Doors and Windows - Windows with no decorative framing, only sills
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rhurtado
10-05-04, 02:02 PM
I bought a house that was built in the early '90s. All the windows are the same. They only have a window sill. No other decorative wood framing around the windows. I'm not sure if there is anything I need to know or if I can just nail some decorative wood pieces around the window. Most of the sills extend 1"-1 1/4" past the outside of the window which does not give me too many options for the trim along the sides of the window. Any recommendations? :confused:
COBALT
10-05-04, 05:23 PM
I'm assuming that the sills (you're talking inside the house, right?) were cased with drywall inside the casement on both sides and in the top. Whoever mud and taped the drywall just put some corners on and mudded them in place exposing only the sill for finish work. That's pretty typical, and usually is left up to the home owner to decide. It's also usual for windows placed in deep window wells where wood would be impractical.
First, determine what you have under the drywall. Is this a 2 x 6 exterior wall? I assume it is since 2 x 4 walls haven't met the building code in a long time. Assuming these windows are set in 2 x 6 exterior walls think about cutting the drywall out of the case for the sides and the top first. Carefully remove the corner metal that provides the reinforcement to the corners, and take care not to break the drywall surrounding the window for the wall. What you should be left with is partially exposed 2 x 6 that represents the framing the window was originally set in. I'd pop the sill loose and cut my casing material out of the same type of stock as the sill, and use brads or finish nails to attach the casing to the sill - making sort of a box, and then set it inside the casing all at the same time. Use shims to square up and center the sill and the casing to the window. Once that is nailed in place slip some of that thin foam used in foundations and wrapping pipe for concrete in between the shims to block cold air from the outside - this goes in between the new casing wood and the 2 x 6 inside the window frame.
Finally, pick whatever trim you want to use, and cut it to length putting a nice 45 degree cut on the tops for the sides, and on both ends of the top piece. Recess the trim away from the edge of the casing about 1/8" - 1/4" to give it a real professional look. You also might think about beveling the bottom part of the trim pieces so the edges go against the sill without any exposed cracks.
Then use a nail punch to counter-sink your finish nails and brads, and fill the holes with some wood putty for that wood (or calk if you decide you're going to paint this wood - yuck). Then either paint, stain, or just finish the wood however you want.
First, determine what you have under the drywall. Is this a 2 x 6 exterior wall? I assume it is since 2 x 4 walls haven't met the building code in a long time. Assuming these windows are set in 2 x 6 exterior walls think about cutting the drywall out of the case for the sides and the top first. Carefully remove the corner metal that provides the reinforcement to the corners, and take care not to break the drywall surrounding the window for the wall. What you should be left with is partially exposed 2 x 6 that represents the framing the window was originally set in. I'd pop the sill loose and cut my casing material out of the same type of stock as the sill, and use brads or finish nails to attach the casing to the sill - making sort of a box, and then set it inside the casing all at the same time. Use shims to square up and center the sill and the casing to the window. Once that is nailed in place slip some of that thin foam used in foundations and wrapping pipe for concrete in between the shims to block cold air from the outside - this goes in between the new casing wood and the 2 x 6 inside the window frame.
Finally, pick whatever trim you want to use, and cut it to length putting a nice 45 degree cut on the tops for the sides, and on both ends of the top piece. Recess the trim away from the edge of the casing about 1/8" - 1/4" to give it a real professional look. You also might think about beveling the bottom part of the trim pieces so the edges go against the sill without any exposed cracks.
Then use a nail punch to counter-sink your finish nails and brads, and fill the holes with some wood putty for that wood (or calk if you decide you're going to paint this wood - yuck). Then either paint, stain, or just finish the wood however you want.
rhurtado
10-05-04, 07:43 PM
Yes, this is inside the house. I am assuming the only way to determine what is under the drywall is to tear a portion away? Obviously, I'm a novice at this so anything you can offer up is appreciated. :o
COBALT
10-06-04, 12:25 AM
Yep. Knock on it with your knuckle. Sound hollow? Drill a small hole. Any wood on the bit?
Chances are the framing for the window opening is under that drywall inside the casing. Removing the drywall and the corner metal will expose the framing the window was originally placed in, which is what you want to nail your trim to. Simply nailing over the drywall is ok, but it might not give you the exposure of the window you want. You may have to use thinner wood to build your casement.
Chances are the framing for the window opening is under that drywall inside the casing. Removing the drywall and the corner metal will expose the framing the window was originally placed in, which is what you want to nail your trim to. Simply nailing over the drywall is ok, but it might not give you the exposure of the window you want. You may have to use thinner wood to build your casement.