Replacing Tub/Shower Faucet

[ghumphri]

Hello All

I have another project I need to get done this weekend. My main bath has a 1962 vintage "Standard" brand, 3-handle tub/shower faucet. The hot and cold water valves leak from the stems, won't completely shut off the water supply, and are pitted/rusty. I first thought of trying to disassemble and replace the washers and packing, but I can't remove the clover/tripod shaped buttons that are splined to the valves and fit into the decorative knobs. I believe there are allen head set-screws securing them and they are stripped/stuck! I'm now set on replacing the entire set up. My budget is around $80.

One of my main concerns is finding a replacement 3-handle set that will fit into my existing holes through the walls (ceramic tile). Also, it will probably be a challenge to get the depth set correctly. Can anyone recomend a specific brand that is "installler" friendly? I've done some sweating of pipe so I feel confident I can get it done. Should I get a fixture that has sweat or pipethread connections? Any other tricks of the trade to help in this install?

Also, the individual hot/cold water pipes do not have shut-off valves when
"t'ed" off the main branch. Where would the best place be to install new gate valves? At the new fixture behind the tub, or at the main branch "T" in the basement?

Thanks!

[majakdragon]

Some of the new faucet set-ups have a large cover plate to compensate for having to enlarge or move the existing holes. If you are confident with sweating the copper, thats what I would do. As far as the new shut off valves, install them where they will be easily accessable to you if you have to work on the unit again. Good luck with your project.

[594tough]

If the hot and cold stems are about 8" apart, you can get a replecement unit that will fit in there. I assume you have access through the back of the wall to do all this. Your selection will be limited, because most codes now require anti-scald valves and these tend to be center-control types. Price Pfister for one still makes a basic three handle set, ad it is available in your price range with basic acrylic or chrome handles. For a little more, you can get porcelain levers.

In a single family dwelling, there often are not shut-off stops for the tub, because it is relatively convenient to just shut off the main. Of course having them is convenient, but don't use a gate valve. Get a ball valve.

[ghumphri]

I think I'll be purchasing the Delta 2653 which has 8" on center spacing. Should fit right into the wall. Also, it has brass coupling nuts as does my original. Perhaps I'll get lucky and the seat on the coupling will be the same and I won't have to sweat new couplings on? The only sweating will be for the shower pipe.

The only problem I'm seeing from reading the instructions on Delta.com, is the installation calls for a minimum drop of 8" between the c/l of the shower/tub diverter valve to the c/l of the tub spout. My current installation has about 5 1/2". With the entire area surrounded by ceramic tile, there's no opportunity to move the spout down or raise the bath valve up. What type of problem will I run into if I install as is? I don't see why this couold be an issue? Thanks.

[majakdragon]

I have no idea why this measurement was used. Cannot think of an issue it would cause if not exact as in your case. Good luck and post back with the results of your project.

[ghumphri]

Got it done last weekend. Had to chisel away quite a bit of mortar to get get the old valve removed, and everything new lined up, but it works great!

The whole deal took me about 3 hrs :D .

The original brass couplings were NOT the same. Just needed to sweat a little more copper.

Thanks everone.