Water Heaters - Is this Fixable or time to replace?

Well, As I grabed my keys from the hotwater heater a few days back, I noticed something odd,

as you can see from these pictures, I have a leak http://chris.goober.ca/IMG_3384.jpg
http://chris.goober.ca/IMG_3383.jpg

The insulation is floating around in the hole. The odd thing is, when I check the insulation at the bottom of the tank, its stil dry (I checked were the pilot light is).

My question is, could it be a leak from the water in/out lines? (do they tighten or are the welded to the tank) or do I have a crack in my tank?

Its a John Wood, and It was installed in 96, so its not even that old, but I cant find the reciept/invoice for waranty info..

It looks like it's time to replace the water heater to me. (That appears to be a rusted out anode rod connection.)
Good luck!
Mike

Figured as much,

Any tips for changing out the old with the new?
Im looking at the GE waterheaters only because Home Depo cariers them, Any problems with them?

Thanks for the help

Haven't heard of any problems with GE water heaters.
Use 3/4" di-electric nipples in the water heater to connect your copper lines to (prevent electrolysis corrosion between two different types of metals).
Get a set of flex copper water heater connectors with brass fittings to prevent having to sweat connections. One end screws onto the di-electric nipple and the other has a 3/4" compression fitting to go onto your incoming or outgoing 3/4" straight copper line (cut with a tubing cutter, remove any burrs, and clean up the end of the pipes with steel wool for the compression fittings).
Use 2-3 flat wraps of regular teflon tape on all male threads (except brass compression fittings), wrapped clockwise only as the threaded ends of the nipples face you.
Use specific gas line teflon tape on the gas connections.
Good Luck!
Mike

:mad:

Well I was all ready to do this Saturday, had the tank priced and all that. I ran it by mom (owner of the house) and she herd that her house insurance would be invalid if it wasnt installed by somone with there gas ticket. WTF?

To a degree that makes sence, but honestly,
Home Depo wants $200+tax to install it, PLUS something about an aditional "Gas licence" fee.. im guessing $250 easy..

Its a rediculas amount of money for something I KNOW I can do... plumbing is simple.. Gas line seems just as easy, quarter turn at the tank shutoff, when replacing, use teflon tape (gas specific?) and check for leaks with soapy water..

what a waist of money..

That line of thinking is not pratical in the sense that water heaters are the most dangerous plumbing appurtenance if installed incorrectly.


That is the very reason why a licensed plumber has to install water heaters; inspections follow-up with a visit by the local plumbing inspector giving the thumbs up that the installation was correctly installed and no other surrounding situations can affect the operation of the water heater without causing physical harm or structural damage.

Too often people think that if you screw and glue a couple pipes here......a few turns of the screw there.......its all said, done and good. Doesn't work that way in the unforgiving trade of plumbing.


I understand that cost is a deciding factor in your situation, and I would be the first to agree that even though it can be done.......you need the insurance of a licensed plumber to correctly install the heater.


Everyone benefits from the seal of approval showing that the state you reside in approves the install.


Insurance companies prey on those hidden unknowns regarding the liability of "last one that touches it, owns it" situations.


Watch out for upcharges on the simple things during a Home Depot install.........they are quite expensive. :eek:

Building codes can vary greatly from place to place, especially plumbing and electrical.
Here, a homeowner can install it all, as long as it meets code and passes inspection. However, in many places, a licensed professional must install it.
Check with your Building Inspection Department for local codes, permit and inspection requirements.
As Terry said, if you have a fire or other disaster due to code violations, your homeowner's insurance will not pay off (not to mention the danger to you and your family). Additionally, if the property is ever sold, code violations would stop the sale until corrected.
Do whatever is necessary to do it right to begin with.
Good luck!
Mike

Hmm.. with this all being said i guess I could do it and have it inspected by somone, But also on the other side, my mom dosnt care what it costs, just wants it done, and done right.

I just hate seeing somone spend so much money on something doable..

and I KNOW whent he inspector will come in he will notice the 90 degree turns in the vents for both the furnace and the heater and not pass it... oddly enough those were in since the house was built over 20 years ago..

Guess I should change those befor he/she comes, cuz homedepo will charge me an arm and a leg to do it..

Turns of direction in a flue vent pipe for a gas water heater or furnace is acceptable.


In my area, you must use galvanized ductwork and fittings, must have a gradual pitch upwards to the opening into flue chase, and for each inch of flue.....a screw accordingly per each connection.

Meaning.....3" flue pipe, 3 screws per joint......1 90 would be 6 screws in total.


Aluminum ductwork or fittings is not code in my area; the material deteriorates over time, thus allowing exhaust gases to escape and cause physical harm.

Here in San Diego HD gets $289 labor which includes delivery and haul away. Also includes new (required) earthquake straps. City permit is $89.
The installation does have to be up to code ( this is a city requirement) and 'extra' work can be pricey.


Most jurisdictions require a permit for ANY work involving gas. Some states allow a homeowner to do the work and get in inspected, but unlicensed contractors CANNOT pull permits. Some states do not allow homeowners to do permit work.

If you do an internet search for water heater explosions, you can find pictures of water heaters which have taken the roof off, etc. Obviously they are basically safe because we all have on. But with gas, flame, water, and carbon monoxide the potentials are too serious to take any chances.