Outdoor Animal Control - Squirrells and screens, any ideas???

Hello all
We have a very large screened in porch that we have had to rescreen twice now because the local "rodents" chew through it.
We are about to have it done again, and wonder if any of you have any ideas of screening that is squirrell proof or at least tough for them to get through.
We have had the regular fiberglass kind (that was easy for them) and the lite weight (I think it was aluminum) which took a little longer, but they did it.
There is no food on the porch, no animals, nothing. Just furniture.
They actually come right up to the large 3 panel glass door and stare into my dining room.
I have 5 cats and have tried putting there hair out on the porch and leaving the glass door open so they could smell the cats through the screen, but no effect.
I have tried moth balls, nothing. I have tried trapping and releasing in another area, but still they come. I even bough something called coyote urine and they didn't leave.
I have tried the red pepper stuff that you put on bird seed and that kept them away for a bit, but then we can't use the porch because when it blows around it bothers us.
We really need some help here!!! BTW we are in New England if that helps!
Thanks

squirrells like to chew on metals, if you dont want to use the bb gun, set out an ear of corn away from the house, get them used to going there. if you cant beat 'm, enjoy 'em.

I think gordypoo has the right idea of either destroying them or feeding then to keep them from exploring.

You don't say if you are in a city or are rural but we have successfully eliminated the squirrel problem in our rural area by destroying them as they appear.
We first tried the "softer" approach by securing sheds and closing openings but they worked even harder at getting in to things.
I found a hole chewed in in the top of a plastic storage bin and caught one hanging on the door of a shed, having nearly finished chewing a squirrel sized hole in the top of the door.

I find that after getting rid of ten or so in the spring they pretty much stop coming and would suspect that if you were to continue to live trap you may come to the end. Just make sure you take them a loooooong way away.

Or, just feed 'em.

Pet food dishes, bird feeders, and nut-bearing trees tend to be the most common attractions in landscapes for squirrels. Elimination of food sources is very important. While pet food dishes and bird feeders can be removed, nut-bearing trees remain a challenge. Make sure tree branches are cut back at least 10 feet from your home. Install gutter guards and cover downspouts with screening, as squirrels will crawl up downspouts to gutters and chew their way into your attic through fascia. Mother Nature provided squirrels with an instinct to gnaw through to hollow spaces for nesting.

Because squirrels tend to horde food and not eat it, poisons tend not to be effective. Poisons pose the risk of non-target animals eating it and also the risk of the squirrel dying and having to smell it, especially if it has entered your home. Patience, persistence, and trapping are highly recommended. Live trapping is reportedly easier to do, but relocation at a minimum of 10 miles from home is required. Kill trapping requires the use of a trap like the 'muskrat' trap. The risk is a pet or child may get caught in the trap. Peanutbutter and pecan paste are great baits. There are other types of traps available, including battery operated electrocution traps.

Be thankful squirrels have only chewed through the screened porch and not into your home. They tend to be very territorial. Observation is crucial to learn their paths of travel if trapping. Inspect your structure for potential entry points and make sure they are sealed. Spraying structure with Ropel Liquid to prevent gnawing. The last squirrel I spoke with said the stuff tastes awful.

There is no scientific evidence to support the use of coyote urine as a squirrel repellent, but it is sold and folks report results. It requires reapplication because of dew and rain. There are several squirrel repellents available, like Rid-A-Critter, but these require constant reapplication. If spraying a repellent, you will need to spray your structure, the lawn, and trees to keep squirrels at bay. Don't waste your money on sonic devices. The EPA & Consumer Reports state that there is no scientific evidence to support these 'human gullibility' devices.

Bottom line, live trapping and relocating is the most highly recommended squirrel control. Making sure the home is well sealed to keep them out of the home & keeping landscape clear of food sources are important. The use of repellents can make the landscape uncomfortable and 'dis-tasteful' for them. Remember, squirrels are smart & persistent and are looking for every opportunity to enter your home.

If squirrels have been chewing through screen near the bottom (remember, they can climb just about everything!), perhaps reinforcing along the bottom with a stretch of hardware mesh would be helpful. Keeping area around screened porch and screen wire sprayed with repellent should also help.

lots of helpful stuff here!!!
We did go through the problem of them getting into the attic. So, everything is tighly sealed as far as them getting INTO the house.
We do have two very large oak trees and the acorns are a big problem. I would really hate to take these trees down just to get rid of the pests. They are messy but beautiful trees.
We do have a Hav-a-heart trap and have done some relocation but there are so many it doesn't seem to make a difference. Last I looked I saw at least 3 nests in the nearby pines. The young ones routinly run around the yard playing.
I will search the local hardware store for the repellent and hopefully that will at least help some. And I can set up a feeding station a distance away from the house. We have a lot that is 150"x50' and the house is at one end so it would be pretty easy to do.
Again, many thanks for all your help. I will post and let you know if we have been able to make peace with the furry little guys!!
Liz

lots of trees, nearby river, skunks, racoons, an occasional fox or deer

Shooting can be used in rural situations. Most municipalities and residential areas have ordinances against the discharge of firearms.
Research tends to show that shooting is less effective than trapping, especially for established squirrel populations. Shooting is most effective when squirrels first appear and before populations become established. Some folks lure squirrels to a feeding station where they can be shot. Shooting squirrels in trees in winter when there are no leaves on trees tends to be more successful than winter trapping because of natural amounts of food available.

Make sure there are no restrictions in your area for discharging a firearm or for shooting squirrels for control. Here in Kentucky, you must have a hunting license. If you hunt at times other than normal Kentucky hunting seasons, you must contact your local conservation officer before killing any squirrels. Because squirrels are most active during the morning and evening, concentrate your hunting activities during these periods. Many types of firearms are capable of taking squirrels, but a shotgun loaded with #6 shot shells or a .22 caliber rifle is most effective. Be patient and persistent. Wildlife problems tend not be be solved quickly

Dito on the damage go get I high powered single pump single shot pellet gun Fires to 1000 fps Add a scope and your like special Ops one shoot is all it takes..

Shooting is not recommended in areas where there are firearm restrictions and tends not to be effective for established populations.

Take them out at the source.

Load the 12ga shotgun with #6 or #4 shot--even 000 buckshot. Not 00 buck--not enough pellets. Position your self under the nest at night and blast away.

My friend and myself use a .17 caliber varmit rifle and a very high power scope to reduce squirrel and pigeon population around his ranch. Ballistic tip bullets will not penetrate through the roof or sides of the barn if you miss a sitting pigeon. And, they are good for about 150yrds on a squirrel thats sitting on the ground. We perch in the upper levels of the barns and shoot down at the squirrels that are on the ground.

The squirrels are so bad, he made a feeder for them, to try and copncentrate them in one area. Easier to shoot them while they are occupied. Shooting from 100-150yrds away offers more opportunities to shoot. The squirrels don't hear the sound from the rifle, so they don't run away when we shoot. There one second, gone the next. :mask:

Hi Standingcows,

You've already gotten some great advice about removal and control, but you did mention that they had gotten in the attic. What I want to share I hope you will take VERY seriously.

In the house behind mine, I watched daily as squirrels went in and out of my neighbor's attic. I went to his house and told the elderly gentleman about them. He did nothing. A year later he passed away and someone new moved in. They remodeled the house with new siding, windows, paint, carpet, etc. We became friends and she even brought a couple of toads from her yard to live in my garden. Then one night about a year later I couldn't sleep and got up to watch tv in the living room. As I entered the room there was a lovely orange glow. Their house was on fire and the flames were leaping out of the roof!!! I began screaming out the door and my hubby called 911. It was 2 am and the coldest night of the year. Luckily all got out safely thanks to the smoke detectors. The firefighters said the cause of the fire was the chewed wires in the attic. PLEASE have every inch of wire checked in the attic once the squirrels are removed. I warned someone else and they did find chewed wires.

Newt