Doors and Windows - bevel & miter calculation
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joeperi
11-01-04, 11:07 AM
I have just installed a series of casement windows that are approximately 8 inches apart. I want to run a board as a sill the length of the wall with the windows to the corner and continue on down the side with yet more casement windows. I expect to install the "sill" with a 10 degree down slope to facilitate run off. So here's my question. I want to miter the corner. How do I calculate the bevel and miter so that two boards which slope at 10 degrees meet at 90 degrees??? Is there a table I might check?
Many thanks. Joe P
Many thanks. Joe P
glasman2
11-01-04, 02:06 PM
to easy tools to use for this, a bevel square or a True Angle bevel tool
I have to run 50' or more radius store front walls and this tool helps a lot. it's cheap 10 to 20 dollars ( depending on size you get ) and works like a charm.
You can get this at good tool shops, don't know if hardware stors have it or not.
I have to run 50' or more radius store front walls and this tool helps a lot. it's cheap 10 to 20 dollars ( depending on size you get ) and works like a charm.
You can get this at good tool shops, don't know if hardware stors have it or not.
joeperi
11-01-04, 02:57 PM
I'm not sure I quite understand. A bevel square is great if you have an original angle with which you can set the bevel square. Then you can replicate it. My problem is I don't have an original angle with which to set the bevel square. I need to discover it first. How do I go about doing that?
Joe P
Joe P
glasman2
11-01-04, 05:48 PM
you say your sill is running through first, right?
After you install the sill ( or lay it the way it is going to be installed ) place the handle against the window frame and pull the blade down to your sill piece. Now you have your angle.
After you install the sill ( or lay it the way it is going to be installed ) place the handle against the window frame and pull the blade down to your sill piece. Now you have your angle.
Randy Mallory
11-02-04, 11:15 AM
joeperi,
I'm not sure I understand your problem, but I think I do. I think you may be concerned about the "error" that will be introduced when you throw in the 10 deg. slope. If so, here's the way I would do it.
First, I would use the bevel gage to determine the "level" angle. It may not be exactly 90 deg. Bisect it and set your mitre saw. Now, I'm sure a pro would laugh at this, but I would slice a 10 deg. shim on my table saw and put it under the stock on the mitre saw, presenting the stock to the blade just as it will rest in the installation. As I said, this is probably a rookie way to do it, but it has worked for me several times in the past when I've done something like this.
Good luck,
I'm not sure I understand your problem, but I think I do. I think you may be concerned about the "error" that will be introduced when you throw in the 10 deg. slope. If so, here's the way I would do it.
First, I would use the bevel gage to determine the "level" angle. It may not be exactly 90 deg. Bisect it and set your mitre saw. Now, I'm sure a pro would laugh at this, but I would slice a 10 deg. shim on my table saw and put it under the stock on the mitre saw, presenting the stock to the blade just as it will rest in the installation. As I said, this is probably a rookie way to do it, but it has worked for me several times in the past when I've done something like this.
Good luck,
joeperi
11-02-04, 03:15 PM
Randy, YES , exactly my point. for example when cutting crown molding to make an exterior 90 degree corner you actually cut the miter at 33 degrees and the bevel at 31.62 degrees which compensates for the angle at which the crown molding is placed. Hence my question. The technique you've described will work as well when you set the miter saw at 45 degree miter. And no it is not a rookie technique. I've seen it referenced in several finishing carpentry books. But I was hoping for a calculation or table to reference. Thanks for the help.