Fireplaces, Heating Stoves, Flues and Chimneys - refacing Fireplace
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Glove
08-31-04, 04:46 PM
I removed the wooden mantel from my fireplace. Now all that is left is an opening surrounded by 8.5"x1.5"x4" red brick. So it protrudes 4" from the wall.
The hearth is flush with the hard wood floor and is made of 8.5"x4" red brick. I'm not sure how deep these bricks are.
Anyhow, I'd like to cover the brick w/ concrete to give it a "modern" or "industrial" look. Then I'd like to put a shelf above it made of solid wood.
What do I need to do to prep the surface of the brick and grout for the concrete to bond to it?
Is there any type of adherent that I need to put on it? Or do I need to cover the surface with wire mesh and then apply the concrete?
What is the minimum amount of space needed between the opening (29.5"H X 36"W and the shelf? And how far out can the shelf protrude?
I hope I'm being clear enough here? Please advise.
P.S. I wish I could post pictures of what I have to work with and what I want my result to be. Why can't we post photos in this forum? Wouldn't it be so much easier?
Anyhow, thank you.
The hearth is flush with the hard wood floor and is made of 8.5"x4" red brick. I'm not sure how deep these bricks are.
Anyhow, I'd like to cover the brick w/ concrete to give it a "modern" or "industrial" look. Then I'd like to put a shelf above it made of solid wood.
What do I need to do to prep the surface of the brick and grout for the concrete to bond to it?
Is there any type of adherent that I need to put on it? Or do I need to cover the surface with wire mesh and then apply the concrete?
What is the minimum amount of space needed between the opening (29.5"H X 36"W and the shelf? And how far out can the shelf protrude?
I hope I'm being clear enough here? Please advise.
P.S. I wish I could post pictures of what I have to work with and what I want my result to be. Why can't we post photos in this forum? Wouldn't it be so much easier?
Anyhow, thank you.
DavidJ
09-09-04, 01:44 PM
What I did and what I recommend you do is apply a plaster finish to the brick. (You really don't want to try using concrete or a mortar mix.) Here are the steps:
1. Use a brick cleaner and plenty of water to clean the existig surface.
2. Nail up corner and edge beading to establish the edges of your new surface. The edges of the corner and edge bead will be 1/2" off the surface of the brick. Fill in the surface area with expanded metal lath. Fasten the above with short galvanized roofing nails (large heads). Pound the nails into the mortar not the brick. If the mortar is too hard try pre-drilling with a slightly smaller carbide tipped concrete drill. Nails should be about 8" on center.
3. Mix batches of plaster/sand/water and apply to the mesh. (Make sure bricks are slightly moist before applying plaster.) If mixed properly the plaster will have the consistency to stay in place. Build up the lplaster to achieve your 1/2" thickness and use a metal straight edge against the corner/edge beading to scree off the excess plaster and locate areas that need more plaster. Don't worry about a smooth surface at this stage. Once the plaster begins to set up you can use a damp foam float to smooth the surface.
All of the materials you need to do this are available from a masonary supply store. Don't go to Home Depot. They do not have the correct materials or knowledge.
Also note that you can achieve a flat or gritty surface by using fine or coarse sand. Again this is not HD sand but graded sand used by professional plasterers.
One last thought, start lastering on the "back side" if you have one so you can improve your skills before attempting th emore visible surfaces.
Good luck,
DavidJ
1. Use a brick cleaner and plenty of water to clean the existig surface.
2. Nail up corner and edge beading to establish the edges of your new surface. The edges of the corner and edge bead will be 1/2" off the surface of the brick. Fill in the surface area with expanded metal lath. Fasten the above with short galvanized roofing nails (large heads). Pound the nails into the mortar not the brick. If the mortar is too hard try pre-drilling with a slightly smaller carbide tipped concrete drill. Nails should be about 8" on center.
3. Mix batches of plaster/sand/water and apply to the mesh. (Make sure bricks are slightly moist before applying plaster.) If mixed properly the plaster will have the consistency to stay in place. Build up the lplaster to achieve your 1/2" thickness and use a metal straight edge against the corner/edge beading to scree off the excess plaster and locate areas that need more plaster. Don't worry about a smooth surface at this stage. Once the plaster begins to set up you can use a damp foam float to smooth the surface.
All of the materials you need to do this are available from a masonary supply store. Don't go to Home Depot. They do not have the correct materials or knowledge.
Also note that you can achieve a flat or gritty surface by using fine or coarse sand. Again this is not HD sand but graded sand used by professional plasterers.
One last thought, start lastering on the "back side" if you have one so you can improve your skills before attempting th emore visible surfaces.
Good luck,
DavidJ
JayneS
09-17-04, 09:38 AM
I'm gonna pop in here and ask another question that relates a bit to the original-In my case the brick is fine, but the original builder used black grout. I would like to change that, if it's not too horrific a task. Would you use the plaster method to modify the grout color, or re grout it? There is about a 1/4 inch recess that could accomodate the new material.
Glove, in response to your how far can the mantel stick out I would ask a couple questions-Is it near a path of travel? and if it is, is there a raised hearth at the bottom? -if yes, your mantel can go out as far as the hearth. If it's near where people walk and there is no hearth, a mantle protruding into an area of travel can cause some problems if it's corners are at eye level for shorter people and for those of us tallish types it can be a source of bruises. (I'm writing from experience ! not code requirements :)
Glove, in response to your how far can the mantel stick out I would ask a couple questions-Is it near a path of travel? and if it is, is there a raised hearth at the bottom? -if yes, your mantel can go out as far as the hearth. If it's near where people walk and there is no hearth, a mantle protruding into an area of travel can cause some problems if it's corners are at eye level for shorter people and for those of us tallish types it can be a source of bruises. (I'm writing from experience ! not code requirements :)
DavidJ
09-17-04, 03:02 PM
Sounds ugleeey!
You should be able to apply new portland cement grout in whatever color you want over the existing grout. The new grout should bond to the old if you carefully paint on an acrylic bonding agent to the grout and use the same agent instead of water in you new grout. YOu may also want to consider using a right angle griner to remove a quarter inch of the old grout so you have more leeway in striking a recesse in your new grout.
Check with a local masonry supply company (not HD) to get the right bonding agent for your job and look at the color additives they carry. For brick work you use a morter mix (sand/portland cement/water or acrylic hardener) and add powdered pigments to achieve the color you want.
Good luck
DavidJ
You should be able to apply new portland cement grout in whatever color you want over the existing grout. The new grout should bond to the old if you carefully paint on an acrylic bonding agent to the grout and use the same agent instead of water in you new grout. YOu may also want to consider using a right angle griner to remove a quarter inch of the old grout so you have more leeway in striking a recesse in your new grout.
Check with a local masonry supply company (not HD) to get the right bonding agent for your job and look at the color additives they carry. For brick work you use a morter mix (sand/portland cement/water or acrylic hardener) and add powdered pigments to achieve the color you want.
Good luck
DavidJ