Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Doorway transitions - location

Just wondering what the 'norm' is, if there is one, for placing the transition pieces at/in between doorway/room openings?
Should it be placed in between the 'opening', or at the edge along the wall, where one room leads into the other?
Or is just a matter of choice?
Debating whether or not to use a transition into 2 small closets....tho'.
Im at that point now, just finished laying my laminate (1st time) and at the 'crossroads' of meeting the next room. (LR into Kitchen)
I did end up running my laminate from LR, thru Hall and into the DR without any difficulty. Left a good expansion joint at all walls which will be covered by my existing (refinished) moldings.
Looks damn good, if I say so myself.
The UniClic was a little tricky to 'click' into place...and since I ran one room into the other, I ended up having to switch the process from 'tounge into groove' to 'groove into tounge' More tapping involved but that was the way it had to be.
It was worth to small cost to buy their 'installation kit'. Helped alot.
I only used my (old belt driven) table saw for all the cuts...so that worked out pretty good. - Lots of sawdust....outside, fortunately.

speaking as a non-pro simple DIYer, we didn't use any kind of transition piece from our kitchen into the washer/dryer "room". just ran the flooring right in there. no problems.

as for "where" to put the transition piece: we had to decide that also where our dining room (laminate) opens into the living room (carpet). [no door - just an opening] we based our decision on what was easiest for us. the opening had trim moulding on the wall as well as on the "insides" of the opening. that was actually the wall we started on, so we just ran our first strip straight across the opening, not "into" the opening at all. so there were no cuts made to the flooring there. we just undercut the trim mouldings that were attached to the wall, not the piece of trim that is on the "inside" of the opening. however, the transition piece was about 2" wide or so, so by the time we laid it on top of that raw edge, the thing ended up looking about centered on the opening, which is what i wanted anyway! if we'd cut some flooring strips to go "inside" the opening, the transition piece would've been almost on the other side of the opening. (hope all that makes sense)

however, for an opening that has a door in it (such as a closet), you want to make sure that when the door is closed, the transition piece isn't sticking out visibly from under the door. have the transition piece be directly centered under the door or slightly inside the closet, so you have a nice look from the room-side.

At doorways, The transition should be pretty much directly under the closed door. Like a threshold, basically.

Thanks for the info, you two.... Makes sense.
Where our LR meets the kitchen opening, (no door), I ended up placing the LR laminate 1/2 way into the 'opening' which will meet the (next install) of the kitchen cork plank. I was not able to get a full board infront of the kitchen opening because of the way the last row of the LR didnt allow that. I was looking at it as though the LR was leading into the kitchen, 'kinda look' and as CDW mentioned, like a threshold.
At the small closet in the hall, (18"x23"), I ended up with the T piece showing about a 1/8" from the closed door. That was because of where a full board from the hall ended. I did that so I could use up some of my 'scrap' pieces that had no tounge and groove ends,(short side) which I ended up running perpendicular to the hall floor in the closet. There is the next opening into the office, with no door, right next to the closet, there I will probably place the 'T' in the center of the opening as well, like a threshold, since Ill be using the same laminate in the office as is the rest of the LR, DR and hallway. We were considering running the office laminate perpendicular to the hall laminate as the office is wider than longer, when in the hall, looking 'into' the office - and where there is a wide window on the 'long' wall. I will probably run the boards thru into the 2 office closets this time.
The other issue/concern Ive noticed, is that there isnt any room for the 'T' to snap down in place over the lam. With the UniClic 'Combination' underlay and the lam., together measures 1/2" thick(high), yet the 'T' molding is only 1/4" thick (from underside...if you know what I mean). Hence, I wont be able to click the 'T' cap in place. Could that be because I ran the underlay too close to the 'T' cap track? The Lam, is thicker that the 'T' cap to start with.
What to do?!?!?

So your saying, the moldings aluminum track top, is more the ¼" down, from the top of the laminate surface and the "T" molding won't reach?

Have you tried it to see?

Yes.. though the track is plastic.

Something tells me you got trim moldings for a thinner flooring.

Call the manufacturer and tell them your delima. They would be the one to ask for a correct solution, if those are in fact the right moldings and tracks.

Yes, I intend to agree....
I have been in touch with UniClic with this..and this was their/her reply...
.
"There are in general two types of profiles: plastic profiles with laminated
surface (with brown rail) or multiplex profiles with laminated surface (with
a black rail). The plastic profiles with laminated surface are clasped on
the base floor by means of light brown rail. The laminate floor is clasped
between the profile. The rail can also be glued on the base floor with glue
that is polystyrene compatible. For the multiplex profiles with laminated
surface, the black plastic rail can also be fixed to the base floor by
screwing or gluing (also with glue that is polystyrene compatible). When it
is necessary to bridge height differences, the black rail can also be
installed ON the underlay. In this case the only possibility is of course
screwing.
Hereafter the laminate is installed. Along the plastic rail one must leave
the usual dilatation joint by means of spacers. Finally the spacers are
removed and the profile is clipsed into the rail."
.
I presume, (scarry thought), that I have the 'multiplex' profiles, based on their construction/material and the way they cut, with black rails.
When I replied to her, she came back with this.....
.
"The only option I am afraid is to remove the rail and fix it ON TOP OF the
underlay..."
.
If that be the case, then the rail would not be 'attached' to the floor, (unless screwed or nailed to the floor. - Im on concrete...) - and EVERTHIING would then 'float'... which may or may not be a good thing. Even if that was achieved, wouldnt the underlay be compressed from being nailed or screwed down, or...just fastened to the floor by either method without compressing the underlay....
.
The person Ive been dealing with at UniClic is now on holidays for a couple of weeks.. so Im not sure what to do at this point. I still have more flooring to do with 2 more transitions, so I need to figure out a solution before I proceed.
I'll check with the dealer (United Carpet) and see if they have any insite....(doubt it though).

Drill and peg the concrete, to accept a screw. Use the underlayment doubled or find some vinyl tile to riase the track. You may have to get creative.

When I install, the tracks get checked & installed first thing, before I start installing the flooring. Every molding manufacture has a different deal, and I need to know where to terminate the flooring.

Drill and peg the concrete, to accept a screw. Use the underlayment doubled or find some vinyl tile to riase the track. You may have to get creative.
...
Absolutely. Creativity is what its all about.
I figured Id use some scrap vinyl siding or countertop laminate cut to measure.. Then glue that down, with the track glued on top of that. This Thompson construction adhesive is damn good. Should do the trick.
Id rather avoid drilling a few small holes then peg em'.
Owning a home - you gotta be creative.

When I install, the tracks get checked & installed first thing, before I start installing the flooring. Every molding manufacture has a different deal, and I need to know where to terminate the flooring.
...I can see that...but even having the track down first, the termination of the flooring wouldnt have a bearing on how high the track is in relation to the combined height of the underlay and laminate - unless you check that 1st thing.
I guess 'we' assume the mfgr's know what they're doing?!?!?
I know, "you what assume means......."
..Anyhow, Thats a new challange and twist to the install.
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- Any good recommendations for oriental carpet underlay for over the laminate.. That laminiate is slippery!!!!!
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Now I need to find 15" more of the endcap to surround my slate hearth. The piece came in 8' length and Im short 2" to include the mitre cut....
Oh.... so much fun......
Dontcha just love it..