Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Steps for an oiled wood finish?

I have always like the look of oiled wood, and I would like to finish my current project with an oil finish. I have never finished wood with oil, so I am not sure how to proceed.

Can you use a light coat of interior oil based wiping stain, then apply a finish of boiled lindseed oil or will the oil stain seal the wood and repel the oil?

I need to use the stain even if I can not use the oil, since the stain matches the rest of my homes woodwork.

Forgot to mention that the wood is birch veneer plywood.

Thanks for the info,

Mike.

[This message has been edited by mwiener (edited June 16, 2000).]

Mike:

The answer as to whether the stain will seal the wood is probably found on the can itself - but most likely the answer is yes.

You can still apply an oil stain over it - it doesn't have to penetrate the wood (and an oil base stain won't completely fill the grain, even of birch). However, I caution against using pure linseed oil. It takes too long to dry.

I use a combination of linseed oil (boiled), turpentine and Japan drier for an oil finish. Technically, it's not a duplicate of the 'old time' oil finishes, but it's close - and it dries faster.

The formula is 2 parts turpentine, 1 part boiled linseed oil, an 1/2 part japan drier. You can mix this in the quantity you need. Japan drier is available from any good paint store - it's normally used to speed rying of oil based paint.

One word of caution. Rags used to apply or wipe up boiled linseed oil are very amenable to spontaneous combustion. When working with this mixture around the shop I keep a gallon can half full of water around. When I get through with a rag, it goes into the can and gets pushed completely under water. Rags thrown in a trash can or on the shop floor can and will ignite on their own. Be careful.

And remember the old instuctions for applying an oil finish - once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and then once a year forever...

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George T.

George,

Thank you so much for your info. If followed you directions to the T, and I am absolutely thrilled with the results. I may finish all my projects this way from now on.

I have a few quick questions. How often should I use the fine 000 steel wool, lightly between every application, or every other application, or every third?

Also regarding the number of applications. I can not leave my project in the garage for a month ( once a day for a week, once a week for a month ) much less a year. Also, being a speaker, while I can oil the tops and sides the bottom will be difficult ( 24"x35"x15" 100lbs each ). Can I just apply 3 applications a day for 5 days and go directly to the oil once per year?

Last question, do I use straight boiled lindseed oil for my once a year maintenance application of oil? I have some other products where the manufacturer does not specifiy the type of oil, other than a good quality oil. Can I use the boiled lindseed for that as well? I just may have to buy boiled lindseed by the 55 gallon drum. I have a lot of wood in the house to maintain. ;-)

Thanks,

Mike

Mike:

Glaad it worked out well for you. It's really a very good looking finish on many woods, and surprisingly easy to apply.

The "once a day..." routine was more necessary years ago than now. Three applications, steel wool between each, should be enough. Should the finish start to dull over time, you can always apply another coat to refresh it. Just make sure each coat is completely dry before using the steel wool. Clean the wool particles off before another coat (I use the round brush attachment on a vacum cleaner).

As for maintenance, you don't want to use striaght boiled linseed oil - it takes forever to dry, and as long as it's tacky it catches dust. The same mix you used to oil the piece will work. It should also work over any other oiled pieces, but without seeing them or the product you originally used, I can't be certain.

Don't get too carried away with your applications - A gallon of this mixture will do three coats on a dining room table, sideboard, hutch, and eight chairs. It's a wipe on/wipe off type thing.

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George T.

Ok, I steel wooled and placed the last 2 coats on paper thin. It has been almost 24 hours from the last coat, but the finish is still tacky. Is this normal? I would have to say that humidity has been above normal lately, but the finish never seemed to dry completely no longer how long I left it on any coat. But it did fine when I took the steel wool to it, so I just pressed on.

When you run your finger or a rag over the surface lightly, they both stick - but do not leave marks. If you rub hard with a soft cloth, like buffing, it does leave marks. I was able to fix the marks with a hard rub of turpentine.

Should I just give it more time?

Basically, that's all you need to do. Oil finishes (especially one with boiled linseed oil as a base) take time to dry.

It should be all right in a few days.

George,

It has been 2 weeks, and they still are a little tacky. I brought them inside about 10 days ago to see if the problem was humidity. AC should remove excess humidity, but still tacky. Should I just wait it out? Is there something that I can apply to move the process forward?

Mike.

Mike:

What I've done in similar cases is to spray a coat of Naphtha on the tacky areas. It's a high speed (volatile) paint thinner. If you don't have a spray rig or airbrush, many home centers offer piggyback aerosoles which are nothing more than a compressed air can with a 2 or 4 ounce empty bottle attachment. Put any sprayable liquid in them and have at it. Your home center should also have Naphtha.

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George T.

I already have the speakers moved in the house. I think Naptha might be a little hazardous inside.

I just can't stop my 17 month old from touching the cabinets. I guess I will just wait it out, do a light steel wool and re apply another light coat over the finger marks after they finally dry.

Thanks,

Mike.