Carpentry and Woodworking - building drawer boxes
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mr_dove
07-06-04, 09:54 PM
I built a bed for my son with space underneath for drawers. I need to build the drawers now though.
I know and understand the basic woodworking required to build the drawer box but I'm unsure of measurement allowances.
What I mean by that is this (measurements estimated):
The space in each compartment is about 24"Wx18"Dx9"H
I obviously don't build the box to those exact dimensions. I have to allow space for drawer slides (I don't know how much).
My questions come down to this:
How do I know how much space to allow on each side of the box? Is this dictated by the type of slide used or is there a standard?
How do I make sure that the front of the box lines up with the front of the cabinet?
Any suggestions are welcome.
I know and understand the basic woodworking required to build the drawer box but I'm unsure of measurement allowances.
What I mean by that is this (measurements estimated):
The space in each compartment is about 24"Wx18"Dx9"H
I obviously don't build the box to those exact dimensions. I have to allow space for drawer slides (I don't know how much).
My questions come down to this:
How do I know how much space to allow on each side of the box? Is this dictated by the type of slide used or is there a standard?
How do I make sure that the front of the box lines up with the front of the cabinet?
Any suggestions are welcome.
chfite
07-07-04, 07:58 AM
This is basic box-building, one of the great challenges of woodworking.
Drawer slides have the measurement for the space allowance printed on the package. This is a critical value for slides that mount on the sides of the boxes. Often the allowance for error is 1/32". Buy the hardware before you start construction.
If you build a box with butt joints, the dimension with the overlaps will be the measured amount of free space less twice the actual thickness of the overlapping wood to determine the dimension of the piece overlapped. E. g.:
24 inches x 18 inches ( the dots are space holders for the diagram)
||=======||
||..................||
||..................||
||=======||
If the top of this diagram represents the front of the box, the actual measurement of the front piece will be 24 inches less twice the thickness of the sides, say 2x.5, for 1/2 inch wood, less the allowance for the slides, say 2x .75. So this piece would be cut 21.5 inches.
Free space is 24 inches:
Slides, each side, .75 times 2 = 1.5 inches
Sides, each side, .5 times 2 = 1 inch
Front piece is 21.5 inches
total = 24 inches
The front aligns with the face of the cabinet due to alignment of the slides on the sides of the box and where mounted on the frame if these are self-aligning slides. Most are. If an additional front is mounted on the drawer, take its dimensions into account when building the drawer box.
The depth is detemined by the method of construction of the bottom. If it is let into the sides and front and back in a groove, the depth of the box is the actual size allowing space for the drawer to run in and out of the opening. If it is fastened to the bottom, make the depth of the box shallower by the amount of the actual measurement of the bottom material.
If you build with dovetails, the dimensions of the sides are the actual dimensions of the free space. This is because there is no overlap.
If you build with rabbets or locking joints, the measurements are different.
Measure the actual thickness of the wood. For example, 1/2 inch plywood is rarely exactly 1/2 inch thick. It may be less, but never more.
When you get ready to cut out the sides and front and back of the box, rip all of them at the same time so that they are exactly the same width.
Hope this helps.
Drawer slides have the measurement for the space allowance printed on the package. This is a critical value for slides that mount on the sides of the boxes. Often the allowance for error is 1/32". Buy the hardware before you start construction.
If you build a box with butt joints, the dimension with the overlaps will be the measured amount of free space less twice the actual thickness of the overlapping wood to determine the dimension of the piece overlapped. E. g.:
24 inches x 18 inches ( the dots are space holders for the diagram)
||=======||
||..................||
||..................||
||=======||
If the top of this diagram represents the front of the box, the actual measurement of the front piece will be 24 inches less twice the thickness of the sides, say 2x.5, for 1/2 inch wood, less the allowance for the slides, say 2x .75. So this piece would be cut 21.5 inches.
Free space is 24 inches:
Slides, each side, .75 times 2 = 1.5 inches
Sides, each side, .5 times 2 = 1 inch
Front piece is 21.5 inches
total = 24 inches
The front aligns with the face of the cabinet due to alignment of the slides on the sides of the box and where mounted on the frame if these are self-aligning slides. Most are. If an additional front is mounted on the drawer, take its dimensions into account when building the drawer box.
The depth is detemined by the method of construction of the bottom. If it is let into the sides and front and back in a groove, the depth of the box is the actual size allowing space for the drawer to run in and out of the opening. If it is fastened to the bottom, make the depth of the box shallower by the amount of the actual measurement of the bottom material.
If you build with dovetails, the dimensions of the sides are the actual dimensions of the free space. This is because there is no overlap.
If you build with rabbets or locking joints, the measurements are different.
Measure the actual thickness of the wood. For example, 1/2 inch plywood is rarely exactly 1/2 inch thick. It may be less, but never more.
When you get ready to cut out the sides and front and back of the box, rip all of them at the same time so that they are exactly the same width.
Hope this helps.
fewalt
07-07-04, 04:25 PM
I'm a fellow woodworker and all that Chris said is right on!
But, for under a kid's bed, here's what I'd do.
Make the boxes deep, add wheels and a front handle.
fred
But, for under a kid's bed, here's what I'd do.
Make the boxes deep, add wheels and a front handle.
fred
Dave_D1945
07-08-04, 07:01 AM
You need to buy your drawer glides and follow their instructions. Make sure you get glides rated for the 'worst case' drawer load and make the drawers sturdy enough to hold up. (1/2" or 3/4" bottoms may be necessary)
You should also decide if you want full extension glides. I prefer them since you won't have to poke around to get stuff out of the back of the drawer.
Go to www.rockler.com and look at their 'Accuride' glides. They're a little pricey, but install easily and have some adjustment capability to compensate for an imperfect installation.
You should also decide if you want full extension glides. I prefer them since you won't have to poke around to get stuff out of the back of the drawer.
Go to www.rockler.com and look at their 'Accuride' glides. They're a little pricey, but install easily and have some adjustment capability to compensate for an imperfect installation.
Big Dan
07-16-04, 08:42 AM
Is the drawer area fully enclosed? An option besides the casters or slides is to use the Mighty Master Furniture mover glides "http://www.shoplet.com/office/db/MAS87005.html" on the bottome and let them slide in and out. Casters will want to turn and cause havok when returning the travel of the drawer.