Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - Kenmore/Whirlpool Washer no spin, yes agitate
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RU42
11-23-04, 05:09 PM
Doing a load of wash today the machine begins to get unbalanced. I get up and walk over and hear a snap and the spinning just stops. The unit is about 4 years old, Kenmore model series #110xxxxxx which indicates it is a Whirlpool knockoff.
Nothing could get it going. Rinse works, filled the washer with water and agitate works, but no spinning and no draining.
Any ideas on what may have happened, repair costs (guess), repair time.
Time to go wring our some clothes waiting for an answer. :) Thanks for any help you can offer.
RU
Nothing could get it going. Rinse works, filled the washer with water and agitate works, but no spinning and no draining.
Any ideas on what may have happened, repair costs (guess), repair time.
Time to go wring our some clothes waiting for an answer. :) Thanks for any help you can offer.
RU
RU42
11-23-04, 05:37 PM
Addendum:
OK, trying to figure out what wrong I examined the lid switch. There is a 1"-2" prong that comes from the lid and goes into a hole on the body (I know, very technical descriptions aren't they.)
Upon closer examination, there is nothing for the prong to come into contact with after the hole. Like the whole trigger (or whatever) is missing.
What is the easiest way to explore the washer, mind you the washer is in a tight spot and filled with water. I would love to be able to at least get it to drain. Is there a top down way to get in or is the only access through the back panel.
RU
OK, trying to figure out what wrong I examined the lid switch. There is a 1"-2" prong that comes from the lid and goes into a hole on the body (I know, very technical descriptions aren't they.)
Upon closer examination, there is nothing for the prong to come into contact with after the hole. Like the whole trigger (or whatever) is missing.
What is the easiest way to explore the washer, mind you the washer is in a tight spot and filled with water. I would love to be able to at least get it to drain. Is there a top down way to get in or is the only access through the back panel.
RU
nomind
11-23-04, 08:34 PM
In this type, the lid switch or wigwag would be the logical first places to check, and yes, you do have to get the back panel off. Try draining it into a bucket by lowering the drain hose, it should drain by gravity. When the back is off look for a pair of solenoids connected to cam bars on top of the transmission. Remove the wires and check continuity with a meter on rx10. it should be around 300 -500. if open or short, the solenoid is faulty and will not shift into spin mode.
RU42
11-23-04, 10:10 PM
Thanks - here is what happened.
The unbalance was so bad that some how the trigger for the lid switch had been broken completely off, so the lid could no longer be registered as down.
From a link on this site I found instruction on how to flip up the control panel and pull the body forward in order to get to the inards.
A trip to Sears and $13 for a new lid switch and I was back in business. Thanks to this site that had links to some pictures which greatly aided this process. Sears wanted $65 just to come out and look at the washer. Then labor and parts would have been on top of it.
I am spinning away now.
Interesting fact. The old switch (the part that actually registers open/closed) was not protected. The new part I purchased now has a metal protection around it.
RU
The unbalance was so bad that some how the trigger for the lid switch had been broken completely off, so the lid could no longer be registered as down.
From a link on this site I found instruction on how to flip up the control panel and pull the body forward in order to get to the inards.
A trip to Sears and $13 for a new lid switch and I was back in business. Thanks to this site that had links to some pictures which greatly aided this process. Sears wanted $65 just to come out and look at the washer. Then labor and parts would have been on top of it.
I am spinning away now.
Interesting fact. The old switch (the part that actually registers open/closed) was not protected. The new part I purchased now has a metal protection around it.
RU