Basements, Attics and Crawl Spaces - Basement project for a newbie!!

All -

My wife and I just purchased a new home (re-sell) and the non-walkout with full bath basement is unfinished.

I want to do it myself, but I don't know where to begin so I came here looking for help.

Is there some kind of 'checklist' I can use to make sure I do this project right?
Can anyone tell me where I might go to get some straight forward examples?
Other than starting here and asking for help, what would be the first thing(s) I should do?

Give me a computer and I can write code for it.
Give me a basement and I have to seek help finishing it, so any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
John

A lot starts out with what you think you want down there and how you will use it. Home depot and lowes have books on this

You can start : think about the heat for down there first and what you can do for it are how you want it .Put a 4 mil poly on the wall, build 2x4 walls to go up all around the basement. 1" off the wall. Now you can make them out of wood or you can use the steel studs. On the bottom plate you have to use a P/T 2x4 that is on the cement. Put a R13 insulation in the studs cover with a 4 mil poly V/B then the drywall.For the ceiling Id use a drop down T bar. this way you can put lights where you want move them later on if you need to. Get in it any time you want to move wires phone BLUE wire. Get to the plumbing.

You also want to put a block like of R19 unsulation in each joist space up there on the sill plate all around the home now.

Have any more ?????? come on back some one here can help.

If your a PC man you can help out in computers here

ED ;) ;)

I'd start with the $8 Hometime book "Basements" (http://www2.hometime.com/Admin/shopsite/b_1004.htm). It give a good project overview (including a checklist), but of course it isn't all you need to know. You'll want to study individually on framing, HVAC, plumbing, venting, electrical, lighting, insulating, drywall, and painting. It took me 18 months of nights and weekends working by myself. I did 100% of the work myself. I spent three months studying and planning before I put up the first board. The project requires a very patient family.

Of course I can offer what knowledge I have regarding computers.

As for the pointers and books to look in to THANKS!!

If anyone has photos they would like to share of before and after work done in the basement that would be appreciated.

Though it is a ways off, the main area that seems to make me the most nervous is how to go about framing around all the stuff in the ceiling area. The current duct work, the plumbing etc etc.

I am making my own checklist as well...

Thanks again and rest assured I will be back with more questions and updates (for those who are interested)

Cheers:D

Check out this webiste... The link was posted here in another thread somewhere. It's a site that a DIY'er put together as he finsihed his basement. Great site!

http://emrl.byu.edu/darren/pages/basement.html

Though it is a ways off, the main area that seems to make me the most nervous is how to go about framing around all the stuff in the ceiling area. The current duct work, the plumbing etc etc.

Thats why I said to think a T bar drop down ceiling works the best and you canalways get back into it to fix or move stuff around.


ED;)

Im in a very similar boat as you. Im a computer programmer and knew nothing about construction/remodeling. Between doing a lot of reading, getting a lot of help on here and lots of trial and error; in about 18 mos I went from completely unfinished, to an extra 1000 ft of liveable space in my house.

I went from at first thinking "how hard can this be?" to, "Oh my god, what have I gotten myself into?" to "ok, that wasnt so bad".

The biggest thing I think I worried about was moisture, fortunately I live in a newer home at a high elevation, so it wasn't much of a problem.

I can't tell you how satisfying it is to do it yourself though. We would have spent 3x as much paying someone to do what we wanted.

Good luck.

I'm am also considering finishing my basement to add another bedroom or two to make room for a second child. My basement already has much of the hard work done.
1) Some studded and finished walls are in place and can remain.
2) Most electrical outlets are in place in finished walls, however, a couple outlets may need to be added.
3) Heating and air ducts are in place for each proposed room, although I need to think about the return air situation.
4) Bathroom is plumbed with toilet, tub/shower plumbing, floor drain, and sink. There just aren't any walls, which is kind of weird when using the bathroom.
5) A single overhead light is provided for each future room, however, I hate these lights and would like to do something else, like recessed lighting if possible (oops, this might increase my electrical demand).

Anyway, I am trying to decide whether to do this completely ligitimate and get all required permits, or whether to just do it. On the one hand, it would be nice to have the piece of mind that someone is checking my ideas, on the other, I am afraid I will be required to rip-out half of the existing plumbing and electrical work because they don't meet today's codes. Can anyone give me any ideas base on experience? The main code issues in my mind are:

1)Fire egress: I am going to have a professional install an enlarged window with escape well that meets code.
2)Electrical Service: If I add load to my already maxed out service(at least on paper), then I may have my electrical service upgraded by a professional at substantial cost.
3)Electrical Wiring: I think I can study the books I have already purchased and perhaps have an electrician neighboor inspect for me.
4)Framing: I will need to put in floating walls since we have expansive soils in our area. The walls that are already in place are floating, so I can simply copy them.

I would like anyones thoughts on these items as to whether I am forgetting anything, or whether they suggest I submit all the required applications for county permits (I know this is a loaded question, but if I can't ask it here, I can't ask it anywhere). Thanks.

EricR: As I dont know where you are or what is there . Id say Just play dumb and go ask code there "what if "I do this and get the answers that way.


ED ;)

I am located in a suburb of Denver, Colorado. In reading through some of the other threads, I saw a suggestion to hire a private home inspector to consult on code issues. Would most home inspectors be willing to provide this service? Not knowing any better, it seems to me that these companies are geared more toward inspection prior to buying/selling a home. I am thinking that they want to do their 2 hour inspection, collect their money, and go on to the next house. How do I find someone knowledgeable enough about local codes that is willing to provide some quick, high value, consultation at an affordable price. Perhaps this is why people hire the job done, but I like the work and figure my labor is worth something, so why not use it.

Like I saidYour taxes pay for that guy down in code. Ask them why pay someone. Also they should have a code book that you can get there . Like I said just ask what if.

ED ;)

A lot starts out with what you think you want down there and how you will use it. Home depot and lowes have books on this

You can start : think about the heat for down there first and what you can do for it are how you want it .Put a 4 mil poly on the wall, build 2x4 walls to go up all around the basement. 1" off the wall. Now you can make them out of wood or you can use the steel studs. On the bottom plate you have to use a P/T 2x4 that is on the cement. Put a R13 insulation in the studs cover with a 4 mil poly V/B then the drywall.For the ceiling Id use a drop down T bar. this way you can put lights where you want move them later on if you need to. Get in it any time you want to move wires phone BLUE wire. Get to the plumbing.

You also want to put a block like of R19 unsulation in each joist space up there on the sill plate all around the home now.

Have any more ?????? come on back some one here can help.

If your a PC man you can help out in computers here

ED ;) ;)

There are several studies that conclude the suggested method of insulation will be disastrous. I suggest that a so-called "newbie" (of which I was too) perform the research theirself before investing time, money and health.

It was proven that over time, moisture will settle on fiberglass batts and with the addition of the vapor barrier, allow mold to have a nice place to grow. The rim joist insulation however is supported due to the location of it being somewhat above grade.

All -

My wife and I just purchased a new home (re-sell) and the non-walkout with full bath basement is unfinished.

I want to do it myself, but I don't know where to begin so I came here looking for help.

Is there some kind of 'checklist' I can use to make sure I do this project right?
Can anyone tell me where I might go to get some straight forward examples?
Other than starting here and asking for help, what would be the first thing(s) I should do?

Give me a computer and I can write code for it.
Give me a basement and I have to seek help finishing it, so any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
JohnSame boat. I'm starting all this now. No prior experience but don't want to pay $10-25k to have somebody do it. The best book I've found so far (not saying it's the best; it's the best I've thusfar found!) is Stanley's basement book. It was well ranked on amazon. Sold at home depot, but I got it at the library, too.

The book explains all the work you'll need to do. To do it technically right you need to call up your town and talk to the building inspector. Depending on town size this is one guy or multiple people. He can tell you want you need to do in regard to inspections to do this right so that it passes final inspection and everything is good to go. I am not sure if you can have them 'over inspect', i.e. come in more often than they have to just to make sure you're not screwing anything up.

However, generically across the nation I think _most_ things follow the same overall codes, but in this I am not sure, and in any case I do know towns vary enough that it's worth asking beforehand about any strange rule sthat must be followed.

Also, spend a lot of time on the net reading about these things. For example, in your case if you have a bedroom in the basement you need an egress, and likely in that actual room. Egress has to follow specific rules, like minimum width, height from floor, etc.

Everything I know I have read on the net or in a couple of library books. I feel I am possibly ready to start doing work in the next several weeks. I already have contained moisture in my basement with burying drains outside, and my sump barely runs, so next up is probably painting the walls and then looking into a vapor barrier...

Don't wait too long for an answer, it was 5-1/2 ears ago........

RR-0509c: Renovating Existing Basements — (http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0509c-renovating-existing-basements/view?searchterm=basement)

RR-0309: Renovating Your Basement — (http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0308-renovating-your-basment/view?searchterm=basement)


Be safe, G

Don't wait too long for an answer, it was 5-1/2 ears ago........

RR-0509c: Renovating Existing Basements — (http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0509c-renovating-existing-basements/view?searchterm=basement)

RR-0309: Renovating Your Basement — (http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0308-renovating-your-basment/view?searchterm=basement)


Be safe, G

Those are the references of which I am speaking. The other is a research project by the university of Minnesota (no stranger to winters effects on basements). Theirs is a similar set of recommendations - the common thread is don't use fiberglass batts with vapor barriers. The one exception taken with the guides from building science is the use of the thickness and brand of XPS foam board. The manuf specs that for use in exterior applications with the cutting of grooves. Grooves mean there is a void of initmate contact of the foam board to the substrate. That in my opinion, promotes the migration of vapor to condense and then settle. Also the thickness of the board is a bit overkill. The U of M recommends 2"" only for areas above grade and in the rim joist cavities. The temperatures below grade do not (in the U of M report) do not support the need for 2"" XPS