Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery - tablesaw problem

I'm putting this question in the woodworking section because I think woodworkers would better be able to give me an answer.

I have a Jet 10" contractor table saw, that is about 5 years old. Ever since I bought it I have not been able to get clean cuts from it. The blade always walks after a few inches, leaving sawblade marks on the edges.

I have checked that the blade is parallel to the fence. Ihave tried different blades. Even blade stabilizers, nothing seems to work.

hope someone has a tip.

thanks in advance

kwick65:

Is this a direct or belt drive?
What kinds of wood?

You might want to check that the motor or if belt drive the mandrel is secure.
Also, could you be feeding too fast or slow?

Often a rough edge is from either too few teeth or feeding too fast.

I went to one of those linked belt setups a couple of years ago and it took a lot of the blade wobble out of my old Craftsman saw.

it is a belt drive. is it a common problem with them?

No, not really.

Try this.

With the SAW UNPLUGGED, remove the table insert and raise the blade to the top.
Grab the blade and move it to see if you can detect any movement in the mandrel or mechanism.
If not lower the blade to the height you have this problem at, make sure the saw is still UNPLUGED and check for movement there.

If you still cam't figure it out I suggest you call the service rep for Jet in your area.
I'm sure they would be glad to help, especially since it did this from new.

Still with the saw unplugged, spin the blade slowly by hand and see if it spins true or wobbles.

Kwick,

Does this happen whether you use the fence or the miter guide?

The reason I ask is that your fence wouldn't have to slip but a tiny bit to give you the problem. Also, the fact that you get a few inches of clean cut before it starts leaving teeth marks doesn't seem consistent with a wobbly blade. You should be getting those right from the get-go.

Try clamping the far end of your fence to the table after you lock it down and run a test piece.

Seems like you've done a lot with the blade to no apparent avail so I'd start looking elsewhere. :)

Tom

I agree that it sounds like a loose mandrel or crooked/shifting fence.

Also, if you aren't already doing this, set the blade height so that only 1/4" of blade protrudes above the piece being cut. It may be more prone to do what you describe if you are cutting parrallel to the grain rather than across the grain, especially on soft woods with hard rings, like yellow pine.

Do you have sacrificial boards attached to your fence and miter guide? I've found that slight variations (a few thousandths) can occur depending on how much I tighten these.