Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Composite decking installation problem
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jcook
10-05-04, 06:16 AM
Hi, I'm a new user of this forum. I'm building a smallish deck on my house, and am using a composite decking brand called Profection. I'm having a LOT of trouble with the screws that are used to fasten it down. I'm using TrapEase composite decking screws (on the recommendation of the lumber yard where I bought the lumber). Supposedly they require no predrilling, and won't cause mushrooming. But, I cannot get a screw to start in the material unless I bang in a starter hole with an awl and hammer. I tried predrilling with my electric drill, but the bit would barely go into the material (I may need new sharper bits). Once I get a screw to start, it'll go in part way, and then the square driving hole starts to round off, and I have to back out the screw and start a new one. This keeps on happening, so that I'm using two or three screws per hole, before i can get one to go all the way in. I drive them just below the surface, and I am getting mushrooming despite the claims on the box of screws. The frame of the deck is pressure treated wood, and the drill I'm using is a Craftsman 18 volt cordless. I've never done this before, so I'm wondering if there's something I'm doing wrong, or if there's a better technique I should be using.
thanks,
Jack
thanks,
Jack
homebild
10-05-04, 07:04 AM
It has been my experience with composite decking that the boards still need to be pre-drilled and countersunk to assure proper attachment and to prevent mushrooming, despite what they manufactuer alleged.
creiter
10-05-04, 07:43 PM
I have no experience with Profection.
I am currently 90% finished with my deck and am using TrapEase screws with Certainteed Boardwalk composite decking and am having no trouble whatsoever. The screws are working exactly as the manufacturer states.
Check your drilling technique. It is my experience that you must hold the drill so that the bit is perfectly straight with the screw while driving. If you are at any angle to the screw, it will begin to strip out. The second tip is to use the higher speed on your drill, vs the lower speec (assuming it is a two speed transmission). Once the screw gets into the wood the resistance will increase, and it is harder to start a screw then it is to keep it going (the coefficient of static friction is much higher then that of moving friction).
Also, make sure you are putting adequate pressure on the drill, if you don't, the head will slip when the above situation occurs. Sometimes a "pulsing" use of the drill helps if you get into a stop situation half way through.
As always, a drill with significant torque will make the drill much easier. I have a Ryobi 18v, and I bought a Ridgid 18v when I started this job. With 510 in-lbs of torque, the Ridgid is much better for driving the deck screws.
The only other problem I can see is that the decking must be much, much denser and tougher then normal composite. If that is the case, I don't know what else you can do besides lots of pre drilling.
Good luck.
I am currently 90% finished with my deck and am using TrapEase screws with Certainteed Boardwalk composite decking and am having no trouble whatsoever. The screws are working exactly as the manufacturer states.
Check your drilling technique. It is my experience that you must hold the drill so that the bit is perfectly straight with the screw while driving. If you are at any angle to the screw, it will begin to strip out. The second tip is to use the higher speed on your drill, vs the lower speec (assuming it is a two speed transmission). Once the screw gets into the wood the resistance will increase, and it is harder to start a screw then it is to keep it going (the coefficient of static friction is much higher then that of moving friction).
Also, make sure you are putting adequate pressure on the drill, if you don't, the head will slip when the above situation occurs. Sometimes a "pulsing" use of the drill helps if you get into a stop situation half way through.
As always, a drill with significant torque will make the drill much easier. I have a Ryobi 18v, and I bought a Ridgid 18v when I started this job. With 510 in-lbs of torque, the Ridgid is much better for driving the deck screws.
The only other problem I can see is that the decking must be much, much denser and tougher then normal composite. If that is the case, I don't know what else you can do besides lots of pre drilling.
Good luck.
jcook
10-06-04, 10:47 AM
Thanks. My drill does have two speeds and I've been using the low speed. I'll try the high speed. I think I will also try predrilling, as I find it extremely difficult to get the screw started in this material. I don't know what the torque of my drill is in pounds, but it has 23 settings. I'm using the higher ones.
Jack
Jack
fewalt
10-06-04, 05:29 PM
I guess not all composites are equal!
I used one be Epoch (Weathergrain) and I positively had to pre-drill.
The stuff is harder than oak. As a matter of fact it is so dense that a dropped piece went right to the bottom of my pond.
Pre-drill, two drills at hand saves a lot of time!!
fred
I used one be Epoch (Weathergrain) and I positively had to pre-drill.
The stuff is harder than oak. As a matter of fact it is so dense that a dropped piece went right to the bottom of my pond.
Pre-drill, two drills at hand saves a lot of time!!
fred
jcook
10-07-04, 05:14 PM
I'm hoping that this density and hardness means that it will last a reeeallly loooong time! After all this work, it had better. Anyway, it'll be an enjoyable addition to my house.
thanks all,
Jack
thanks all,
Jack
fewalt
10-07-04, 08:02 PM
Ohhh, it WILL last a long time.
But it will still need occasional cleaning. And some composites have been known to fade.
Those are about the only drawbacks.
fred
But it will still need occasional cleaning. And some composites have been known to fade.
Those are about the only drawbacks.
fred
KeepItSimple
10-13-04, 07:18 AM
quikdrive.com