Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - baseboard/moudling questions
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : baseboard/moudling questions
pdl
08-29-04, 12:30 PM
Hi:
I just finished installing a new hardwood floor. As a part of the installation, I removed the baseboards. As a part of the reinstallation, I'm now putting the baaseboards back on and adding 3/4 round moulding. My questions:
1. The baseboard moulding is looser than when I removed it (not flush with the wall). (I had to use a utility knife to cut through paint when I took out the moulding.) Now, there a slight gap between the baseboard and the wall. Should I glue the moulding to the wall? Caulk it? Just repaint and let the paint fill the gaps?
2. As for the 3/4 round that needs to be nailed to the baseboards and float above the new floor, is there a simple formula to calculate material lost due to the miter cuts? For instance, I needed to prepare a piece and measured from the inside corner of the wall to the outside corner of the wall (35 inches). After both miter cuts for the inside and outside corners, the piece was about 1 inch short. Should just routinely add an inch to the measurement I take from the wall to compensate? Is there some trick to cutting and fitting 3/4 round that would make this easier? Or is it just a matter of cutting long and shaving down as I go?
Thanks,
pdl
I just finished installing a new hardwood floor. As a part of the installation, I removed the baseboards. As a part of the reinstallation, I'm now putting the baaseboards back on and adding 3/4 round moulding. My questions:
1. The baseboard moulding is looser than when I removed it (not flush with the wall). (I had to use a utility knife to cut through paint when I took out the moulding.) Now, there a slight gap between the baseboard and the wall. Should I glue the moulding to the wall? Caulk it? Just repaint and let the paint fill the gaps?
2. As for the 3/4 round that needs to be nailed to the baseboards and float above the new floor, is there a simple formula to calculate material lost due to the miter cuts? For instance, I needed to prepare a piece and measured from the inside corner of the wall to the outside corner of the wall (35 inches). After both miter cuts for the inside and outside corners, the piece was about 1 inch short. Should just routinely add an inch to the measurement I take from the wall to compensate? Is there some trick to cutting and fitting 3/4 round that would make this easier? Or is it just a matter of cutting long and shaving down as I go?
Thanks,
pdl
Cedwin
08-29-04, 12:59 PM
1. reattach moulding, caulk and then decide if you need to paint.
2. cut the inside corner then hold in place and mark the outside corner.
Edwin
2. cut the inside corner then hold in place and mark the outside corner.
Edwin
Dan Thompson
09-06-04, 01:19 PM
I use ALEX PLUS for caulking. Works good for me. Use a damp finger or rag to smooth it.
Hardwood Guy
09-06-04, 04:54 PM
Some measuring guidelines for those interested...
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwoodinstaller/measuring.htm
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwoodinstaller/measuring.htm