when the tub changed directions. All we had to do was spray the belt with belt dressing. The squeak went away and all is well.... Kind of... Our washer has developed the howl during the spin cycle. It looks like I will be replacing tub bearings in the near future...
Our Neptune washer has experienced many of the same problems.
We had the same belt squeak when the tub changed directions. All we had to do was spray the belt with belt dressing. The squeak went away and all is well.... Kind of... Our washer has developed the howl during the spin cycle. It looks like I will be replacing tub bearings in the near future...
jspad
11-16-06, 12:33 PM
It is possible to replace these bearings. I just finished doing it on my 8 year old Neptune.
I checked out the "Tony Tool" but at over $400 it isnt for the home handyman.
Then I found http://beesmart-ezway.com
They sell a homeowner kit with the bearings, a seal, glue and grease for the seal and also a few crude tools for driving out the bad bearings and driving in the new ones. The tools are basically a pipe and a rectangular piece of steel bar stock but they are well thought out and they work. Also, the instructions in the kit are very good.
The kit costs about $135. I know I could get the bearings and seal for less but my time is worth something to me and this kit allowed me to do it myself in 2.5 hours and it works great.
Three more tips for anyone doing this:
1) freeze the new bearings in the freezer for two days before you install them and dont take them out until just before you install each one. This will minimize the OD of the new bearings and make them easier to install.
2) You are going to need a hand sledge to drive out the old bearings, especially the front one.
3) Get yourself a large can of "Dust-off" (the canned air you use to blow out your computer with). Before you drive out the front bearing (you drive the back one out first) pop off it's inner shield/seal, exposing the balls inside. Take the can of dust off, install the small extension tube in it's nozzle, turn the can UPSIDE DOWN and spray the bearing balls with the liquid that comes out until the bearing is very frozen. This will shrink it away from the hub it is pressed into and make extraction easier.
Good Luck!
I checked out the "Tony Tool" but at over $400 it isnt for the home handyman.
Then I found http://beesmart-ezway.com
They sell a homeowner kit with the bearings, a seal, glue and grease for the seal and also a few crude tools for driving out the bad bearings and driving in the new ones. The tools are basically a pipe and a rectangular piece of steel bar stock but they are well thought out and they work. Also, the instructions in the kit are very good.
The kit costs about $135. I know I could get the bearings and seal for less but my time is worth something to me and this kit allowed me to do it myself in 2.5 hours and it works great.
Three more tips for anyone doing this:
1) freeze the new bearings in the freezer for two days before you install them and dont take them out until just before you install each one. This will minimize the OD of the new bearings and make them easier to install.
2) You are going to need a hand sledge to drive out the old bearings, especially the front one.
3) Get yourself a large can of "Dust-off" (the canned air you use to blow out your computer with). Before you drive out the front bearing (you drive the back one out first) pop off it's inner shield/seal, exposing the balls inside. Take the can of dust off, install the small extension tube in it's nozzle, turn the can UPSIDE DOWN and spray the bearing balls with the liquid that comes out until the bearing is very frozen. This will shrink it away from the hub it is pressed into and make extraction easier.
Good Luck!
piperp
12-29-06, 09:36 AM
I ordered the kit from beesmart-ezway and installed it. I am having troubles with water still leaking from the weep holes. Any idea's?
It is possible to replace these bearings. I just finished doing it on my 8 year old Neptune.
I checked out the "Tony Tool" but at over $400 it isnt for the home handyman.
Then I found http://beesmart-ezway.com
They sell a homeowner kit with the bearings, a seal, glue and grease for the seal and also a few crude tools for driving out the bad bearings and driving in the new ones. The tools are basically a pipe and a rectangular piece of steel bar stock but they are well thought out and they work. Also, the instructions in the kit are very good.
The kit costs about $135. I know I could get the bearings and seal for less but my time is worth something to me and this kit allowed me to do it myself in 2.5 hours and it works great.
Three more tips for anyone doing this:
1) freeze the new bearings in the freezer for two days before you install them and dont take them out until just before you install each one. This will minimize the OD of the new bearings and make them easier to install.
2) You are going to need a hand sledge to drive out the old bearings, especially the front one.
3) Get yourself a large can of "Dust-off" (the canned air you use to blow out your computer with). Before you drive out the front bearing (you drive the back one out first) pop off it's inner shield/seal, exposing the balls inside. Take the can of dust off, install the small extension tube in it's nozzle, turn the can UPSIDE DOWN and spray the bearing balls with the liquid that comes out until the bearing is very frozen. This will shrink it away from the hub it is pressed into and make extraction easier.
Good Luck!
It is possible to replace these bearings. I just finished doing it on my 8 year old Neptune.
I checked out the "Tony Tool" but at over $400 it isnt for the home handyman.
Then I found http://beesmart-ezway.com
They sell a homeowner kit with the bearings, a seal, glue and grease for the seal and also a few crude tools for driving out the bad bearings and driving in the new ones. The tools are basically a pipe and a rectangular piece of steel bar stock but they are well thought out and they work. Also, the instructions in the kit are very good.
The kit costs about $135. I know I could get the bearings and seal for less but my time is worth something to me and this kit allowed me to do it myself in 2.5 hours and it works great.
Three more tips for anyone doing this:
1) freeze the new bearings in the freezer for two days before you install them and dont take them out until just before you install each one. This will minimize the OD of the new bearings and make them easier to install.
2) You are going to need a hand sledge to drive out the old bearings, especially the front one.
3) Get yourself a large can of "Dust-off" (the canned air you use to blow out your computer with). Before you drive out the front bearing (you drive the back one out first) pop off it's inner shield/seal, exposing the balls inside. Take the can of dust off, install the small extension tube in it's nozzle, turn the can UPSIDE DOWN and spray the bearing balls with the liquid that comes out until the bearing is very frozen. This will shrink it away from the hub it is pressed into and make extraction easier.
Good Luck!
gardenmaniac
01-01-07, 02:38 PM
Hi..
Happy New Year!
We have a Neptune washer, (the 3000 model) that is just 9 years old. At 3 years the wax motor/door lock/control panel issue happened..which Maytag DID cover parts & we paid the service call. Now we have the drum bearing problem and it is getting noisier by the load. My husband is totally willing to try & fix it (he can fix just about anything) & after looking at new washers & dryers today..he is motivated! I am guessing that we also have the problem with the leaking seal.
So...while he has the thing torn apart..what parts should he replace & where is the best place to get them? He won't need any tools.
Thanks!
Happy New Year!
We have a Neptune washer, (the 3000 model) that is just 9 years old. At 3 years the wax motor/door lock/control panel issue happened..which Maytag DID cover parts & we paid the service call. Now we have the drum bearing problem and it is getting noisier by the load. My husband is totally willing to try & fix it (he can fix just about anything) & after looking at new washers & dryers today..he is motivated! I am guessing that we also have the problem with the leaking seal.
So...while he has the thing torn apart..what parts should he replace & where is the best place to get them? He won't need any tools.
Thanks!
piperp
01-02-07, 10:55 AM
I emailed the guys at Tony Tool to see if I could get a bearing and seal kit from him. Unfortunately he only works with dealers. But they had some great advice and sent me the following part numbers for the seals and bearings. The seal kit will have to be purchased from Maytag but the bearings can come from a local bearing supplier like NAPA. I will attach a link to the Tony Tool web site that has a great video of how to disassemble the washer and replace the bearings. You do not need the Tony Tool to get the bearings out. I used a piece of small dia. pipe and drove the rear bearing out first and the then the front. Below is the link and the reply from the guys at Tony Tool.
I would recommend using the seal kit from Maytag. I bought a kit from Bee Smart eezway and I am having some problems with the seal. I am going to replace that seal with one from Maytag unless someone can give me an idea of what may be wrong.
The job takes about 2-3 hours and is not that difficult. The Tony Tool video is was a great help.
Good Luck
http://www.tonytool.com/page3.htm
GET THIS PART SEAL KIT MAYTAG NU. 12002022
FROM LOCAL MAYTAG DEALER OR ON LINE
THEN GO GET A BIG HAMMER AND A PIECE OF PIPE
SIZE TO FIT INSIDE HOLE OF BEARING GAS PIPE STOCK
WORKS THE BEST AND TAKE YOUR TIME WATCH VIDEO
FOR POINTERS DRIVE OUT REAR BEARING FIRST TAKE
SPACER OUT THEN DRIVE FRONT BEARING OUT
WHEN PUTTING TOGETHER PUT REAR BEARING IN FIRST
THEN PUT SPACER IN FRONT HOLD IT IN THERE CENTERING
IT WITH A HOMEMADE WOODEN DOUWEL ROD DRIVE THE FRONT
BEARING IN JUST TILL IT TOUCHES PUSH OUT WOODEN ROD
THEN YOU GOT IT MADE O I ALMOST FORGOT THE BEARINGS
YOU CAN GET LOCAL AT A BEARING DIST OR JUST GO TO
NAPA AUTO PARTS AND GET A 6207-2RS AND A 6206-2RS
SORRY I DON'T RENT THE TOOL AND I DON'T HAVE A
MAYTAG DEALER CONTACT IN YOUR AREA BUT I CAN
TELL YOU LOTS OF HOME OWNERS DID IT LIKE THIS WITH THE
HELP OF VIDEO MY SEAL KIT I OFFER IS A INCENTIVE
FOR THESE MAYTAG DIST TO BUY THE TOOL I DON'T
REALLY DO HOME OWNERS BUT IF YOU CANT FIND
THE SEAL AND BEARINGS I MINT BE ABLE TO HELP
BUT IF YOUR MECHANICAL YOU CAN DO THIS
Hi..
Happy New Year!
We have a Neptune washer, (the 3000 model) that is just 9 years old. At 3 years the wax motor/door lock/control panel issue happened..which Maytag DID cover parts & we paid the service call. Now we have the drum bearing problem and it is getting noisier by the load. My husband is totally willing to try & fix it (he can fix just about anything) & after looking at new washers & dryers today..he is motivated! I am guessing that we also have the problem with the leaking seal.
So...while he has the thing torn apart..what parts should he replace & where is the best place to get them? He won't need any tools.
Thanks!
I would recommend using the seal kit from Maytag. I bought a kit from Bee Smart eezway and I am having some problems with the seal. I am going to replace that seal with one from Maytag unless someone can give me an idea of what may be wrong.
The job takes about 2-3 hours and is not that difficult. The Tony Tool video is was a great help.
Good Luck
http://www.tonytool.com/page3.htm
GET THIS PART SEAL KIT MAYTAG NU. 12002022
FROM LOCAL MAYTAG DEALER OR ON LINE
THEN GO GET A BIG HAMMER AND A PIECE OF PIPE
SIZE TO FIT INSIDE HOLE OF BEARING GAS PIPE STOCK
WORKS THE BEST AND TAKE YOUR TIME WATCH VIDEO
FOR POINTERS DRIVE OUT REAR BEARING FIRST TAKE
SPACER OUT THEN DRIVE FRONT BEARING OUT
WHEN PUTTING TOGETHER PUT REAR BEARING IN FIRST
THEN PUT SPACER IN FRONT HOLD IT IN THERE CENTERING
IT WITH A HOMEMADE WOODEN DOUWEL ROD DRIVE THE FRONT
BEARING IN JUST TILL IT TOUCHES PUSH OUT WOODEN ROD
THEN YOU GOT IT MADE O I ALMOST FORGOT THE BEARINGS
YOU CAN GET LOCAL AT A BEARING DIST OR JUST GO TO
NAPA AUTO PARTS AND GET A 6207-2RS AND A 6206-2RS
SORRY I DON'T RENT THE TOOL AND I DON'T HAVE A
MAYTAG DEALER CONTACT IN YOUR AREA BUT I CAN
TELL YOU LOTS OF HOME OWNERS DID IT LIKE THIS WITH THE
HELP OF VIDEO MY SEAL KIT I OFFER IS A INCENTIVE
FOR THESE MAYTAG DIST TO BUY THE TOOL I DON'T
REALLY DO HOME OWNERS BUT IF YOU CANT FIND
THE SEAL AND BEARINGS I MINT BE ABLE TO HELP
BUT IF YOUR MECHANICAL YOU CAN DO THIS
Hi..
Happy New Year!
We have a Neptune washer, (the 3000 model) that is just 9 years old. At 3 years the wax motor/door lock/control panel issue happened..which Maytag DID cover parts & we paid the service call. Now we have the drum bearing problem and it is getting noisier by the load. My husband is totally willing to try & fix it (he can fix just about anything) & after looking at new washers & dryers today..he is motivated! I am guessing that we also have the problem with the leaking seal.
So...while he has the thing torn apart..what parts should he replace & where is the best place to get them? He won't need any tools.
Thanks!
gardenmaniac
01-02-07, 12:47 PM
Thanks for the info..
I did just order the seal kit (part number 12002022 for $36.74) and went ahead & ordered a new belt (part number 12001788 for $16.82) while we were at it..genuine Maytag parts from pcapplianceparts.com (actually called the order in to be sure I was ordering the right thing.)..6.25 for shipping from Oklahoma to Michigan..
Ordered bearings from a local auto parts store..$18 & $12..thanks for the numbers.
I will update this after the repair..
thanks!
I have considered the possibility of purchasing the model 5500 Neptune (if this doesn't work) as one of the big box stores has them...at least it will match my dryer (sort of) and will be less than spending $$$ for a new pair plus the pedastals which I would buy if buying all new stuff.... does anyone know if this model has upgraded any of the old issues?
I did just order the seal kit (part number 12002022 for $36.74) and went ahead & ordered a new belt (part number 12001788 for $16.82) while we were at it..genuine Maytag parts from pcapplianceparts.com (actually called the order in to be sure I was ordering the right thing.)..6.25 for shipping from Oklahoma to Michigan..
Ordered bearings from a local auto parts store..$18 & $12..thanks for the numbers.
I will update this after the repair..
thanks!
I have considered the possibility of purchasing the model 5500 Neptune (if this doesn't work) as one of the big box stores has them...at least it will match my dryer (sort of) and will be less than spending $$$ for a new pair plus the pedastals which I would buy if buying all new stuff.... does anyone know if this model has upgraded any of the old issues?
gdoug
01-02-07, 08:26 PM
I could be wrong but I think the neptune washer is no longer made. Maytag released the new Neptune just before Whirlpool acquired Maytag. The new Matag Epic front loader is built by Whirlpool. Whirlpool transferred the Kitchen Aid front loading laundry line to Maytag. I have heard nothing good about the Neptune or any of Maytag's recently made products for that matter. It seems like all of them are problematic at best. Hopefully Whirlpool will improve the quality of the Maytag line or discontinue production of their problematic designs.
gardenmaniac
01-08-07, 08:08 AM
Ok..
My Neptune now has new bearings! I have run a few loads & everything seems fine. (of course ANY sound it makes now I am trying to remember if that's normal or not)
In the near future we will post some additional tips/comments about the job. My husband watched the Tony Tool video.. (hmmm...) and it did give him ideas on how to make his own pulling tool...but it took some pounding as well...he did do the job with the inner tub still in the machine. The directions that came with the seal kit were awesome & he did less take apart of the front door & seal than they did on the video.
One other thing I will mention at this point is how disgusting the inner tub was! We do have rusty water, which in itself looks bad, but there was black slimy stuff at the front edge, by the drain & in the area by the bearing, way back into those pointed areas...yuk! To think I was putting my clothes in there to get clean!
Thank you everyone for all your helpful info!
My Neptune now has new bearings! I have run a few loads & everything seems fine. (of course ANY sound it makes now I am trying to remember if that's normal or not)
In the near future we will post some additional tips/comments about the job. My husband watched the Tony Tool video.. (hmmm...) and it did give him ideas on how to make his own pulling tool...but it took some pounding as well...he did do the job with the inner tub still in the machine. The directions that came with the seal kit were awesome & he did less take apart of the front door & seal than they did on the video.
One other thing I will mention at this point is how disgusting the inner tub was! We do have rusty water, which in itself looks bad, but there was black slimy stuff at the front edge, by the drain & in the area by the bearing, way back into those pointed areas...yuk! To think I was putting my clothes in there to get clean!
Thank you everyone for all your helpful info!
gardenmaniac
01-09-07, 07:55 AM
Well..the washer did 2 loads..then when I opened up the door..the clothes were sopping wet...took them out..tested the cycles...sounds like the belt came off the back..we did put a new one on and it fit very tight...but also, the drum sounds "rough" at the front where it rides against that brush...and there were pieces of that in the washer....I wonder if it is not laying flat after putting it back together...hubby NOT happy & ready to sledge hammer the thing...he might attempt to put the old belt back on..but I don't know if I can convince him to take the front apart or not...anyone else had an issue with that brush seal thing?
bilbojr
01-09-07, 08:25 AM
Sorry to hear you are having problems. Neptunes sure are challenging, aren't they? Are you sure it went together correctly? I didn't have trouble with the "brush" when I did my repair. Mine is still humming along. No problems, knock on wood!
piperp
01-09-07, 06:13 PM
Same here, Sorry to hear you are having troubles. I also had no problems with the front. I would recommend take the front apart and double checking.
gardenmaniac
01-11-07, 06:32 PM
Well..hubby checked out the Neptune..again..the back pulley had come loose/off & so he tightened it back up & put the belt back on..I couldn't get him to take the front off...so I ran 3 more loads..there is still bits of plastic stuff in the washer..like the brush has melted and come apart & after load 3, there is now water on the floor..hubby said "go shopping.. I'm done"...
so..I guess I am going to purchase something else..
Anone have any idea on what they would buy in a new front loader? I am trying to decide if I should go with a Whirlpool or Fridgidaire...I am NOT going to spend big bucks again..so anything over $800 is out...
so..I guess I am going to purchase something else..
Anone have any idea on what they would buy in a new front loader? I am trying to decide if I should go with a Whirlpool or Fridgidaire...I am NOT going to spend big bucks again..so anything over $800 is out...
bilbojr
01-11-07, 10:11 PM
Another Maytag Neptune: R.I.P.
gardenmaniac
01-15-07, 07:42 AM
Bought a Bosch Nexxt 300 Washer...it's home & washing....so far so good.
angel6353
01-16-07, 03:08 PM
I think that the new belt is the cause of fault -2" short (old one is 54"- New 52")
This creates great side tension to the bearings and also sending tub out of alignment (evidence-seal leaking). Eventually the bearings or the motor bearings will go out.
I try to find the correct belt, even call the old manufacturer (new belt is from new manufacture) but they discontinued production of this belt. I am continue to use my 8 years old belt but don’t know for how long
Well..the washer did 2 loads..then when I opened up the door..the clothes were sopping wet...took them out..tested the cycles...sounds like the belt came off the back..we did put a new one on and it fit very tight...but also, the drum sounds "rough" at the front where it rides against that brush...and there were pieces of that in the washer....I wonder if it is not laying flat after putting it back together...hubby NOT happy & ready to sledge hammer the thing...he might attempt to put the old belt back on..but I don't know if I can convince him to take the front apart or not...anyone else had an issue with that brush seal thing?
This creates great side tension to the bearings and also sending tub out of alignment (evidence-seal leaking). Eventually the bearings or the motor bearings will go out.
I try to find the correct belt, even call the old manufacturer (new belt is from new manufacture) but they discontinued production of this belt. I am continue to use my 8 years old belt but don’t know for how long
Well..the washer did 2 loads..then when I opened up the door..the clothes were sopping wet...took them out..tested the cycles...sounds like the belt came off the back..we did put a new one on and it fit very tight...but also, the drum sounds "rough" at the front where it rides against that brush...and there were pieces of that in the washer....I wonder if it is not laying flat after putting it back together...hubby NOT happy & ready to sledge hammer the thing...he might attempt to put the old belt back on..but I don't know if I can convince him to take the front apart or not...anyone else had an issue with that brush seal thing?
JFLK
01-23-07, 09:07 PM
I just repaired my washer Model#:MAH3000AWW last week, but now my dryer model#:MDG3000AWW is making noise while pressing the start button, but the machine will not start. I tried turning the drum manually and it is hard to make it turn. However, when I removed the front cover as well as the part that attached with the lint filter which also connect or cover the fan/blower and then try manual turning and it was truning freely without any noise. I checked the gliding pads and they seem to be fine, but was not sure what's holding or if there is any gliding pads near the rear of the drum. If there is no clothes loaded in the machine or only a few pieces, then the machine is spinning except a little noise at first when the start button is press.
I would greatly appreciate any feedback.
Fong
I would greatly appreciate any feedback.
Fong
angel6353
01-24-07, 07:23 PM
I just replaced my washer bearings (it took me 45minutes), but the parts cost $51.49 and $24.99 from "NAPA".
Perhaps you bought wrong parts.
My washer is working perfect.
I did just order the seal kit (part number 12002022 for $36.74) and went ahead & ordered a new belt (part number 12001788 for $16.82) while we were at it..genuine Maytag parts from pcapplianceparts.com (actually called the order in to be sure I was ordering the right thing.)..6.25 for shipping from Oklahoma to Michigan..
Ordered bearings from a local auto parts store..$18 & $12..thanks for the numbers.
Perhaps you bought wrong parts.
My washer is working perfect.
I did just order the seal kit (part number 12002022 for $36.74) and went ahead & ordered a new belt (part number 12001788 for $16.82) while we were at it..genuine Maytag parts from pcapplianceparts.com (actually called the order in to be sure I was ordering the right thing.)..6.25 for shipping from Oklahoma to Michigan..
Ordered bearings from a local auto parts store..$18 & $12..thanks for the numbers.
gardenmaniac
01-25-07, 06:54 PM
I have not checked this board for a few weeks as after buying the new washer I was trying to forget the wasted day's efforts and $100...
I do think that the new belt was probably the cause of death for my Neptune...the bearings were correct..they were the ones that everyone said to get...(I am thinking that pricing is just different in different parts of the USA and different stores)
I am pretty frustrated as we did not NEED a new belt..just was trying to be proactive..and yes..the new belt was VERY tight..it makes sense that it was pulling the drum out of allignment..that would account for the plastic brush pieces that were in the washer...too much pressure against that brush....should have put the old one on and maybe it would still be running...anyway..my neptune is in the back garage...going to put it on e-bay one of these days for parts...
Maybe it can still be repaired by someone who is willing to tear it apart again..but now the old belt in in the landfill somewhere..and the only way my hubby is going to touch the thing again is when it's on its way out the door....
Good luck and hope someone learns from this to NOT replace the belt!
I do like my new Bosch 300 so far...
I do think that the new belt was probably the cause of death for my Neptune...the bearings were correct..they were the ones that everyone said to get...(I am thinking that pricing is just different in different parts of the USA and different stores)
I am pretty frustrated as we did not NEED a new belt..just was trying to be proactive..and yes..the new belt was VERY tight..it makes sense that it was pulling the drum out of allignment..that would account for the plastic brush pieces that were in the washer...too much pressure against that brush....should have put the old one on and maybe it would still be running...anyway..my neptune is in the back garage...going to put it on e-bay one of these days for parts...
Maybe it can still be repaired by someone who is willing to tear it apart again..but now the old belt in in the landfill somewhere..and the only way my hubby is going to touch the thing again is when it's on its way out the door....
Good luck and hope someone learns from this to NOT replace the belt!
I do like my new Bosch 300 so far...
salusa
02-02-07, 04:10 PM
Hello, to all the maytag neptune satisfied cowners lol.
Ok, I found this page while trying to find out how to do bearings and seals on our neptune. I pretty much got the washer and dryer for free about 6 months ago one my mother decided that she rather keep the top load maytag washer than to have something that look nicer and more moder so she let me have the set. I had seen them in the sear's store before and seem nice reminded me of the fron heavy duty front loader I use to use in laudrymats. Well after about 2 month the water pump when out on the washer and 2 weeks latter the igniter on the dryer. I was not feeling like doing the work my self so I call a technician to fixed them. 200 dollars for the pump and 100 dollars for the igniter latter The dryer work fine however the washer sound it terrible the dreaded center bearing so I called the tech again and he confirmed that it was the bearing also told me that I should call maytag to see if they would deal with the problem it was obvious he did not want to have the headache to deal with it he did not even want to quote me to fixed it. So It was time for me to deal with the problem I thought about purchansing a new washer however then I would have to purchace a dryer to have a matching set and even if I just purchase the washer I was looking to spend well over $800 dollars. So I took the pludge and purchase the seal kit on ebay for $35 and the bearings for $15 both. It took some pounding on the old bearing one came out piece by piece but eventually they came out and the new bearings and seal whent in. Ohh how glad that was over. or was it lol.Well it seem that now the timer stops at the begining of the rinse cycle and the washer turn off however if I turn it back on the cycle continues and since I don't feel like baby sitting the machine I would like to know if anyone had a similar situation and what was the repair/answer. Since I am getting near the half way mark of the cost of a new washer I want to consider the repair cost and then decide to keep it or trash it. Which bring me to since these new maytags are nothing like the old model what other washer would you guys recomend. Thanks
Ok, I found this page while trying to find out how to do bearings and seals on our neptune. I pretty much got the washer and dryer for free about 6 months ago one my mother decided that she rather keep the top load maytag washer than to have something that look nicer and more moder so she let me have the set. I had seen them in the sear's store before and seem nice reminded me of the fron heavy duty front loader I use to use in laudrymats. Well after about 2 month the water pump when out on the washer and 2 weeks latter the igniter on the dryer. I was not feeling like doing the work my self so I call a technician to fixed them. 200 dollars for the pump and 100 dollars for the igniter latter The dryer work fine however the washer sound it terrible the dreaded center bearing so I called the tech again and he confirmed that it was the bearing also told me that I should call maytag to see if they would deal with the problem it was obvious he did not want to have the headache to deal with it he did not even want to quote me to fixed it. So It was time for me to deal with the problem I thought about purchansing a new washer however then I would have to purchace a dryer to have a matching set and even if I just purchase the washer I was looking to spend well over $800 dollars. So I took the pludge and purchase the seal kit on ebay for $35 and the bearings for $15 both. It took some pounding on the old bearing one came out piece by piece but eventually they came out and the new bearings and seal whent in. Ohh how glad that was over. or was it lol.Well it seem that now the timer stops at the begining of the rinse cycle and the washer turn off however if I turn it back on the cycle continues and since I don't feel like baby sitting the machine I would like to know if anyone had a similar situation and what was the repair/answer. Since I am getting near the half way mark of the cost of a new washer I want to consider the repair cost and then decide to keep it or trash it. Which bring me to since these new maytags are nothing like the old model what other washer would you guys recomend. Thanks
Get R Done
03-17-07, 02:03 PM
I seen a solution to this problem at www.neptunewaxmotor.com , in the FAQ section.
This is caused from the water inlet screens getting clogged up over time. If the Neptune does not fill up in time, approx. 6 minutes, it shuts down. Shut off the water supply, remove hoses and look up into the water inlets and pull out the build up from the screens... I hope this helps...
This is caused from the water inlet screens getting clogged up over time. If the Neptune does not fill up in time, approx. 6 minutes, it shuts down. Shut off the water supply, remove hoses and look up into the water inlets and pull out the build up from the screens... I hope this helps...
wingnut1995
03-20-07, 11:24 AM
Well it looks like I have been bit by the "bad bearing" problem with my Neptune washer (MAW3000AWW). Its 8 or 9 years old so its not unexpected based on what I've read here. I've ordered the seal kit from repairclinic.com (Maytag # 12002022). I went to NAPA to get the bearings but the costs were out of sight. The 6206-2RS was $27 and the 6207-2RS was $59. Ouch! I passed on them and did a little internet searching. I found the same bearings (6206-2RS and 6207-2RS) from VBX Bearing for $4.95 and $9.95 (thats right...$5 and $10!!!). Shipping will be a few bucks on top of that. The web site is http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc. The bearings have dimensions of 30x62x16 and 35x72x17 when you search the site.
I also did some checking on a new drive belt. The one that Maytag "replaced" the original 22002040 belt with is 2" shorter (part #12001788) and won't work without a bunch of other mods. I did find a used belt on ebay for $5 but passed on it. I think I may have found a supplier for them. If it pans out, I'll pass that info along in my next post.
Now I wait for the parts and do the deed! I'll let everyone know what happens!
I also did some checking on a new drive belt. The one that Maytag "replaced" the original 22002040 belt with is 2" shorter (part #12001788) and won't work without a bunch of other mods. I did find a used belt on ebay for $5 but passed on it. I think I may have found a supplier for them. If it pans out, I'll pass that info along in my next post.
Now I wait for the parts and do the deed! I'll let everyone know what happens!
wingnut1995
03-29-07, 07:51 PM
Well the washer is fixed. It took me about 3 hours but I also replaced the Door Boot (seal) while I was at it. The old one was covered with mildew. Getting the shaft driven back out of the old bearings was a chore. The bearings had rusted to the shaft. A large (5#) hammer did the job however. The new VBX bearings (see previous post) are working like a champ...quiet and smooth. All together I had just over $100 in the parts (w/ the cheap bearings). I hope it lasts for a while!
leewpeter
06-18-07, 12:53 PM
Thanks for all great insight and tips... :)
Summary to be done - per all the great threads -
Order the following Parts -
Lip Seal Kit - $32.00 Maytag # 12002022 from
http://repairclinic.com or http://www.partselect.com/
Order the Large and small bearings - $15.00
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
6206-2RS Bearing 30x62x16 Sealed
6207-2RS Bearing 35x72x17 Sealed
Download the manual from
http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/16010061new.pdf
Watch the video
http://www.tonytool.com/page3.htm
Tools needed:
Hammer / Mallet
Needle nose pliers
grease
Dowel/Bearing puller/Tony's tool
Summary to be done - per all the great threads -
Order the following Parts -
Lip Seal Kit - $32.00 Maytag # 12002022 from
http://repairclinic.com or http://www.partselect.com/
Order the Large and small bearings - $15.00
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
6206-2RS Bearing 30x62x16 Sealed
6207-2RS Bearing 35x72x17 Sealed
Download the manual from
http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/16010061new.pdf
Watch the video
http://www.tonytool.com/page3.htm
Tools needed:
Hammer / Mallet
Needle nose pliers
grease
Dowel/Bearing puller/Tony's tool
sched
06-22-07, 08:34 PM
Can anyone tell me if the bearing numbers and seal part number in the previous posts are the same for the MAH5500 Neptune front load washers?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
permacrisis
06-29-07, 11:28 PM
You guys are taking some major chances on these bearing jobs.
The whole hammering thing has me spooked. Neptune outer tubs are VERY brittle, they often crack when jarred from simply being unloaded off a moving truck. I've obtained several insurance claim parts units that way.
Sympathetic spiderweb cracking of the RECYCLED low grade plastic during all this hammering, is a very real possibility. Instead, be as minimally invasive as possible.
Wet up some autobody #1000 'wetordry' sandpaper (the black kind) and with the pulley off, wrap it around the shaft and grip it tight. Spin the drum, gripping the wet paper as close to the back bearing as you can to clear the shaft of rust. Keep going even after the shaft is clean, producing a gray film. You are reducing the shaft diameter ever so slightly. Wipe it dry, and then oil it.
Tap it out with the block of wood like these other guys said. I found that if you or better yet, another person takes weight off the bearings by lifting the front of the drum a little bit, the shaft generally pops right out without the struggle others have described.
Once it's out, hook your seals out and set them off to the side. Now comes the fun part. But first a word: If you are careful about the next step you can sometimes save the plastic spacer. If you do wreck the spacer, just use electrical PVC conduit cut EXACTLY the same length when the thing goes back together. Do a good job if you do this. Square it up and deburr it on a belt sander, the side of a grinding wheel, or (no kidding) some nice smooth precast concrete steps.
Buy a tungsten carbide coated hacksaw blade for around ten bucks and snap it in two. Mount one half in a sawzall and blast right thru the bearing inner races, taking the bearings apart in sections. Balls are going to go flying everywhere, so be ready to vacuum 'em up. I shove a facecloth in the tub drain. The bearing steel is HARD and a plain ol' sawzall blade isn't going to work in any kind of a time frame.
I know it sounds hack. And there is the smell. But there is no shock to the basket, and no chance of a missed swing and disaster! Cutting out the outer races will be trickier, because you don't want to nick the area where the seals bed down. Most times even if you do gouge the spacer you can reuse it without ill effect.
Reassembly couldn't be easier. You clean up the aluminum with a nice fresh piece of that autobody paper, then LIGHTLY coat the inside with Permatex P/N 80078 Anti Seize Lubricant.
If you patiently disassemble the front bearing first, then the rear one, you don't need to take the tub out. You can work on it in place.
To draw the bearings into the bore, just use a big giant bolt, nut, and two big washers from a tractor store. Pipe flanges work when you can't find big washers. Make cotton picking sure you put that spacer and or equivalent back in there before bearing #2, though!!!
The whole hammering thing has me spooked. Neptune outer tubs are VERY brittle, they often crack when jarred from simply being unloaded off a moving truck. I've obtained several insurance claim parts units that way.
Sympathetic spiderweb cracking of the RECYCLED low grade plastic during all this hammering, is a very real possibility. Instead, be as minimally invasive as possible.
Wet up some autobody #1000 'wetordry' sandpaper (the black kind) and with the pulley off, wrap it around the shaft and grip it tight. Spin the drum, gripping the wet paper as close to the back bearing as you can to clear the shaft of rust. Keep going even after the shaft is clean, producing a gray film. You are reducing the shaft diameter ever so slightly. Wipe it dry, and then oil it.
Tap it out with the block of wood like these other guys said. I found that if you or better yet, another person takes weight off the bearings by lifting the front of the drum a little bit, the shaft generally pops right out without the struggle others have described.
Once it's out, hook your seals out and set them off to the side. Now comes the fun part. But first a word: If you are careful about the next step you can sometimes save the plastic spacer. If you do wreck the spacer, just use electrical PVC conduit cut EXACTLY the same length when the thing goes back together. Do a good job if you do this. Square it up and deburr it on a belt sander, the side of a grinding wheel, or (no kidding) some nice smooth precast concrete steps.
Buy a tungsten carbide coated hacksaw blade for around ten bucks and snap it in two. Mount one half in a sawzall and blast right thru the bearing inner races, taking the bearings apart in sections. Balls are going to go flying everywhere, so be ready to vacuum 'em up. I shove a facecloth in the tub drain. The bearing steel is HARD and a plain ol' sawzall blade isn't going to work in any kind of a time frame.
I know it sounds hack. And there is the smell. But there is no shock to the basket, and no chance of a missed swing and disaster! Cutting out the outer races will be trickier, because you don't want to nick the area where the seals bed down. Most times even if you do gouge the spacer you can reuse it without ill effect.
Reassembly couldn't be easier. You clean up the aluminum with a nice fresh piece of that autobody paper, then LIGHTLY coat the inside with Permatex P/N 80078 Anti Seize Lubricant.
If you patiently disassemble the front bearing first, then the rear one, you don't need to take the tub out. You can work on it in place.
To draw the bearings into the bore, just use a big giant bolt, nut, and two big washers from a tractor store. Pipe flanges work when you can't find big washers. Make cotton picking sure you put that spacer and or equivalent back in there before bearing #2, though!!!
permacrisis
07-16-07, 09:29 PM
Can anyone tell me if the bearing numbers and seal part number in the previous posts are the same for the MAH5500 Neptune front load washers?
Thanks in advance.
I just stripped another (dropped and smashed) MAH5500BWW. I can vouch for the bearings being the same dimensions and part numbers. The seal is too mangled to tell. I have a new one someplace that I will take down to my guy and match up--more on that in a minute. The seal IS the same OD & ID as the big bearing, if that helps at all.
Maytag must be paying 3 bucks apiece for their bearings, b/c they all seem to be stamped from eastern bloc countries (and last only a year). They probably lube 'em with the oilpan dregs from blown-up tanks...
The seal seems a pretty common automotive seal. You find it used as an axle seal on the rear differentials of some Japanese part-time 4wd 's, and also sometimes as a camshaft seal. It's really meant for oil, not water. I suspect it could be dug up pretty quickly-- I will give it a shot. Check back here in 2 days... permacrisis
Thanks in advance.
I just stripped another (dropped and smashed) MAH5500BWW. I can vouch for the bearings being the same dimensions and part numbers. The seal is too mangled to tell. I have a new one someplace that I will take down to my guy and match up--more on that in a minute. The seal IS the same OD & ID as the big bearing, if that helps at all.
Maytag must be paying 3 bucks apiece for their bearings, b/c they all seem to be stamped from eastern bloc countries (and last only a year). They probably lube 'em with the oilpan dregs from blown-up tanks...
The seal seems a pretty common automotive seal. You find it used as an axle seal on the rear differentials of some Japanese part-time 4wd 's, and also sometimes as a camshaft seal. It's really meant for oil, not water. I suspect it could be dug up pretty quickly-- I will give it a shot. Check back here in 2 days... permacrisis
permacrisis
07-24-07, 09:36 AM
Hold that thought- measurements are NOT the same as the bearing, due to the steel collar that goes over the shaft. Spoke too soon. My mistake!
The factory seal appears to be 72 by 42 or 43. The 72 OD is nominal because the outside is ribbed as high as 75mm, for a force fit. It is mfg ATP #16 . The seal is designed to hold back water both axially and radially.
There is no spring in the seal so the lips cannot tolerate much runout. I could machine a hockey puck down and it would do the same job.
I am looking into a 72 x 42 Timken replacement seal that should last at least 2 years when installed spring side toward the rear of the washer. I will try it in my test machine.
The factory seal appears to be 72 by 42 or 43. The 72 OD is nominal because the outside is ribbed as high as 75mm, for a force fit. It is mfg ATP #16 . The seal is designed to hold back water both axially and radially.
There is no spring in the seal so the lips cannot tolerate much runout. I could machine a hockey puck down and it would do the same job.
I am looking into a 72 x 42 Timken replacement seal that should last at least 2 years when installed spring side toward the rear of the washer. I will try it in my test machine.
chrisgabor
08-29-07, 07:59 AM
Hello,
I'm just starting the replacement project on MAH3000AWW. Ordered the bearings, getting the seal kit but I'm missing the service manual. I tried the site http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/16010061new.pdf but it seems to be down.
I was wondering if anyone out there has the manual in pdf format and would not mind to e-mail it to me.
Thanks.
chris
I'm just starting the replacement project on MAH3000AWW. Ordered the bearings, getting the seal kit but I'm missing the service manual. I tried the site http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/16010061new.pdf but it seems to be down.
I was wondering if anyone out there has the manual in pdf format and would not mind to e-mail it to me.
Thanks.
chris
DIYaddict
08-29-07, 02:35 PM
See if this will help you out:
http://appliancejunk.com/manuals/neptunewasher3000.pdf
BTW: Welcome to the DoItYourself.com forums :)
http://appliancejunk.com/manuals/neptunewasher3000.pdf
BTW: Welcome to the DoItYourself.com forums :)
yardisiak
09-12-07, 05:12 PM
I just got a replacement belt for my Maytag mah3000aww because the belt fell off. I assumed it was warped but now the new one does the same. It does not appear the pulley and motor are aligned properly. Anyone have any tips for me?
Thanks
Thanks
Allanito
10-23-07, 05:52 PM
Thanks to help here and the Tony Tool video, I replaced the inner and outer bearings in my MAH3000AWW Maytag Neptune. I'm hoping it lasts another 8 years or more. The local CenterPoint Energy repair service I paid monthly for, simply said to buy a new one. I try to avoid the throw away society.
I arranged a bearing puller with:
a 1/2" bolt through an approx 21mm socket which pushed against the inner side of the outer bearing,
through the bearing and though a 1" long piece of 3" pipe which rested on metal bearing housing, through a 4" (about) pulley which covered the pipe, through a nut to tighten the whole affair up which pulls the bearing out. It took a hard twist with a 15" wrench.
A simular setup to pull the new bearings into the housing. The spinner shaft and inner bearings took a good whack with a 5# hammer.
I have pictures of everything if anyone needs a look. I believe this is easily done with professional skills and tools, and many handy, somewhat mechanical or really motivated people could do this. Cost: bearings from Gopher Bearings, St Paul, MN (very standard sizes) $40, lip seal $50.
Allan
Here's my SPAM hidden address: 8 letters: r e s p o n s e ....
that at symbol....
4 letters : v i s i
dot
c o m
I arranged a bearing puller with:
a 1/2" bolt through an approx 21mm socket which pushed against the inner side of the outer bearing,
through the bearing and though a 1" long piece of 3" pipe which rested on metal bearing housing, through a 4" (about) pulley which covered the pipe, through a nut to tighten the whole affair up which pulls the bearing out. It took a hard twist with a 15" wrench.
A simular setup to pull the new bearings into the housing. The spinner shaft and inner bearings took a good whack with a 5# hammer.
I have pictures of everything if anyone needs a look. I believe this is easily done with professional skills and tools, and many handy, somewhat mechanical or really motivated people could do this. Cost: bearings from Gopher Bearings, St Paul, MN (very standard sizes) $40, lip seal $50.
Allan
Here's my SPAM hidden address: 8 letters: r e s p o n s e ....
that at symbol....
4 letters : v i s i
dot
c o m
rusticredcedar
02-13-08, 05:08 PM
OK So I got the old bearings out...but in the process cracked the spacer...any idea on where/how to get this spacer?
Neptune Helper
03-28-08, 07:30 PM
You can go to www.neptunewaxmotor.com site for the replacement bearings and the 12002022 seal kit.
roy11716
06-15-08, 02:45 PM
I have the Maytage MAH4000aww model washer. After I replaced the hub seal the machine performed well for a couple of washes. Now in spin the tube reaches top speed then cuts off. It acts as though the machine thinks the load is unbalanced. I disabled the three load switches (shorted the circuit out of the loop) but the machine still does not maintain top spin speed for more then 5 sec. Any ideas as to what or where I should look for problems?
pugsl
06-15-08, 05:28 PM
Take front off and right front corner is a control board. look at board carefully to see if you have a burnt resistor. If you do you need a motor and control board kit. Lots of problems with these machines. Read back through treads and see all that can go wrong.
Neptune Helper
08-24-08, 08:34 AM
Introducing - The Tony Tool rental program.
See www.neptunebearing.com for information regarding the rental of the Tony Tool. This revolutionary tool will save you time on your Maytag neptune bearing replacement.
You can also rent the original Tony Tool demonstration DVD since it was yanked off google video recently. This is the original 13+ minute video that starts with Shirley removing the first Neptune screw. Now, there is a new 5 minute video on YouTube that shows just the Tony Tool operation.
If you are not sure how to disassemble your Neptune for the bearing replacement then I would reccommend renting the DVD. In addition, the picture will be much clearer and larger than the Google video anyway...
I emailed the guys at Tony Tool to see if I could get a bearing and seal kit from him. Unfortunately he only works with dealers. But they had some great advice and sent me the following part numbers for the seals and bearings. The seal kit will have to be purchased from Maytag but the bearings can come from a local bearing supplier like NAPA. I will attach a link to the Tony Tool web site that has a great video of how to disassemble the washer and replace the bearings. You do not need the Tony Tool to get the bearings out. I used a piece of small dia. pipe and drove the rear bearing out first and the then the front. Below is the link and the reply from the guys at Tony Tool.
I would recommend using the seal kit from Maytag. I bought a kit from Bee Smart eezway and I am having some problems with the seal. I am going to replace that seal with one from Maytag unless someone can give me an idea of what may be wrong.
The job takes about 2-3 hours and is not that difficult. The Tony Tool video is was a great help.
Good Luck
http://www.tonytool.com/page3.htm
GET THIS PART SEAL KIT MAYTAG NU. 12002022
FROM LOCAL MAYTAG DEALER OR ON LINE
THEN GO GET A BIG HAMMER AND A PIECE OF PIPE
SIZE TO FIT INSIDE HOLE OF BEARING GAS PIPE STOCK
WORKS THE BEST AND TAKE YOUR TIME WATCH VIDEO
FOR POINTERS DRIVE OUT REAR BEARING FIRST TAKE
SPACER OUT THEN DRIVE FRONT BEARING OUT
WHEN PUTTING TOGETHER PUT REAR BEARING IN FIRST
THEN PUT SPACER IN FRONT HOLD IT IN THERE CENTERING
IT WITH A HOMEMADE WOODEN DOUWEL ROD DRIVE THE FRONT
BEARING IN JUST TILL IT TOUCHES PUSH OUT WOODEN ROD
THEN YOU GOT IT MADE O I ALMOST FORGOT THE BEARINGS
YOU CAN GET LOCAL AT A BEARING DIST OR JUST GO TO
NAPA AUTO PARTS AND GET A 6207-2RS AND A 6206-2RS
SORRY I DON'T RENT THE TOOL AND I DON'T HAVE A
MAYTAG DEALER CONTACT IN YOUR AREA BUT I CAN
TELL YOU LOTS OF HOME OWNERS DID IT LIKE THIS WITH THE
HELP OF VIDEO MY SEAL KIT I OFFER IS A INCENTIVE
FOR THESE MAYTAG DIST TO BUY THE TOOL I DON'T
REALLY DO HOME OWNERS BUT IF YOU CANT FIND
THE SEAL AND BEARINGS I MINT BE ABLE TO HELP
BUT IF YOUR MECHANICAL YOU CAN DO THIS
See www.neptunebearing.com for information regarding the rental of the Tony Tool. This revolutionary tool will save you time on your Maytag neptune bearing replacement.
You can also rent the original Tony Tool demonstration DVD since it was yanked off google video recently. This is the original 13+ minute video that starts with Shirley removing the first Neptune screw. Now, there is a new 5 minute video on YouTube that shows just the Tony Tool operation.
If you are not sure how to disassemble your Neptune for the bearing replacement then I would reccommend renting the DVD. In addition, the picture will be much clearer and larger than the Google video anyway...
I emailed the guys at Tony Tool to see if I could get a bearing and seal kit from him. Unfortunately he only works with dealers. But they had some great advice and sent me the following part numbers for the seals and bearings. The seal kit will have to be purchased from Maytag but the bearings can come from a local bearing supplier like NAPA. I will attach a link to the Tony Tool web site that has a great video of how to disassemble the washer and replace the bearings. You do not need the Tony Tool to get the bearings out. I used a piece of small dia. pipe and drove the rear bearing out first and the then the front. Below is the link and the reply from the guys at Tony Tool.
I would recommend using the seal kit from Maytag. I bought a kit from Bee Smart eezway and I am having some problems with the seal. I am going to replace that seal with one from Maytag unless someone can give me an idea of what may be wrong.
The job takes about 2-3 hours and is not that difficult. The Tony Tool video is was a great help.
Good Luck
http://www.tonytool.com/page3.htm
GET THIS PART SEAL KIT MAYTAG NU. 12002022
FROM LOCAL MAYTAG DEALER OR ON LINE
THEN GO GET A BIG HAMMER AND A PIECE OF PIPE
SIZE TO FIT INSIDE HOLE OF BEARING GAS PIPE STOCK
WORKS THE BEST AND TAKE YOUR TIME WATCH VIDEO
FOR POINTERS DRIVE OUT REAR BEARING FIRST TAKE
SPACER OUT THEN DRIVE FRONT BEARING OUT
WHEN PUTTING TOGETHER PUT REAR BEARING IN FIRST
THEN PUT SPACER IN FRONT HOLD IT IN THERE CENTERING
IT WITH A HOMEMADE WOODEN DOUWEL ROD DRIVE THE FRONT
BEARING IN JUST TILL IT TOUCHES PUSH OUT WOODEN ROD
THEN YOU GOT IT MADE O I ALMOST FORGOT THE BEARINGS
YOU CAN GET LOCAL AT A BEARING DIST OR JUST GO TO
NAPA AUTO PARTS AND GET A 6207-2RS AND A 6206-2RS
SORRY I DON'T RENT THE TOOL AND I DON'T HAVE A
MAYTAG DEALER CONTACT IN YOUR AREA BUT I CAN
TELL YOU LOTS OF HOME OWNERS DID IT LIKE THIS WITH THE
HELP OF VIDEO MY SEAL KIT I OFFER IS A INCENTIVE
FOR THESE MAYTAG DIST TO BUY THE TOOL I DON'T
REALLY DO HOME OWNERS BUT IF YOU CANT FIND
THE SEAL AND BEARINGS I MINT BE ABLE TO HELP
BUT IF YOUR MECHANICAL YOU CAN DO THIS
bilbojr
12-02-08, 02:19 PM
My mother's Neptune started acting up so I decided to give Jeff at neptunebearing.com a try using his Tony Tool rental program. I can report the complete transaction from contact to return of tool went very smoothly. The Tony Tool works very well and the included instructions and video make the job almost effortless. I have series of photos I took during my experience and if you PM me I'll send you some pics along with my comments.
kevathome
12-24-08, 02:55 PM
I purchased a neptune 1997, thinking that maytag had such a great reputation with reliability... After 11 years, it is still running - Maytag paid for a control board replacement and a boot for the mold issue, along with a motor (after some arguing with the local service rep on proving it was the motor vs. the control board), it ends up they gave me a new motor with a control board because newer motors are not compatible with older motor control boards. So up until about 1 year ago, I none of my own money into the washer, but had several upgrades/repairs done. About a year ago, I noticed a small leak, that ended up being the boot - small pin hole, not easy to see. This was the boot replaced about 4 or 5 years earlier - this cost me about $50.00. The last 3 or 4 months, I noticed the noise increase, and figured it was the bearings in the tub. It was amazing how much information was out there - thanks to all who have contributed! The parts cost me about $85.00, 45 for the seal kit, 35 for the bearings, and about 5 for threaded rod, nuts and washers to press the bearings in.
This was not an easy job, the bearings do not come out easily, but saving the price of a new washer and dryer (about $2000.00) it was well worth it. I know what you are thinking, why buy a new dryer if there is nothing wrong with it - I had the same question, but my wife made it clear to me that if we needed a new washer, a new dry would be required - who am I to question her :)
It is nice to be able to hear the TV or people talking when the washing machine is running... I hope to get another 5 to 10 years out it, with several new parts.
This was not an easy job, the bearings do not come out easily, but saving the price of a new washer and dryer (about $2000.00) it was well worth it. I know what you are thinking, why buy a new dryer if there is nothing wrong with it - I had the same question, but my wife made it clear to me that if we needed a new washer, a new dry would be required - who am I to question her :)
It is nice to be able to hear the TV or people talking when the washing machine is running... I hope to get another 5 to 10 years out it, with several new parts.
Pete Mag
02-03-09, 09:20 AM
Read through all the threads and am wondering if anyone has pictures/dimensions of the alternative tools used to remove the bearings? Tony tool is great but 70.00 to rent seems a little steep if I can fabricate something myself. TIA Pete
pugsl
02-03-09, 01:55 PM
70 is pretty cheap factory repair is to replace the rear tub.
moretj
03-22-09, 03:09 PM
Is there anyone in the Toronto area that has successfully completed this repair, as I would like to attempt but need some assistance because I live in Canada it is difficult to rent the Tony Tool. Anyone interested in assisting me??
Thanks
p.s. my machine was purchased in Nov/01 and has worked perfectly up until now with the loud bearing noise on the spin cycle.
Thanks
p.s. my machine was purchased in Nov/01 and has worked perfectly up until now with the loud bearing noise on the spin cycle.
Joe Z
05-18-09, 10:30 PM
I am not sure if I should start a new thread - but this seems to be the right topic. I read this thread after getting a deal on a Maytag MHW2000AWW stacked washer/dryer that has the infamous bearing issue. Long story short, I found this thread very helpful and just finished removing the old bearings. After removing them, I found that they had obviously been bad for a while and the previous owner obviously continued to run this thing no matter how it sounded or ran. The mating bearing races in the hub of the outer tub are corroded and badly pitted - so much so that I fear if I were to install new units, the seals would not seat and the bearings would be breached by water almost immediately. My question is: Where can I find a reasonably priced outer tub for this unit? I have done some searches and they have ranged from $535 to over $700!! I know Maytag/Whirlpool would like to encourage owners to buy a new machine - but this is absurd! :madhell: I would even buy a used outer tub if it were in good shape. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :)
David_Thompson
05-19-09, 05:37 AM
the bearings should come with new races so as long as the new bearings have a tight fit into the sleeve in the tub you should be ok
Joe Z
05-19-09, 06:20 AM
My mistake on calling it a race. It is the hub in the outer tub that is pitted and in poor condition. I am not too concerned about the bearings seating but I am concerned about the seal seating as this outer area of the hub has the worse pitting. Am thinking of using some JB Weld steel before setting the seal to if I cannot find an affordable replacement tub. I searched one website last night and a customer email on the site was very complimentary about the price he paid for the exact tub I need in Feb of 2008. He pd $350 for the tub and other parts. Current price is over $700 at the same site for just the tub. The email I got back from the site essentially said their prices had gone up. No...., really??!
whistman
07-08-09, 10:14 AM
VXB still has the bearings, but they are now $7.95 and $9.95 respectively, and almost $13 for the cheapest shipping.
I found the same sealed bearings at Fremont Industrial Supply for $2.10 (6206-2RS) and $2.80 (6207-2RS), $9.23 UPS shipping, for a total of $14.13 shipped to Texas.
6206-2RS: 6206-2RS Sealed ball bearing (http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-7141/6206-dsh-2RS-Sealed-ball-bearing/Detail)
6207-2RS: 6207-2RS Sealed ball bearing (http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-7142/6207-dsh-2RS-Sealed-ball-bearing/Detail)
Ordering today, will report back on my seal / bearing replacement. This is the second time for me--first time I replaced the drum and bearing as one unit for about $400.
I found the same sealed bearings at Fremont Industrial Supply for $2.10 (6206-2RS) and $2.80 (6207-2RS), $9.23 UPS shipping, for a total of $14.13 shipped to Texas.
6206-2RS: 6206-2RS Sealed ball bearing (http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-7141/6206-dsh-2RS-Sealed-ball-bearing/Detail)
6207-2RS: 6207-2RS Sealed ball bearing (http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-7142/6207-dsh-2RS-Sealed-ball-bearing/Detail)
Ordering today, will report back on my seal / bearing replacement. This is the second time for me--first time I replaced the drum and bearing as one unit for about $400.
whistman
07-08-09, 10:35 AM
Best price I have found so far for the lip seal kit Maytag P/N 12002022 is $32.22 from Midwest Appliance Parts.
Maytag Clothes Washer Washing Machine Lip Seal Kit 12002022 [Lip Seal Kit 12002022] - $32.22 : Appliance Parts from Midwest Appliance Parts, Appliance Part Service, Chicago, Water Filters, Appliance Parts Chicago (http://midwestapplianceparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6306&cPath=335&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=export_feed#googlebase)
Maytag Clothes Washer Washing Machine Lip Seal Kit 12002022 [Lip Seal Kit 12002022] - $32.22 : Appliance Parts from Midwest Appliance Parts, Appliance Part Service, Chicago, Water Filters, Appliance Parts Chicago (http://midwestapplianceparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6306&cPath=335&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=export_feed#googlebase)
whistman
07-09-09, 04:53 PM
I found the same sealed bearings at Fremont Industrial Supply for $2.10 (6206-2RS) and $2.80 (6207-2RS), $9.23 UPS shipping, for a total of $14.13 shipped to Texas.
6206-2RS: 6206-2RS Sealed ball bearing (http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-7141/6206-dsh-2RS-Sealed-ball-bearing/Detail)
6207-2RS: 6207-2RS Sealed ball bearing (http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-7142/6207-dsh-2RS-Sealed-ball-bearing/Detail)
Ordering today, will report back on my seal / bearing replacement. This is the second time for me--first time I replaced the drum and bearing as one unit for about $400.
Ordered these bearings yesterday from Fremont, they were in my mailbox today... along with a check for $3.48 as a refund for shipping and handling overcharged by the website. WOW. I am impressed. :thumbup:
6206-2RS: 6206-2RS Sealed ball bearing (http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-7141/6206-dsh-2RS-Sealed-ball-bearing/Detail)
6207-2RS: 6207-2RS Sealed ball bearing (http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/servlet/the-7142/6207-dsh-2RS-Sealed-ball-bearing/Detail)
Ordering today, will report back on my seal / bearing replacement. This is the second time for me--first time I replaced the drum and bearing as one unit for about $400.
Ordered these bearings yesterday from Fremont, they were in my mailbox today... along with a check for $3.48 as a refund for shipping and handling overcharged by the website. WOW. I am impressed. :thumbup: