Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Toliet Guts

Please forgive my lack of correct terms :)

But I've noticed that toliet guts (all the stuff in the tank) differ. Some have that large black floating ball that shuts off the water when it reaches a height and others do not. I would think that one type of toliet guts would be all that society needs...however science did give us both VHS and BETA. Why are their two types....is one better than the other?

Thanks
Brian

Could be......
I just replaced my toilet for a taller bowl and this new float in the tank is of the 'float cup' version vs my other toilet(s) have the ball float.
The float cup looks like a better design as it (appears) that it may exert less pressure on the shutoff valve mechanism....
Just an observation.

When you design something and apply for a patent,only you or those you assign can make this design. Change the design and you have a different product for the same purpose. All companys who make the different designs think theirs is better.This is the" building a better mouse trap" concept. We as consumers buy what we think looks and might work better.
As long as if serves its purpose and dosen't require a lot of attention I personally don't care whats in there(can't see it so why bother). :D

Good point...especially in the toilet tank. Who cares what it looks like, so long as it does what it is designed to do.
.
The Fluidmaster 400..is a better 'mousetrap' design from an outsiders point of view...if you have to change that part.
But the other method, with 'ball float' serves the same purpose and has been around for quite a long time.
Society dictates what is needed or not. Either way, both systems do the job as it is intended to do.
So take your pick. I have no idea if there is much of a 'cost' difference between the 2 systems, but I doubt it would be worth loosing sleep over.
So long as it works......youre OK.

I have a low capacity 1.6 (ie, water resticted toilet) made by Kohler, it's a one piece, has a fluidmaster valve (I'm not certain of it's number but it's at the most about 18 mo.s old) and stoped shuting off and rarley works as a "water shut-off valve" the way it used to all the time. It was easy to install and no adjustment was needed so I don't even know if they can be adjusted and so far as I can tell it's owner's manual vanished into thin air. Help, I know it's not a leak execpt in the valve itself.
Any clues would be most appreciated and thank you for your time.
Sincerely,
Brent Skott :confused:

Im not a 'fluidmaster' master at all as this is my 1st one, but I happen to have the toilet bowl/tank instructions right here. They can be adjusted by squeezing the water level adjustment clip and moving the floating cup up or down along the stainless steel link. That would be used to adjust the water level. - also be sure that the end of the refill tube is NOT below the water level of the tank when inserted in the overflow pipe. My tank says that the water level should be 5/8" below the top of the overflow pipe. Yours may be similar or not.. but should say so on the inside of the tank around the edge...
Looking at their 'troubleshooting' info, they say that if it doesnt shut off, there may be dirt/residue build up in the valve itself. Its says to turn off the water supply. Remove valve TOP by lifting arm and rotating top and arm 1/8 turn counterclockwise, pressing down slightly on the cap.
While holding a container over the uncapped VALVE to prevent splashing, turn water supply on and off a few times...(to clear the valve...) Leave water supply off.
Replace TOP by engaging lugs and rotating 1/8 turn clockwise. MAKE CERTAIN TIP IS TURNED TO THE LOCKED POSITION. VALVE MAY NOT TURN ON IF TIP IS NOT FULLY TURNED TO THE LOCKED POSITION. (their capital letters....not me).
They do mention that if fill valve wont turn on or shut off or refill of tank water is slow after valve has been in use for some time, Fluidmaster model 242 Replacement Seal may be needed.
Then they say to visit their website for more solutions to toilet problems.
www.fluidmaster.com
Hope this helps ...and let us know how you make out.

WoW! Thanks, the toilet actually works well now, because you gave me the clues I needed and the site gave some diagrams. I was initially afraid of taking the top off, it seemed as though I was breaking it. I took the stem out of the tank (after shuting off the water supply) I had already taken the cap off and had been messing around with the valve that way. So I took the valve out of the tank washed it, and found a lot of mineral deposits around the float ring, I rubbed that stuff off anywhere I found it, ran hot water full throttle in it. I replaced the valve stem, adjusted the float ring to shut it off sooner, and it still didn't work. So I said to heck (actually quite stronger wording) and decided if the thing broke I'd just go buy another one, what was there to lose? It didn't break, I was able to remove the rubber seal and clean it, then I used the open valve to clear out anything that might be in the pipe with a upside down cup so the water didn't shoot all over the bathroom, put it all back together and it actually works and does not run non-stop! Thank you very much.
Sincerely,
Brent Skott

Excellent - .
Glad it all worked out for you.
Isnt that rewarding, to be able to fix it yourself.
and you are most welcome

the guts in the tank are just that guts. it boils down to what you feel comfortable with and what will work best for you. If your old fashioned, the old float ball and if not go with the new float cup style. At this piont it is a matter of preference.