Flooring Tile - Grout color???

Wow! Are there a lot of different grout colors or what?!?!

Can anyone narrow it down a little?

We're doing a small bathroom (ony 5'x8') in a limestone-like porcelain 12"x12" tile. Walls will be yellowish, but paint can be changed. The adjoining hall flooring is a dark wood laminate.

I could just use a little directon. Something that matches the tile color, or an alternate color like traditional grey, or something???

It's mostly a matter of personal taste, as is the width of the grout line (within reason). The two most common approaches are the ones you mentioned: pick a grout color that brings out one of the colors in the tile, or pick a contrasting grout color that emphases the lines.

I would recommend staying away from the very light colors, unless nobody ever wears shoes in that room (because of potential staining). Personally, I kind of like a medium gray. It's an attractive accent for many tile colors and it doesn't show dirt much.

I recommend you start observing the tile floors you come across in public buildings and private homes. Make note of what you like and dislike and why.

If you really get stuck, you can buy a box of a grout in a candidate color. Then lay out some of your tiles with the spacing you want. Dry pour the grout between the tiles. It won't look exactly like the finished result, but it will give you a ballpark idea.

Let us know what you pick.

And the other end of the spectrum is the lighter grout that will blend in witht th tile and compliment the install by hiding any imperfections either in the tile or the oh so scarce flaw by the installer.There are plenty of good sealers on the market today to solve the staining problem or cure it so it won't be an issue

Great, thanks everybody. It's a good start.

I do plan to get the best sealer I can find.

I asked this in another forum, but I'll try here for a second opinion. Have a 1/8-1/4 inch dip in the concrete slab floor I'm getting ready to tile in porcelain. Should I just use a thick trowel and butter the backs of the tile too, or go with a self leveling compound (have it already, but it's pricey, so I'll return if need be)???

And finally, after the tile is in and I install floor trim, should it be caulked where tile meets trim AND where trim meets wall??? And should I caulk where toilet meets tile as well? I thought the wax ring took care of that.

I would'nt worry too much about that small of a dip in the floor you can back butter the tile in that area to work that out.Where the base meets the wall yes caulk that as well as the where it meets the floor and it is optional at the base of the commode.

Wax ring is to seal the flange and the bottom of the toilet so no gasses or other unwanted fluids or debris leak out :cool:

Thanks Floorman.

I actually think it was you that said that in the other forum too. No problem, you sound like you know what you're doing.
I'll go for it next week and report back. I'll use my trusty level to make sure I keep it even all the way across the room.
And allow for a little extra dry time maybe?

Grout lines for a 12x12 tile....1/8, maybe 1/4"??? I'll be using sanded grout.

It's a religious issue (some say do it, some day don't), but I like to run a bead of caulk around the base of the toilet before I set it. It prevents an overflowing toilet from running under the base, and it prevents slight irregularities in the tile from causing the toilet to rock.

And I like a 3/16" grout line for 12x12 tile.

Hi guys...

Went with the 1/4" gaps and am ready to grout. Been quite a few years, so help me remember.

I'll clean and dry any loose material left over from the thinset. Mix up the grout into one batch so the color stays consistant, use a damp spunge or float to spread it. Let dry about an hour and clean up the lines and excess grout on tiles with damp, almost dry, sponge. Then buff/clean the tiles again about 3 hours later with a little more damp sponge.
Then seal after it's fully cured...a day or two later.
Do I seal the caulk as well...or seal grout then caulk as the very last step in the room?

mix to a little wetter than a peanut butter consistancy and let slake for 10 to 15 minutes,then take a rubber float and spread the grout making sure you fill the joints full,let sit for about 15 or 20 minutes kinda dependes on the humidity and such,take you're finger and push on the joint if it indents easily then it is not ready if it is firm then go ahead and start the surrey wash,just eneough water to break through the dry layer and smooth the joint.You need to let this cure for about a week before sealing the grout too.Uh oh yea and let that dry for about an hour then wipe again with the sponge a little drier than the first time.

Caulk the next day and then seal the grout a bout a week later,makes sure the tile is clean cause anything that is there before you seal will be there for eternity :cool:

Thanks again Floorman.

Just to follow up....we went with a light gray (kinda split the difference) and picked up on a subtle color in the tile.. Finished product looks great!

For the grout...I actually had to wait almost an hour before doing the first wipe and shape. Did the final clean-up about 2-3 hours later.
Easy as spreading that peanut butter...just have to clean the water a lot.

Final question. Quality porcelain tile from Lowe's...does it need to be sealed along with the grout? Or do I apply that sealant to the grout lines only?
:D

When sealers first hit the market they were all chemical based and to be kept away from the face of the tile,since then most are water based now and can be spread over the entire tile.Make sure you get the water based one though before you spread over the entire surface,aquamix is a good one that you can get at lowes or h.d.Wait about a week then seal :cool:

Cool. I have Aquamix Pro-Solve 10 at home. I think it was the second best sealer they had and just couldn't justify paying the 30 bucks for a pint of the best.
Thanks again...now it's on to the electrical and making plans for the master bath. :D