Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Hardwood flooring installation

I will be replacing the carpet in my upstairs hallway with 3 1/4" x3/4" prefinished Bruce oak flooring.

Do I need to lay anything underneath, it is just plywood.

Do I need tack strips for the carpet in the 4 bedrooms off the hallway?

Does it matter which way I run the flooring, I know on the 1st floor the installers had to know how the joists ran.

Anything else I should know ? tips, trick, etc....

In general, wood flooring always looks better if it runs with the long axis of the room. In a really narrow space (i.e. a hallway), short pieces running across the hall just don't look right. Luckily, the floor joists are usually perpendicular to the hallway so that's seldom an issue. If yours aren't, I would strongly consider adding blocking between the joists so the flooring can be laid lengthwise. It isn't really that difficult - cut away the subflooring, add the blocking, and put the subfloor back down.

Yes, you'll need the tack strips - they're what keep the carpet stretched tightly and against the walls.

The joists on the 2nd floor would be running the same as the 1st floor correct?

Typically I would think so. You could also check the distance between nailheads; in one direction they should be consistantly about 16" apart.

Hardwood flooring should be laid across joists. Transitions between carpet and hardwood should be baby thresholds. Manufacturer of hardwood should have these pieces available. 15# roofing felt should be laid over 3/4" plywood or OSB acceptable subfloor.

Go to www.nofma.org for the technical manual for hardwood flooring installation.

I don't think I've ever seen ceiling and floor joists running perpendicular to one another but I wouldn't bet the ranch that it can't happen. :)

Twelvepole is right about the roofing felt, but I stand with my suggestion of putting in blocking if the floor joists are parallel with the hall walls. Yes, it's more work (i.e. $$$) but it will provide the necessary support for the hardwood floor - and allow you to lay the boards with the axis of the hall instead of across it.

You might find it worthwhile to get some inexpensive1"x4" boards and lay some lengthwise and some across the hall to see which 'look' you prefer.

Hardwood flooring should be laid across joists. Transitions between carpet and hardwood should be baby thresholds. Manufacturer of hardwood should have these pieces available. 15# roofing felt should be laid over 3/4" plywood or OSB acceptable subfloor.

Go to www.nofma.org for the technical manual for hardwood flooring installation.

There is no reason to run hardwood flooring across joists unless the hardwood flooring is being installed directly to the joist and in lieu of subflooring and unless there are moisture problems from areas below which have not been properly addressed.

If approved subflooring (such as 3/4" standard plywood or OSB is installed across floor joists), hardwoods can be installed in any direction including diagonally or spirally with no ill results.

Roofing felt is NEVER recommended under hardwoods and over plywoods.

What IS recommended on occaision is red rosin paper between the hardwoods and subfloor to reduce squeaking.

Homebild -

What's the rationale for not using roofing felt? :confused: I never have, but I wasn't aware that it shouldn't be used. I would think that the 15# felt is thin enough to not cause 'sponginess' problems.

There is no reason to run hardwood flooring across joists unless the hardwood flooring is being installed directly to the joist and in lieu of subflooring and unless there are moisture problems from areas below which have not been properly addressed.

If approved subflooring (such as 3/4" standard plywood or OSB is installed across floor joists), hardwoods can be installed in any direction including diagonally or spirally with no ill results.

Roofing felt is NEVER recommended under hardwoods and over plywoods.

What IS recommended on occaision is red rosin paper between the hardwoods and subfloor to reduce squeaking.


And we wonder how so many corners get cut during construction and remodeling!!!

The proof is in the post above.

As twelvepole said go to:http://www.nofma.org for the correct spec, straight from the manufacturers.

That site calls for either asphalt felt or building paper under the hardwood. Isn't "roofing paper" another name for asphalt felt? :confused:

Ah, the ongoing tug of war between rosin paper and roofing felt(#15 paper)! Some guys swear by rosin, others roofing felt--just seems to depend on what the norm is in your region. It's always been felt in my region--since I started in the business.

15# Asphalt impregnated felt is the standard here.