Plumbing and Piping - attaching street elbow to faucet

I would like to run the supply line to my faucet from the side instead of from directly under. Was thinking about using a street elbow, but I can only get 1-1/2 turn by hand of engagement of the elbow onto my faucet. Am I going about this all wrong? Is there something else I can use to direct the water supply from the side?

How about using flexible Stainless Steel supply lines?

I will be using flexible ss lines. But I still would like to make a tight bend at the faucet hookup, which will not be possible with any flex line.

Use 3/8" brass 90 compression fittings.
Good Luck!
Mike

Thanks Mike.

The 3/8" 90 won't work. I need the 90 to hook up to the faucet side. The threads at the faucet seems very similar to 1/2" iron, which is what my angle stops are. The problem is that the faucet has full threads, while the street elbow has tapered threads. Are there fittings that will thread onto the faucet besides flex lines?

The threads on the bottom of the faucet are 1/2" IPS. The S.S. flex lines will attach to them and seal just fine. What you need to concern yourself with is the OTHER end -- where the S.S. line attaches to the shut off valve. There are at least 5 different threads available for the outlet side of the shut off valve, and the supply line HAS to match up with the ones you have.

Thanks Lefty.

I have the correct hoses to make the hookup between the faucet and the angle stops. But what I don't want to do is to connect the hose directly to the faucet. But rather install a 90 at the faucet and then connect the flex to the 90 from the side.

I could connect the flex directly to the faucet and make a hard bend to the flex, but it would collapse the hose. Ideally, I would install a 1/2" ISP male-female 90 to the faucet.

Hope this is not getting too confusing. Do you know if there is such a thing as a 1/2" ISP male-female 90?

If you cut the 1/2" faucet tubing fittings off with a tubing cutter, I would think that the 3/8" compression 90s would work on the remaining tubing, but I can't see exactly what you're trying to do.

Use the street 90 to make the bend -- no problem there. Use pipe dope or teflon tape to connect the 90 the the faucet. The S.S. supply lines have their own rubber seal, much like a hose, so no tape or dope is needed where they will connect to the 90.

I'm putting a drawer under the sink in the bathroom. There is already a drawer front that is attached. Most vanities have some sort of covering that hides the sink.

When I remove this drawer front, the opening is 30" wide and 4-1/2" high. There is plenty of space on each side of the sink. But only 2-1/2" under the sink. I will make the drawer with a cutout in the middle to allow for the drain.

If I can get around having to connect the flex lines to the faucet from directly under each valve, I can make the drawer 4-5" deeper. There is room for a street 90 under each valve and it will not hang below the bottom of the sink. Then I can connect to the street 90 with the flex and run the line as close to the back of the cabinet as possible. I'm not too concerned if the street 90s ends up pointing the wrong way as I can rotate the valves, and reposition the handles.

I can only get 1-1/2 turns of the street 90 onto the valve by hand. Maybe a bit more if I use a wrench. What I notice is that the street 90 has tapered threads. Where as the threads on the valves do not have any taper to them.

So my problem is trying to thread the street 90, which is tapered, onto the valve, which is not tapered. If I put 2 street 90s together, I can get 3-1/2 turns by hand.

Is there any way to open up the threads in the female end of the street 90? In other words, remove the taper? Maybe I could file down the first 2 threads on the valves and make it taper.

What is the recommended minimum thread engagement? Would you ever make a connection with only 1-1/2 turns of engagement?

Lefty, you're right about the 1/2" IPS.

Don't worry about the taper -- IPS is IPS. If you get 3-1/2 turns by hand, use a wrench to align it after that. You're fine. Just keep turning it in a tightening direction, NEVER in a loosening direction. (THAT is a guaranteed leak!!)

Lefty,

The 3-1/2 turns was with a 90 into another 90. That told me how many turns with taper into another taper. But when I put the 90 onto the faucet, I only get 1-1/2 turns by hand. Is that enough threads for a good seal?

The number of turns on threads doesnt have any bearing, it is whether the connection is sturdy, leak free.


If you hook it up and it leaks, then you will have to keep turning it till it quits leaking.


:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: