Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - tractor engine starting problem

I am trying to solve a problem long distance on a Craftsman tractor type mower # 917273041 Ser # 051198 C003112 with a no start problem. I cannot get the engine to start with the key switch, or by jumping the solinoid, although it will crank by jumping the solinoid. With the key on, and the engine cranking there is no spark visible from a plug removed from the engine. this indicates to me that it might be a key switch problem, but would like your opinions before I order a replacement. Ideas?

The inline spade fuse is ok, double checked it. Mower was working fine until it was parked last year.

Hello WML13!

Check the wire (I believe it is white) that connects to the keyswitch terminal marked "S" while turning the key to start. Make sure the clutch pedal is locked down and the blades are off. If you have voltage at that terminal at that time, then the keyswitch is working, if not, bad switch.

If you determine that the switch is good, Check the same wire at the solenoid. It is the single wire that is plugged onto the solenoid near the base. Check it while turning the key to start. If you have voltage, then the solenoid is bad. If not, then you have a safety switch problem.

WML13:
If the problem isn't a safety switch then look at the little block box safety solenoid. That solenoid is the heart of the safety system on your tractor. On some tractors you can remove that solenoid and check for spark. If you have spark you may need the solenoid. It may run without the solenoid but it won't shut off so don't try to start it without that safety solenoid.
Good luck.

Rogerh

Im asssuming its 12 volts at those terminals Im checking? It seemed that I ran into some 24 volt systems in the past...

And thanks!

You needn't worry about the amount of voltage. What you're concerned with is current. Using a test light: 1- Clip end of test light on the positive post of the battery (a good battery is essential) 2- Touch probe end of test light to the single, small wire on the solenoid (NOTE: there may be two small wires, one being a ground, the other being your power source) 3- Have a helper, if easier, turn the key to the start position. If the test light lights up, you have current to the solenoid and it is properly grounded. If not: 1- Poor ground possible: If there is a second small wire at the solenoid, be sure this is providing good ground to the frame. 2- Follow cheese's procedure (still using the test light) to test the key switch in order to eliminate the switch as the culprit. If you have current to the "S" terminal of the switch, this is good. If not, it will be one of your safety switches. If so, let us know and we'll help you through this.

How'd you make out? Let us know.

I havent been able to get to it, its in another city a few miles away. I will give you the story when I get a chance to run your diagnostics..Thanks!

Well, you asked how it went. When I got there, I found that the "new" battery wasnt new, and if it even had a charge it was gone. It also had a positive wire end so corroded it wouldn't have made contact if it HAD a good charge. I hooked up my portable 12 volt jump battery, depressed the clutch, checked the position of the implement engagement levers, pulled out the choke, and the engine started. After the flames went out from cursing my information source who was standing there, I left the area. Thank you all for arming me with the info I needed to go the next step if it had been necessary. I have filed it for future reference if I ever need it.

Our pleasure. Hope your buddy reimbursed you for your gas at least...LOL.

Well, that was easy, huh? At least you got it going! Glad we could help!