Flooring Tile - Mudding around a brass drain.
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Labman
01-22-04, 07:29 PM
I am preparing to mud the copper shower pan and I have a 2 part brass drain. the base is sweated to the pan and the 2nd part threads into it to make it adjustable with the finished floor height.
The big question I was hoping some one in the trade or knowledge of it would be able to answer is, how close do I want to get the mudd to the finish drain throat , (the threaded part)? I realize tile will go around the drain plate, and be grouted , since this drain has no weep holes I assume I almost want to butt the mud to the outside of the drain pipe.
Does this sound correct? Any advise is appreciated.
Geo
The big question I was hoping some one in the trade or knowledge of it would be able to answer is, how close do I want to get the mudd to the finish drain throat , (the threaded part)? I realize tile will go around the drain plate, and be grouted , since this drain has no weep holes I assume I almost want to butt the mud to the outside of the drain pipe.
Does this sound correct? Any advise is appreciated.
Geo
D Taylor
01-23-04, 04:13 AM
Something does smell fishy and it's not the chowda down here on Cape Cod. :)
Let's start from Square One. Was there a pre-slope of mud done before the copper pan was installed? If your answer is no, you have a little work to do and it'll start with the removal of the copper pan.
Secondly, the drain should have weep holes. It's the only way water that sits in the pan has a chance of getting out before it turns your shower into a septic system. Ironically, I just finished doing the removal of a similar set-up in Falmouth; no weep holes, no pre-slope and the original tile installer was nowhere to be found. The job lasted a total of 6 months before it failed. I'm surprised it took that long.
I'd suggest you get the plumber back and ask him why he did it that way. It's certainly not to MA code the way it is now. Even better, get him to remove his work, pay you back and then you can go with another system that doesn't use the copper pan method. If you run into any problems with him, let me know. We're always talking with plumbers that have no clue what they're doing in a shower. :)
Let's start from Square One. Was there a pre-slope of mud done before the copper pan was installed? If your answer is no, you have a little work to do and it'll start with the removal of the copper pan.
Secondly, the drain should have weep holes. It's the only way water that sits in the pan has a chance of getting out before it turns your shower into a septic system. Ironically, I just finished doing the removal of a similar set-up in Falmouth; no weep holes, no pre-slope and the original tile installer was nowhere to be found. The job lasted a total of 6 months before it failed. I'm surprised it took that long.
I'd suggest you get the plumber back and ask him why he did it that way. It's certainly not to MA code the way it is now. Even better, get him to remove his work, pay you back and then you can go with another system that doesn't use the copper pan method. If you run into any problems with him, let me know. We're always talking with plumbers that have no clue what they're doing in a shower. :)
floorman
01-23-04, 03:54 PM
Did'nt know copper was still used,thought that was an antiquated way of doing things in a plastic world.Mr taylor is right about all of what was said the pan needs a pre-slope and the pan has to have weep holes.
What will happen besides being a mold factory is the pressure from the water will push it's way up and out reaking havoc on the tile job,it's destined to fail.
But otherwise you would want the mud to go to the edge of the drain,put you some little rocks or some thing that will still allow water to drain bot not stop the holes up.You can even screw the drain inand use for a spot for you're screed when mudding then back the drain out a little to allow for tile and thinset,but get the pan fixed first before doing anything else:cool:
What will happen besides being a mold factory is the pressure from the water will push it's way up and out reaking havoc on the tile job,it's destined to fail.
But otherwise you would want the mud to go to the edge of the drain,put you some little rocks or some thing that will still allow water to drain bot not stop the holes up.You can even screw the drain inand use for a spot for you're screed when mudding then back the drain out a little to allow for tile and thinset,but get the pan fixed first before doing anything else:cool: