Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Ripping Out Old Cabinet
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fraujoolie
06-27-04, 09:01 PM
:confused: Hi - I'm trying to install a new cabinet/sink in my bathroom. The existing cabinet and sink is really cemented in there, and attached to two other cabinets on the side. I don't know how to tackle pulling out the old cabinets, especially the one with the sink attached! There doesn't seem to be water shut off valves underneath the sink. Should I turn off the main line? How am I going to get it out? I'm doing this alone and I'm not very handy. Thanks for any advice --- Julie fraujoolie@yahoo.com
Mike Swearingen
06-28-04, 02:57 AM
Yes, you definitely will need to turn off the main water shut-off valve if you don't have shut-off valves on the hot and cold lines under the sink.
The bathroom base cabinets should be held to the wall by screws through the cabinet frame and will probably be screwed to each other where they come together, at least near the front. The sink also may be held to the top of the vanity and the wall with caulk, which you cut with a sharp utility knife along the wall. You should be able to just lift the sink up to break to caulk dollops on top of the vanity.
You need to measure everything carefully and make sure how it will fit back in. Are you replacing only the vanity sink base and sink, or all of the base cabinets? What type of pipes do you have?
Give us more detailed information (please stay on this same thread), and we'll be glad to help you.
Good luck!
Mike
The bathroom base cabinets should be held to the wall by screws through the cabinet frame and will probably be screwed to each other where they come together, at least near the front. The sink also may be held to the top of the vanity and the wall with caulk, which you cut with a sharp utility knife along the wall. You should be able to just lift the sink up to break to caulk dollops on top of the vanity.
You need to measure everything carefully and make sure how it will fit back in. Are you replacing only the vanity sink base and sink, or all of the base cabinets? What type of pipes do you have?
Give us more detailed information (please stay on this same thread), and we'll be glad to help you.
Good luck!
Mike
fraujoolie
06-28-04, 09:40 AM
Well, I broke up the caulk on the backspash and pulled that out. I think if I just disconnect where the sink attaches to the pipes, I can pull the sink out, countertop and all. I think. I'm still not sure how the cabinets are attached to the wall. Maybe they are just sitting there...
I am putting in a new base cabinet and a sink that drops in the top, and fills the entire top of the cabinet (no counter-top space). I don't know what kind of pipes I have. The drain on the existing sink looks like it's plastic.
The water pipes look like galvanized steel. My new sink has some plastic parts for the drain, and the faucet pipes look like stainless steel or chrome. My new faucet pipes to the sink aren't threaded. I'm wondering how they are going to attach to the water line. Thanks for your help -Julie
I am putting in a new base cabinet and a sink that drops in the top, and fills the entire top of the cabinet (no counter-top space). I don't know what kind of pipes I have. The drain on the existing sink looks like it's plastic.
The water pipes look like galvanized steel. My new sink has some plastic parts for the drain, and the faucet pipes look like stainless steel or chrome. My new faucet pipes to the sink aren't threaded. I'm wondering how they are going to attach to the water line. Thanks for your help -Julie
Mike Swearingen
06-29-04, 12:20 PM
It's possible that the cabinets are not screwed to the wall. You can easily tell by looking for screwheads in the cabinet frame. When you set your new cabinet bases in, use beveled shims under the bases to level them, if necessary. (Beveled cedar shingle strips work well for this.)
You should install your faucet and sink drain tailpiece on the sink before installing the sink on the vanity cabinet base.
Roll a roll of fresh plumber's putty in your hands about the size of a pencil and wrap it around the hole in the bottom of the sink before tightening the drain lip down on it. Just wipe off the excess. There should be a rubber seal ring and threaded ring to tighten on the tailpiece under the sink.
If it has a white plastic PVC drain assembly, you should be able to hand-tighten the slip nuts on the plastic washers. Make up the assembly before tightening it from the sink tailpiece to the wall drain pipe.
If you have galvanized steel supply pipes, they should be threaded on the ends. Wrap 2-3 flat wraps of teflon tape clockwise only around the male threads of the pipes, and screw on new 1/2"-to-3/8" shut-off valves. Tighten the valves on tightly. Use a back up pipe wrnech on the pipes.
Get 3/8" nut stainless steel flex connectors to go from the shut-off valves to the faucet. You will need two 3/8" brass compression fittings to go onto the 3/8" straight copper lines from the faucet. Take the lower nut and ferrule (compression ring) off of the fittings, and the flex connectors should screw right onto the ends of the fittings. You don't need teflon tape or any pipe compound. Use a baack-up wrench on the fittings when tightening them onto the faucet lines. The flex connectors have built-in rubber seals (snug them up good, but don't over-tighten them).
Good Luck!
Mike
You should install your faucet and sink drain tailpiece on the sink before installing the sink on the vanity cabinet base.
Roll a roll of fresh plumber's putty in your hands about the size of a pencil and wrap it around the hole in the bottom of the sink before tightening the drain lip down on it. Just wipe off the excess. There should be a rubber seal ring and threaded ring to tighten on the tailpiece under the sink.
If it has a white plastic PVC drain assembly, you should be able to hand-tighten the slip nuts on the plastic washers. Make up the assembly before tightening it from the sink tailpiece to the wall drain pipe.
If you have galvanized steel supply pipes, they should be threaded on the ends. Wrap 2-3 flat wraps of teflon tape clockwise only around the male threads of the pipes, and screw on new 1/2"-to-3/8" shut-off valves. Tighten the valves on tightly. Use a back up pipe wrnech on the pipes.
Get 3/8" nut stainless steel flex connectors to go from the shut-off valves to the faucet. You will need two 3/8" brass compression fittings to go onto the 3/8" straight copper lines from the faucet. Take the lower nut and ferrule (compression ring) off of the fittings, and the flex connectors should screw right onto the ends of the fittings. You don't need teflon tape or any pipe compound. Use a baack-up wrench on the fittings when tightening them onto the faucet lines. The flex connectors have built-in rubber seals (snug them up good, but don't over-tighten them).
Good Luck!
Mike