Walls and Ceilings - Stipple Ceiling

I did a Google search on How-To stipple ceilings and didnt get very much help other than how to clean it and remove it. Is stippled ceilings really that bad?

I wanted to get a few tips on the best way to do this. I have been told to thin the compound and roll it on with a roller brush. Then dip the stipple brush in the bucket and mash the brush on the ceiling and pull straight down.

I want a heavy look (maybe 1/4~3/8) stipple.

Am I being told correctly?

Everyone's opinion is different. If you like the look then O.K. go with it. I would thin the mud out. Dip the brush in the bucket and then apply it to the ceiling. Try both ways and see which one works best.

Just my $.20 worth but, I get alot more requests to remove texture & slick finish than to texture a flat ceiling.

And any sort of textured ceiling is harder to keep looking good over the yrs than a slick finish.

Probably too late for you now but, I finished mine last night--much quicker than I expected (also took more mud than I expected!). Looks great.

Here's what i did: Tape off walls--I used tape with 22" dropcloth pre-attatched (pricey but deffinitely worth it). Thin the mud until it closes in behind your fingers when you run them through. Looks like thick cake batter. Roll on using heavy nap roller, one fill of the oller makes one line about 5 foot long. Alternate directions you start stroke from so both ends have some heavy coating. Don't wast time rolling it all out of the roller, keep refilling. I did about 4x6 sections. Work quickly. Cut in the edges with a brush (important because for consistent color there must be mud everywhere).

PRE SOAK your stipple brush (I used one called a panda paw) in hot water (only before you start for the day, not with each section). Then dip it in the thinned mud and flop it up there. You'll get a hang for how much mud to keep in the stipple brush to give the proper flopping action. Probably will need to re-load the stipple brush several times per section even with rolling mud on first.

Much easier than I expected to get good results. One added piece of advice, give your "sections" an uneven edge to avoid having a noticable line between your work areas.

as a plaster man drywall finisher,there are stipple brushes and crows foot brushes,i doubt most know the difference,also they come in single head and double head,

most stipple brushes come in black horse hair,and the ones that are laid flat are the crows ft ones.when we use to do plaster stipple it was done with stipple brush dipped in mud and then applied over finish layer of plaster.

when drywall mud is used,mud is made to thick milk shake,then rolled 3-5 ft strokes,after about 5 sq ft,go back cross roll,then take crows ft brush that has been wet,and dipped and shakenoff..use a paint exstension handle ,you actually stomp the ceiling,pull down6"to1 ft and keep stomping,and rotate head every time you stomp,a double head works,and looks best,

for the top professional,a mach 5 is used to spray wet drywall mud and 2 guys stomp the ceilings,one of these sprayers is 5000 dollars,good luck,jim

I want to remove/reduce my 'stipple'/popcorn ceiling. Tired of it..and keeping the ceiling clean. I have 2 heat registers in the ceiling and tired of the dirt in that area..and the cob webs etc. I dont want to go the route of spraying and removing all the old popcorn, so, so far Ive 'knocked down' the old popcorn with an old trowel which flattened out the popcorn. What a PITA and mess that was.
My plan was to do what 'caleyg' suggested by thinning my mud and applying it to the popcorn to fill it in...as well as fill some hairline cracks.
At first I was going to trowel the thinned mud on, but 'caleyg' mentioned using a thick nap roller to apply. Which type roller would work better - The foam type or cloth type? The foam roller I have is 'groved' (splits) for textured/coarse applications. Is this the kind to use..or no?
Should I cut the corners first (like when painting) or after - or does it matter? Do you think I should prime the old 'knocked down' popcorn first before applying the thinned mud....or dont bother? Just prime and paint after the new thinned mud is applied.
Time is an issue..as I still have to paint the rest of the room (LR)..then move on to the hall and DR.. I have a month to go before company comes.
Oh joy ..oh bliss....
Thanks for the info here.. great stuff.

first of all stipple and pop corn texture are completly different.pop corn is sprayed on with hopper gun,and stipple is wet mud troweled on or rolled on and texture with stipple brush on sponge.if if popcorn,after removing the top of the spray,if you are not down to the drywall,then its possible you might have a bonding issue.i tape and plastic off room the using a garden sprayer you pump up,put in hot water,and fog spray the area,not wet but damp,maybe 2 times,and this will scrape down to the board with 12"wide drywall knife,let dry,brush sand lightly and do repairs.if its going to be smooth then you need to touch up for this,if its crows ft,then you apply the loose wet mud with medium nap roller and stomp as you go,but this looks like a fine stipple,good luck,i have done many as i have described to you,jim

I'd really like to avoid the spraying and knocking down the whole ceiling, so that is why I was hoping to just skim coat it instead. If the roller idea wont work, I guess I'll just try to trowel it on.

what are you trying to have it look like,texture or smooth,i redid a room for someone,scraped off the texture,touched up the board,and trowelled set mud,over the hole ceiling,and made a light skip trowel texture,looked very nice.but i also damped it down.sometimes i also roll a bonding agent on(link),and this gives me a extra bond for the new surface,i have been redoing ceilings for 30 years,jim

..Trying to get it smooth, or as smooth as possible.
After I scrapped the popcorn down to flattened dimples, I trowled on a skim coated the whole ceiling yesterday, (length wise) and covered all the popcorn and filled in the low spots around the 2 heat registers. Looks pretty good. Only some small dimples remain and the lines between passes of mud. Today, I plan on doing a light sanding and see what that result is. Depending on that, we'll decide if (any) or some of the texture left is acceptable...and if not, I'll do another coat (width wise) to cover it again. I think that may do the trick. Wont know for sure until its done.
I was hesitant on the 'spray' process 'coz I didnt know the condition of the ceiling boards under the popcorn.
Will let you know how it goes.
Thanks for your info and feedback.

you can skim ,and sand,or roll with wet mud,and stomp also with stomping brush.you can also use a medium roller to apply thin wet mud,and wipe down very tight to skin it out,jim

Well, the skim coat turned out pretty good, for the most part. Some irregularities, but that is to be expected. Actually, it looks kinda 'old world' - not 100% smooth - and will probably match pretty well with the cultured stone around the fireplace and our old oak furnature. The Mrs. likes it..so thats fine by me.
For the hall and DR, I'll probably just scrape down the popcorn, then prime and paint...that will fill in a good portion of the 'old' popcorn. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks again, Jim
Thomas

if you thin down the mud and put small amounts in middle of trowel you can pull and lay trowel down to creat a lace or light skip trowel finish,looks antique,you always keep turning trowel so its not uniform,,you would have to do a small area,it creates a light bark type texture,jim

I guess I couldve/shouldve reflected back on my 'concrete' days .. and maybe skimmed the ceiling a bit differently..sorta like you mentioned. As it is now, there's a mix of smooth and not so smooth, w/nibbles appearing thru where the mud was applied a little thinner. The pattern established runs the width of the room..which will coinside with the laminate thats planned to go in soon. May make the room look wider...
Just curious..
Do you caulk the ceiling to wall joints..or just leave them plastered? When I turned the guest bedroom into our office, I just plastered the joints..but then I was trying to match the old popcorn. Since I nixed the popcorn in the LR, should I cault the joints for a cleaner 'brake'? ... because I notice a ridge or rather an inside grove at the joint..(probably from me not having the blade at a higher angle when applying the plaster).
Or just run a bead of mud with the finger to close the gap?
Thanks for your expertise....


ps.. You mentioned earlier about a 'bonding' agent (link) didnt work. I know its too late now, but how often is that required,: and what circumstances?
..Do you usually use an oil based primer too?
TIA

you can run light bead of good paintable latex,and lay the bead down with wet finger,or damp paint brush.a good quaily latex primer,or usg primer from plaster,drywall supply house.if you have gap at ceiling wall joint you might have to caulk twice,we normally prefill with set drywall mud and tape it flat to wall,but if wall is going to be painted then corner tape and smooth out,so its
3 options,caulk, flat tape to wall ,but prefill void, or prefill then corner tape,jim

Cool. I think I'll do the caulk. Enough taping and plaster for this room..Phew.
Next.. the DR.
Thanks