Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - finishing oak table
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02-23-00, 03:40 PM
Hi. I made a dining table of red oak and was thinking of using a Tung oil finish. Basically I want a finish that lets the grain show through and provides some protection for moderate use. Would a few coats of tung oil do a good job or should I consider other treatments? What are the pros and cons. Thanks for any info.
02-23-00, 08:48 PM
The only down side I can think of you've already eliminated in what you said - that being that tung oil doesn't fill the grain of the wood well, and leaves you with the 'feel' or texture of the wood.
That having been said, I love the stuff. I readily suggest it for applications in kitchens and food preparation areas for its durability and ease of maintenance. If, after a while, it does need 'touching up' another coat applied just like the first one will do the trick.
Tung oil finish (not pure tung oil) is available in a variety of sheens, from flat to high gloss. Pure tung oil gets shinier with each coat. Either one is suitable for your application.
To make it easier to clean the table of spills, etc., I would suggest a minimum of three coats on the top.
To prep the table top for its first coat, you might want to try this trick. Wet a clean rag with water, then wring it damp dry. Wipe the entire top down with this rag, then let the top dry. Then fine sand (220 grit) the top. The damp rag will raise the last few 'fuzzies' in the wood, letting you have as smooth a surface as you can get in raw oak after sanding. Then dust off the sanding dust, and finish the table.
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George T.
That having been said, I love the stuff. I readily suggest it for applications in kitchens and food preparation areas for its durability and ease of maintenance. If, after a while, it does need 'touching up' another coat applied just like the first one will do the trick.
Tung oil finish (not pure tung oil) is available in a variety of sheens, from flat to high gloss. Pure tung oil gets shinier with each coat. Either one is suitable for your application.
To make it easier to clean the table of spills, etc., I would suggest a minimum of three coats on the top.
To prep the table top for its first coat, you might want to try this trick. Wet a clean rag with water, then wring it damp dry. Wipe the entire top down with this rag, then let the top dry. Then fine sand (220 grit) the top. The damp rag will raise the last few 'fuzzies' in the wood, letting you have as smooth a surface as you can get in raw oak after sanding. Then dust off the sanding dust, and finish the table.
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George T.
03-19-00, 11:51 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by George:
The only down side I can think of you've already eliminated in what you said - that being that tung oil doesn't fill the grain of the wood well, and leaves you with the 'feel' or texture of the wood.
That having been said, I love the stuff. I readily suggest it for applications in kitchens and food preparation areas for its durability and ease of maintenance. If, after a while, it does need 'touching up' another coat applied just like the first one will do the trick.
Tung oil finish (not pure tung oil) is available in a variety of sheens, from flat to high gloss. Pure tung oil gets shinier with each coat. Either one is suitable for your application.
To make it easier to clean the table of spills, etc., I would suggest a minimum of three coats on the top.
To prep the table top for its first coat, you might want to try this trick. Wet a clean rag with water, then wring it damp dry. Wipe the entire top down with this rag, then let the top dry. Then fine sand (220 grit) the top. The damp rag will raise the last few 'fuzzies' in the wood, letting you have as smooth a surface as you can get in raw oak after sanding. Then dust off the sanding dust, and finish the table.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I would consider a more waterproof polyurethane finish for the top of a dining room table,even thought tung oil has a prettier finish it woun't protect against waterspots left from glasses
The only down side I can think of you've already eliminated in what you said - that being that tung oil doesn't fill the grain of the wood well, and leaves you with the 'feel' or texture of the wood.
That having been said, I love the stuff. I readily suggest it for applications in kitchens and food preparation areas for its durability and ease of maintenance. If, after a while, it does need 'touching up' another coat applied just like the first one will do the trick.
Tung oil finish (not pure tung oil) is available in a variety of sheens, from flat to high gloss. Pure tung oil gets shinier with each coat. Either one is suitable for your application.
To make it easier to clean the table of spills, etc., I would suggest a minimum of three coats on the top.
To prep the table top for its first coat, you might want to try this trick. Wet a clean rag with water, then wring it damp dry. Wipe the entire top down with this rag, then let the top dry. Then fine sand (220 grit) the top. The damp rag will raise the last few 'fuzzies' in the wood, letting you have as smooth a surface as you can get in raw oak after sanding. Then dust off the sanding dust, and finish the table.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I would consider a more waterproof polyurethane finish for the top of a dining room table,even thought tung oil has a prettier finish it woun't protect against waterspots left from glasses
03-19-00, 04:37 PM
Hate to disagree with "toddler", but my maple dining room table IS finished with tung oil (done 15 years ago) and I have yet to have a glass leave a water mark...
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George T.
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George T.