Doors and Windows - Sliding Patio Door
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april1951
11-10-04, 06:19 AM
I'm getting ready to install a new patio door and I want to make sure that I have all the items to install it correctly, other than all the basic hardware. Screws, shims, Insulation, etc. I've been told that I need to also install an under sill plate for strength, could someone please elaborate on that for me
glasman2
11-10-04, 07:38 AM
if your not on a complete flat surface for your sill ( meaning the exterior is up a bit ) you should put some kind of support under it. It could be wood or metal ( your choice ) then caulk it in.
If you don't , when you step on it, it will tweek and bend, causing the caulking under the sill to rip, causing a leak. Or it could ( if vinyl ) break the threshold.
If you don't , when you step on it, it will tweek and bend, causing the caulking under the sill to rip, causing a leak. Or it could ( if vinyl ) break the threshold.
Screen King
11-13-04, 06:33 AM
Dear April1951;
If I was replacing a patio door I would want a concrete sill installed first to screw the patio door sill plate into. I would lay a bead of caulk under the sill plate, and fasten it with concrete fasteners.
Many patio doors are installed with the patio door sill bridging the brick veneer and the wood frame of the house, but over time the wood frame can shift, distorting the sill and possibly allowing rainwater into the house. This is probably why a sill plate was suggested to you. But a wooden sill plate can rot and it would have to be pretty thick to resist movement in the frame, concrete is much better.
Best Regards
Adrian D
If I was replacing a patio door I would want a concrete sill installed first to screw the patio door sill plate into. I would lay a bead of caulk under the sill plate, and fasten it with concrete fasteners.
Many patio doors are installed with the patio door sill bridging the brick veneer and the wood frame of the house, but over time the wood frame can shift, distorting the sill and possibly allowing rainwater into the house. This is probably why a sill plate was suggested to you. But a wooden sill plate can rot and it would have to be pretty thick to resist movement in the frame, concrete is much better.
Best Regards
Adrian D
joneq
11-13-04, 09:06 AM
Whatever method you choose make sure it is LEVEL side to side AND front to back
glasman2
11-13-04, 12:54 PM
Dear April1951;
If I was replacing a patio door I would want a concrete sill installed first to screw the patio door sill plate into. I would lay a bead of caulk under the sill plate, and fasten it with concrete fasteners.
Many patio doors are installed with the patio door sill bridging the brick veneer and the wood frame of the house, but over time the wood frame can shift, distorting the sill and possibly allowing rainwater into the house. This is probably why a sill plate was suggested to you. But a wooden sill plate can rot and it would have to be pretty thick to resist movement in the frame, concrete is much better.
Best Regards
Adrian D
In the OLD days they screwed sills down, but they learned it causes LEAKS.
Never screw the sill in, it should be level, and float in with the caulking under it to seal and hold into place.If you need to shim the sill it should be continuous with caulking under / inbetween and ontop of every shim to insure a good seal. Yes wood rots, but if you get treated wood, and caulk it in good, it should never get wet or rot.
If I was replacing a patio door I would want a concrete sill installed first to screw the patio door sill plate into. I would lay a bead of caulk under the sill plate, and fasten it with concrete fasteners.
Many patio doors are installed with the patio door sill bridging the brick veneer and the wood frame of the house, but over time the wood frame can shift, distorting the sill and possibly allowing rainwater into the house. This is probably why a sill plate was suggested to you. But a wooden sill plate can rot and it would have to be pretty thick to resist movement in the frame, concrete is much better.
Best Regards
Adrian D
In the OLD days they screwed sills down, but they learned it causes LEAKS.
Never screw the sill in, it should be level, and float in with the caulking under it to seal and hold into place.If you need to shim the sill it should be continuous with caulking under / inbetween and ontop of every shim to insure a good seal. Yes wood rots, but if you get treated wood, and caulk it in good, it should never get wet or rot.