It seemed like a good idea

[2olgoats]

Yesterday I replaced an old GE weathertron thermostat on my upstairs GE HVAC (electric heat pump) system. When I got done the system didn't work. The thermostat showed the heat and cooling each were working but no fan action. So I put the original thermostat back and it didn't work either. Before starting, I had killed the 220 to both the upstairs and downstairs systems since they are not clearly marked at the service entrance. However, while removing the old thermostat at the start of this adventure I discovered that the R wire was still hot.

The "new" thermostat was a Honeywell ct3611. It connected fine and powered up. The only thing I was missing was the F/L wire that is not used in the old thermostat but monitors the system on the new. I originally assumed this was why the new unit did not work.

At the end of the day with the original thermostat reinstalled, I could get the outdoor unit to run, but the fan never kicked on in AUTO or ON position. Could I have kicked the capacitor, fried the relay or something else? I got into the attic and inspected the box hoping for a telltale sign, but nothing jumped out. Any suggestions? The weather is mild so no heating is OK this week, but any advice you can offer is greatly appreciated.

[Ed Imeduc]

My ct3611 schematic shows L or F as system monitor.
Did you put a jumper on Y to W1 as it call's for on my sheet
Try and just hit from R to G at the tstat should have fan.If not check fan relay next. You didnt get the blower motor here messing with the tstat that I can think of. Do you read 24V from R to C at the tstat? You only need one B are O not both.
Did you mark all the wires when you took them off???

ED ;)

[2olgoats]

Let's see...
I took a digital photo of the old thermostat for reference and verified the alphabit a couple of time before removing anything.
I do have power thru the R wire now, but I haven't confirmed it's 24v.
It is a used thermostat I picked up on ebay, so I assumed that the jumper was still in place as the manual stated, but now upon examination it appears to be missing. I'm still confused about the F/L wire, do you believe this unit will operate without it?
Finally I don't know much yet about tracing down the fan relay, but it may be the problem since I'm striking out with both thermostats.
Thanks for the leads, I'll work on these.
Chuck

[2olgoats]

Here's the latest on my situation:
I've determined I have 27v to my thermostat.
I've determined my new thermostat is installed correctly (this time).
I've determined my fan relay is working, based on the click it makes when I turn the fan switch to ON.
I can hear and feel a hum from the motor and it starts to get warm, but won't turn and the fan turns freely.
What am I missing here?
thanks in advance

[mattison]

If you've got line voltage going to the fan and it's not starting, 1st replace the capacitor, if that don't work it's time for a motor.

But 1st confirm you have line voltage to the motor.

[2olgoats]

since I have two complete sytems I swapped capacitors. No difference. So I removed the whole squirrel cage assembly and plugged it into the basement system to no avail. I'm taking the motor to a local shop for testing. It didn't have any telltale signs of dead motors, ie it turns freely and has no odors, etc. What an adventure.

[2olgoats]

bad bearings on a worn out motor. New blower motor and EVERYTHING is working. Thanks for your assistance and thanks for providing this forum.