Wallpaper and Wallcoverings - Wallpaper! Grrrr...

Hi all, new user here. I have a few questions, so please bear with me.

Our new house has wallpaper everywhere! Not only is most of it ugly, but it's old, and in lots of spots, apparently there's 2 coats. Some of it is vinyl and will come off easily after the paper backing is exposed. Some of it is probably original, and is so hard it chips. THis stuff(the older stuff), is impervious to the paper tiger and DIF.

So, the older paper is chipping away and exposing wallboard paper. Rather, it is tearing up and leaving a pretty shredded layer of wallboard paper in it's wake. When I'm done, can I just sand it and put a layer of joint compound over it and then texture?

Quickly again, What's the best way besides a paper tiger and DIF, and how do I prep a wall where there wasn't much of a layer of compound originally and the wallboard paper is exposed?

Thanks,

Sam

The best way to remove it is the method you are doing. Soak it, soak it, and soak it some more.

After its all off, (or won't come off), you can sand the walls smooth as possible, prime with a coat of oil primer. Or if you aren't comfortable using oil, you can apply 2 coats of Zinsser's Gardz, or DrawTite by Scotch Paints. Lightly sand again and smooth over with joint compound. Several thin coats will probably be necessary.

Now prime with a high-quality latex primer, suited for your next step, whether paper or paint.

THanks for the reply Prowallguy. Since the wallboard backing tore so badly when removing the wallpaper, we've canded down the surface of it, and I plan on levelling it all out with joint compound. After the levelling layers dry, I'll apply a texture layer and paint.

Can you give me any pointers on texturing or how to use joint compound in general? I'm thinking it's akin to autobody work, and if so I have more than the skills necessary to complete the job.

How thick to the skimming and levelling layers of the compound have to be, both in thickness and in consistency?

Sam

Autobody repair <> wall repair = kinda close

Mix the mud with a little water using a drill and mixer bit or paddle. You want it kinda stiff and creamy, but not runny. You should be able to scoop some out of the bucket with a spackle knife, and have it sit on the knife without running off.

Float it as thin as possible. Several coats are better than a few real thick ones. Yet sometimes if I have BIG divots and tears, I float a thicker basecoat and leave over night, then come back and start leveling.

If this is your first time floating, don't try to use the quickset type, that you make with powder and water. Use the pre-mix. I don't even use the quickset, its just to hard to mix creamy, and dries too quick, I end up wasting a lot.

Its like the old saying, wax on, wax off. I use a 6" knife, and a 12" knife. Apply mud liberally with the 6", then use 12" to scrape back off, leaving mud in only the low areas. After a couple coats, everything should be level. Don't sand in between mud coats, only when finished. Between coats, you can use the 6" knife to scrape off ridges or bumps in the dry mud. If its floated correctly, you should be able to just lightly sand the edges of the patches, instead of the whole patched area.

You might want to post this question in the 'patching and plastering' forum also, might get some better advice there.

A Good Way To Remove Paper Is A Spay Bottle With White Vinager And Hot Water Spay On And Let Sit And U Can Wipe It Right Off Good Luck :)