Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Staining louvered doors
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chiefmac
05-29-04, 10:06 AM
Am looking for a good way to stain louvered doors made of unfinished pine.
Would using a Wagner or other spray gun work with stain?. Are there any special instructions for thinning etc before spraying? Thanks in advance for you help
Would using a Wagner or other spray gun work with stain?. Are there any special instructions for thinning etc before spraying? Thanks in advance for you help
chfite
05-29-04, 03:26 PM
Even if you are skilled at spraying, it may well be faster to stain them with a brush or cloth.
Boxarocks
07-20-04, 01:16 AM
Pine tends to go blotchy if stained improperly. Ask the oldest guy at the paint store how to avoid this irreversable error.
Wade R
09-11-09, 10:34 AM
Pine is very soft wood.
Before you stain it you need to use a wood conditioner on it.
Then the stain will not look blotchy.
Be very liberal when using conditioner - (soak it).
Then use an all-in-one stain.
It has varnish and stain already mixed for you.
You use as many coats as needed to get the darkness you want.
Minwax makes a good product.
I use it all the time.
You will put on at least 2 coats.
Make sure if your stain is oil based (I recommend oil base).
Than your conditioner needs to be oil based.
Use a good quality brush - now is not the time to go cheap on a brush.
A good brush is one that has finer bristles at the tip than the rest of the brush and costs about $8.
Staining louvered doors is a long task.
Lots of places for dripping.
Always be on the lookout for drips.
Use what I suggested and you will be satisfied with the results.
Wade
Before you stain it you need to use a wood conditioner on it.
Then the stain will not look blotchy.
Be very liberal when using conditioner - (soak it).
Then use an all-in-one stain.
It has varnish and stain already mixed for you.
You use as many coats as needed to get the darkness you want.
Minwax makes a good product.
I use it all the time.
You will put on at least 2 coats.
Make sure if your stain is oil based (I recommend oil base).
Than your conditioner needs to be oil based.
Use a good quality brush - now is not the time to go cheap on a brush.
A good brush is one that has finer bristles at the tip than the rest of the brush and costs about $8.
Staining louvered doors is a long task.
Lots of places for dripping.
Always be on the lookout for drips.
Use what I suggested and you will be satisfied with the results.
Wade
Gunguy45
09-11-09, 10:45 AM
5 y/o post Wade...
Welcome to the Forum, but try to look at the dates before posting. Everyone does it though...even old timers.
Welcome to the Forum, but try to look at the dates before posting. Everyone does it though...even old timers.
marksr
09-11-09, 03:21 PM
Ya but I would add, when the conditions allow, I prefer to spray louvered doors, but not with any type of airless!!! I'll use a cup gun and air compressor to spray the stain and then wipe with a rag. The sanding sealer/varnish or poly can be sprayed with either the cup gun or an airless. A good job can be had with a brush but spraying's quicker:D
I wouldn't recomend using a tinted poly on raw wood. Even though using wood conditioner first will make it a little easier to use, tinted poly can be tricky and unforgiving. It's easy to get lap marks:eek: If tinted poly isn't applied evenly it will look bad and it can't be over brushed.
I wouldn't recomend using a tinted poly on raw wood. Even though using wood conditioner first will make it a little easier to use, tinted poly can be tricky and unforgiving. It's easy to get lap marks:eek: If tinted poly isn't applied evenly it will look bad and it can't be over brushed.