View Full Version : Finishing Basement Ceiling
rossco_2004
11-14-04, 08:42 AM
Hello.
I've been working on finishing my basement up for some time. But am confused on how to do the ceiling and pot lights.
Right now we have all the walls done with drywall we just need to put in the lgihting and the celing drywall then we can mud and paint.
So how is the ceiling attached? special scews or the normal wall screws? i understand that we need some 2x2 joists to go across teh ceiling...is that right? that seems easy enough to do...
but what about pot lights. they attach to the joists that were already there...so when the drywall is put on wont the pot lights be 2inches too high. :confused:
please explain this all to me.
Doug Aleshire
11-14-04, 09:36 AM
rossco_2004,
Drywall can be hung using the same screws as you did for the walls.
2x2's for furring strips can be installed in preparation for your drywall.
I will copy your post to lighting as they can provide good answers for you.
Hope this helps!
Ed Imeduc
11-14-04, 09:44 AM
Still say you cant beat a drop ceiling in the basement. Can't count the times been back in mine. To fix some things change wires for up stairs run new phone and speaker wire's move Tv cable.
ED ;)
rossco_2004
11-14-04, 09:48 AM
Still say you cant beat a drop ceiling in the basement. Can't count the times been back in mine. To fix some things change wires for up stairs run new phone and speaker wire's move Tv cable.
ED ;)
ya it is easier for that reason but i still don't like drop ceiling that much.
the room im doing is only part of the basement anyway, and i've made sure to get all teh wires i need through the ceiling and walls ahead of time.
if i use these 2x2's then i hope the pot lights will still work. :eek:
Doug Aleshire
11-14-04, 09:52 AM
rossco_2004,
They will work at the adjusting arms attach to the joists - you will have plenty of adjustment. That is why I also posted this in Lighting for you for further advice and reassurance.
Good Luck!
rossco_2004
11-14-04, 10:00 AM
adjustment arms? :confused:
Doug Aleshire
11-14-04, 10:31 AM
rossco_2004,
Yeah, how else do you think they stay up there?
Take a look at this,
http://www.lampsontheweb.com/NoFrame/Items/021987nf.html
This is just one example but other brands have different housings and set ups.
hope this helps!
rossco_2004
11-14-04, 10:35 AM
So if im using the 2x2 joists attached to teh original joists:
The pot light's adjustment arms will attach to the original joists
-or-
The pot light's adjustment arms will attach to the new 2x2 joists
?
sorry for all the questions i just want to make sure i get this right.
Doug Aleshire
11-14-04, 10:36 AM
rossco_2004,
Here's more examples of recessed light fixtures,
http://www.lighting-fixtures-ceiling-fans.com/store/PPF/Category_ID/45/products.asp
Click (more details) for larger view.
Hope this helps!
Doug Aleshire
11-14-04, 10:37 AM
rossco_2004,
Depends on the brand of can you are going to get but in essenece yes. You need to go look at them at HD or Lowes, etc.
This would be the best suggestion.
rossco_2004
11-14-04, 10:39 AM
rossco_2004,
Depends on the brand of can you are going to get but in essenece yes. You need to go look at them at HD or Lowes, etc.
This would be the best suggestion.
alright, then in that case i think we better ask the person at home depot after we've chose a pot lgiht that we like.
thanks for all the help! :)
Doug Aleshire
11-14-04, 10:40 AM
rossco_2004,
They are simple to install and you might have the arms attaching to the joists or they could go into the 2x2's. The finish rim of the fixtures are adjustable as much as 2 inches, rarely more but in some cases the can itself can be adjusted but rarely from what I have seen. I am not an electrician but I design enough of these projects to know what is out there. There is always something new that I need to know about.
Hope this helps!
Doug Aleshire
11-14-04, 10:42 AM
rossco_2004,
You're very welcome!
Let us know how you're getting along.
Ed Imeduc
11-14-04, 01:21 PM
With Doug Here hang the light cans to the 2X2 and ever thing is as it should be.
ED ;)
rossco_2004
11-14-04, 02:24 PM
ok we bought some lights but only enough parts for one so we can try this out first.
gonna wire it up later this week.
mark065
11-15-04, 09:17 AM
If you have trouble mounting the type of fixed can with the arms, you could switch to the "remodel" type that has the electrical box on an arm extension. These are great for slipping up into a pre-cut hole in the drywall ceiling.
I've used them a couple of times....once in my livingroom and once in my kitchen. Just leave slack wire hanging out of the drywall hole, wire up your light, and then slip it up into the hole and lock the clamps.
Help me out here, I'm confused as to why you're lowering the ceiling with 2x2s , why not just use the floor joists as your ceiling joists--screw the drywall directly to them? Are there wires or plumbing supply lines you're trying to get below?
Also (though it's too late for you, maybe it'll help some future soul) If you're drywalling ALWAYS DO THE CEILING FIRST then butt the wall rock up against the ceiling, it gives some extra support and prevents the ceiling from sagging at the intersection and cracking/ripping the tape.
Doug Aleshire
11-15-04, 11:52 AM
caleyg,
You're a day late and a dollar short. If you read his first post, walls are done. That's the way it goes.
The only reason for the 2x2's is because of piping that is in the way.
This is the best way for his application.
Realized I'm late, lookey there, mentioned it right in my post.
Just re-read the whole thread and it never mentioned anything about piping in the way--that's why I asked. It's possible the original poster had just heard that was how it should be done and was going to do it that way whether he needed to or not.
I also mentioned it was too late for this poster to change how he did the walls first, but hey, isn't the whole point of a public forum that others can read and learn? If not, then we would just use private messages.
You're getting pretty snarky lately, Doug. You didn't used to be that way. What gives?
Doug Aleshire
11-15-04, 01:58 PM
caleyg,
Sorry,
Too much coffee! Too much work! Too little time! Getting older! Lacking patience this last week. Other than that, things are ok.
I'll take the condolences with a smile and thanks for giving me a reality check.
I mean it.
Doug,
I realized my reply was even snarky-er. Sorry.
But there's no such thing as too much coffee.
Doug Aleshire
11-15-04, 02:21 PM
caleyg,
Wanna bet?!
It's true that when doing drywall, it's best to hang the lid then do the walls. As for the 2x2's, doing drywall in a basement can be a bear but there other methods which may be easier but cost. When one figures labor cost (some figure it is free) and the cost of material which is not, it's an issue of time it takes to complete the job. We may have more time than money but then again, maybe not. The CeilingMax is one option or doing traditional suspended. Pipes, wires, etc. always have a way of screwing things up. Issue always falls back to accessibility of certain items, shut off valves, junction boxes, future running of wires, potential plumbing leak or toilet/tub overflowing.
Each method has it's pros and cons but the end user must consider all the options and do what seems best. As always, cost is a factor and knowing what products are out there that would work the best.
Just some thoughts
logan00
11-16-04, 08:15 AM
If a drop ceiling is used, does it need to be 6" below the floor joists if recessed lighting is being installed? Can't the lights be placed in between the floorjoists, so the ceiling need only be a few inches from the floor joists?
Doug Aleshire
11-16-04, 08:34 AM
logan00,
Usually 4" is recommended but I have found that 6 inches would be better. This allows easy installation of tiles (easier). If in grid flourescents were used, 6" clearance is recommended from bottom of grid to, lets say a joist or ceiling above. Again the total height that you will have when done should be looked at. If the height is too low for you, products like Ceiling Max are very useful but in most cases, basement ceilings have something in the way that you must go over. If you are lucky, the pipes might be close to the heat ducts or if you are even luckier, you have web floor trusses versus dimensional lumber. In those cases, sheetrock or Ceiling Max would be ideal with minimal alterations needed, if at all.
Recessed cans can go between the joists and depending on the type of can, manufacturer clearances should be followed. Cans are made so that you can get those that require 6 in clearance around them if insulated per say to those that are approved to be surrounded by insulation. Cost of these can types does vary quite a bit.
Hope this helps!
logan00
11-16-04, 10:19 AM
Thanks, I just finished putting on my 3rd coat of spackle, after painting and installing the doors, I will be putting up a drop ceiling. The person helping me says that we can have the tiles about 2-3" from the floor joists, but my electrician said that it needs to be 6" from the joists, I wasn't sure who was right.
Ed Imeduc
11-16-04, 10:28 AM
I have put in the clear plastic ceiling tile like over a bar are pool table and the lights up on the joist. Also by the lights up there put Xmass color lights. On another switch. this way can have lights or turn it in to a Disco. fun fun :D
ED ;)
Doug Aleshire
11-16-04, 10:32 AM
logan00,
You're welcome!
Ed, that sounds cool!
vBulletin® v3.7.3, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by
vBSEO 3.2.0