Walls and Ceilings - Drywall screws

What is the difference in coarse and fine drywall screws? I am building a partition wall with 1/2" drywall on a 2x4 frame. What type of screws should I use? I have hung drywall before, but I don't remember what screws we used. Is there a recommended length and coarse/fine recommendation for this specific application?
Thanks!

i could not tell you if there is a specification on what screws to use. but every project i have done i have always used fine threading because i feel they hold better. but thats just my two cents only.........someone with a more professional background might correct me.........

Use 1 1/4" coarse thread screws. Coarse is for wood and fine is for metal studs.

You ever come across square drive drywall screws? Just curious, I have a big "rock" project coming up :)

Thanks

You ever come across square drive drywall screws? Just curious, I have a big "rock" project coming up :)

Thanks
if you mean that instead of using a ''phillips bit'' where you have to use a square bit instead of a ''phillips''. yes i have used those as well

1 - I don't think there is any real difference between most drywall screws and deck screws of the same length. If you can find them short enough, deck screws can be found in square drive. I have not seen any fine thread versions if you are doing steel framing. We'll see if the pros know differently on differences and square drive in fine thread for steel - I am obviously not a pro...

2 - The biggest thing I learned in my drywall project is that if you are cutting into existing walls, never try to mate the factory edges of new sheets to holes you cut in existing walls - I spent twice the time doing five factory to cut joints than I did five inside corners and about 8 factory to factory joints. Instead, remove all existing sheets (back to corners or factory edges) of existing drywall and re-hang new drywall. Sure, it weighs alot and isn't fun to hang, but you will save tons of time getting it to look right. Inside corners are tough, but no where near as tough as getting a sawzall cut edge to look good when taped to a factory edge. That is my two cents.

3 - If you can find it as cheap as I learned I can get it through a subcontractor of a friendly developer I know - have a pro mud and tape. Especially if you are not used to taping and mudding. I spent way too much time on this aspect, and I could have had someone do the 15 sheets I hung for $180. Live and learn...

Good luck,
Nick

To drive square screws as opposed to philips. Especially with a screwgun that spins at 4000 rpm. Thanks, guys, I'll look for them.

The thread pitch affects the reliability of a positive clutch screwgun. If you are using a true drywall screwgun, the countersinking of screw heads might not be consistent with coarse thread screws.

At least with my Milwaukee screwgun I have found coarse screws to produce inconsistent results. I gave up and used my cordless drill. Of course, the screwgun might need breaking-in, or better operator.

If the screwgun is set correctly and operated correctly it won't make any difference whether you're using fine or course thread screws.