Carpentry and Woodworking - Oak Stair Puzzle - inherited problem

Hello,

I am new to this forum, and have found many of the posts very useful.
So here's my dilemma

Background...

The problem I have is an inherited "design feature" the previous owner had built into the house.
We have a set of stairs that are part solid oak and part carpet. The first 4 stairs are curved and facing the entry way. When they bend past the entry they run straight and turn into carpet on the next 9 stairs (over pine treads and risers). The rise is 8 1/4. All 13 stairs are closed end on both sides.

We are in the process of finishing 3/4 inch solid floors upstairs (at the top of said staircase) where there used to be carpet. I'm now planning the removal of the carpet on the 9 straight stairs, in preparation for solid oak.

The problem is that because the first 4 stairs are solid oak, putting 1 inch oak treads over the existing pine would result in almost a 9 inch rise. Max code around here is 8 1/4. And if I tear out all existing pine treads and risers I have the same problem, but now at the top stair where the stairs meet the landing from the new 3/4 floors.

I have considered both options heavily, but short of shaving each of the 9 new treads down to spread the difference over the entire run, I can't think of any other options. Even if I were to get this done by someone else, they will have the same issues to deal with.

So my questions are..

Is it worth removal of all existing treads since either way, I will have to compensate this rise difference on either the top or the bottom of the staircase?

Are there any other ways to adjust for this difference in rise?

Is this the right forum for this question ?

Thanks in advance!!!

Ryan :confused:

I would remove the pine and install the oak planed to the thickness that makes it work out. Figure out what thickness you need and order the treads planed to that thickness.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply Chris,

In thinking that through, I will have a gap at the top of each side of the stringer, since they are keyed in. How do I best fill that in? Will it affect teh structural integrity of the tread?

I want to do this right the first time, but replacing the stringers as well is a bit more than I bargained for...

Ryan

Before we beat this to death, it may be well to have the folks who will provide the treads come out and look at this problem and make treads to solve it.

Thanks Chris,
I wasn't planning on having the fabrication done by someone else. I have already have one inch solid oak tread stock that I was planning to plane to the needed thinkness myself.

Problem is... if I replace the all the pine treads I'll still be be 1 inch short at the top riser. If I cap the current stairs with a full one inch at the top and gradually decreasing thickness all the way down to the transition I can stay within the local code.

Unless I recut the stringers, I don't see how (by replacing the treads entirely) to achieve the thickness variation to meet both the top landing and current oak transition. I realize that capping is probably not be ideal and that's why I'm looking for input.

I appreciate the feedback.

Regards,

Ryan

I now see the problem. You said you were finishing a 3/4" floor at the top. I thought you meant sanding and coating. I now understand that you are adding a 3/4" floor on top of the existing flooring. That is where the difference is found.

Structurally, the treads depend upon their construction and sitting on the stringers and risers.

Since you can plane your own, making each one the needed thickness to take up the difference and still stay within code seems to be the best method.

You are right about inheriting a problem that someone else saw as a good design.

Thanks Chris,

As I re-read my post I can see how you read it like that.
Thanks for the input. I'll be planing soon.

Regards,

Ryan :rolleyes:

Post back and let us know how it works out.