Kitchen Gas Appliances - Kenmore gas oven igniter
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mckune
11-03-04, 08:53 AM
I have a three-year-old Kenmore gas range that hasn't been used much. Recently the oven quit heating while I was baking. When I tried to turn it on, I could smell gas and could hear the igniter sparking, but it never lit. I purchased and replaced the igniter and burner assembly, and the oven lit one time, but then quit as it did before. Once again I am smelling gas and hearing the sparking, but nothing happens. The stove top and broiler work fine. Any suggestions?
Sharp Advice
11-03-04, 06:27 PM
Hello mckune and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliances topic.
Couple of possibilities could be the cause.
The spark module could not be producing enough of a spark or one hot enough to ignite gas. This can be checked by lighting the pilot manually while the sparker is clicking to try to light the pilot.
An experienced tech can determine by the spark if it is able to light pilot gas. Also by looking at the flame charactoristics after lit by a match. Needs a trained eye to note a small difference.
***Caution note. Manually lighting pilot flame, when sparker is clicking and odor is present, can be hazardous. If the gas is only coming from pilot not a problem. But if gas is coming from burner, harzardous condition. One needs to know where the gas is coming from. That determines the potental hazard.
Above implies the sparker and or spark module could be the cause. Since you changed the sparker but not the module, that could be the problem. Or at least one of them. Module could be the second cause.
A lack of pilot gas can be another, based on the size and flame charactoristics of the pilot. If the flame appears small or is small may be the source of the gas to it is the cause. Pilot gas may be supplied from the thermostat or the gas valve. Models vary and stoves vary.
Assuming the burner assemble (words you used) means the pilot burner assembly??? If so, have to than assume assembly, including a restricted pilot gas orifice, is not the cause.
Another possibility, likely rare in this case since pilot flame is difficult to light from the sparker, is the pilot flame is not heating the safety element once the pilot flame is established. Which would than result in the burner turning off when safety element is cooled.
Couple of possibilities could be the cause.
The spark module could not be producing enough of a spark or one hot enough to ignite gas. This can be checked by lighting the pilot manually while the sparker is clicking to try to light the pilot.
An experienced tech can determine by the spark if it is able to light pilot gas. Also by looking at the flame charactoristics after lit by a match. Needs a trained eye to note a small difference.
***Caution note. Manually lighting pilot flame, when sparker is clicking and odor is present, can be hazardous. If the gas is only coming from pilot not a problem. But if gas is coming from burner, harzardous condition. One needs to know where the gas is coming from. That determines the potental hazard.
Above implies the sparker and or spark module could be the cause. Since you changed the sparker but not the module, that could be the problem. Or at least one of them. Module could be the second cause.
A lack of pilot gas can be another, based on the size and flame charactoristics of the pilot. If the flame appears small or is small may be the source of the gas to it is the cause. Pilot gas may be supplied from the thermostat or the gas valve. Models vary and stoves vary.
Assuming the burner assemble (words you used) means the pilot burner assembly??? If so, have to than assume assembly, including a restricted pilot gas orifice, is not the cause.
Another possibility, likely rare in this case since pilot flame is difficult to light from the sparker, is the pilot flame is not heating the safety element once the pilot flame is established. Which would than result in the burner turning off when safety element is cooled.