Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Materials for deck posts. railings, joists, ledger, and beams
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solon
09-16-04, 10:54 AM
This project has gone from fun to a First Class Nightmare.
At the risk of droning on, my drinking water well is located 34 feet from the corner of my deck. Simply trying to repair the old deck which was constructed with Spruce and fir (lasted over twenty years) on the original footings.
Was given Building permit to do it. And intended to simply build it the same way it was built and stay away from any pressure treated lumber at any cost.Using composite for decking itself.
The submitted plans did not indicate what type of materials would be utilized,
but the Building inpector who has already advised me to remove the spruce ledger that I had put up., now informs me that I must use pt lumber, or mahogany or cedar but he doesn't like cedar because its not structurally strong. The lumber suppliers in the area agree with me that they personally would not put pt lumber near a drinking water well. The deck is 16x16 so the cost of structural mahogany and cedar is prohibitive about the min for cedar for 2x8x16 is $5 a lin. ft. and mahogany is far more. It has to be ordered as we are on east coast. A patio is a good alternative , but we would still need stairs to the back door which is about 68" from grade. And the bldg. inspector is insidting on pt on decay resistant wood for that or concrete. Stock precast does not come that high and narrow enough there is a bathroom window in the way which would mean a custom stairway at probably more cost than mahogany joists. Have been told that prior to pt lumber felt tape was used on the top of the spruce or fir and the joists lasted as long as pt. My old ones had no felt and even lasted twenty years. Has anyone used the felt paper before, or have any suggestions to avoid the pt. lumber.
At the risk of droning on, my drinking water well is located 34 feet from the corner of my deck. Simply trying to repair the old deck which was constructed with Spruce and fir (lasted over twenty years) on the original footings.
Was given Building permit to do it. And intended to simply build it the same way it was built and stay away from any pressure treated lumber at any cost.Using composite for decking itself.
The submitted plans did not indicate what type of materials would be utilized,
but the Building inpector who has already advised me to remove the spruce ledger that I had put up., now informs me that I must use pt lumber, or mahogany or cedar but he doesn't like cedar because its not structurally strong. The lumber suppliers in the area agree with me that they personally would not put pt lumber near a drinking water well. The deck is 16x16 so the cost of structural mahogany and cedar is prohibitive about the min for cedar for 2x8x16 is $5 a lin. ft. and mahogany is far more. It has to be ordered as we are on east coast. A patio is a good alternative , but we would still need stairs to the back door which is about 68" from grade. And the bldg. inspector is insidting on pt on decay resistant wood for that or concrete. Stock precast does not come that high and narrow enough there is a bathroom window in the way which would mean a custom stairway at probably more cost than mahogany joists. Have been told that prior to pt lumber felt tape was used on the top of the spruce or fir and the joists lasted as long as pt. My old ones had no felt and even lasted twenty years. Has anyone used the felt paper before, or have any suggestions to avoid the pt. lumber.
Hellrazor
09-16-04, 02:01 PM
I wouldn't worry about the pressure treat issue. Its not like you are pumping something into the ground. Handing PT with gloves/etc is because the splinters can cause an infection quicker because of the treatment. Far worse things are in the rain everyday from polution. Saw the wood away from the project area or on a tarp so you can dispose of the sawdust.. then nothing gets onto the ground.
homebild
09-17-04, 01:17 PM
I wouldn't worry about the pressure treat issue. Its not like you are pumping something into the ground. Handing PT with gloves/etc is because the splinters can cause an infection quicker because of the treatment. Far worse things are in the rain everyday from polution. Saw the wood away from the project area or on a tarp so you can dispose of the sawdust.. then nothing gets onto the ground.
Right.
There is absolutely no concern with using rteated lumber for your deck and your water supply.
Use the treated lumber.
Right.
There is absolutely no concern with using rteated lumber for your deck and your water supply.
Use the treated lumber.
fewalt
09-17-04, 03:26 PM
Solon,
You're "lumber suppliers in the area" should have also informed you that the newer PT lumber no longer contains arsenic!!
fred
(not Solon, Ohio, is it??)
You're "lumber suppliers in the area" should have also informed you that the newer PT lumber no longer contains arsenic!!
fred
(not Solon, Ohio, is it??)
lefty
09-17-04, 07:58 PM
So let me chime in. I'm going along with what Hellrazor, homebild, and fewalt are telling you -- the use of PT lumber ISN'T going to contaminate you drinking water. Even if you used the old CCA stuff, (which you can't get anymore!!), you aren't dealing with enough of it to matter. And if a little of it DID drip on the ground, SO LITTLE of it would get to the bottom of the drinking water well (DIRT is a REALLY GOOD filter!!), it wouldn't matter. You would have to live in the house for more than 1,000 years before a cummulative affect came in to play.