Plumbing and Piping - Water Heater change out

I'm getting ready to change over from elec. to a NG water heater. This house has 3/4 inch waterlines, but the original WH was under the house in the crawl space. When they went with the new water heater (appears to be in 1993) instead of running 3/4 inch copper they ran 1/2 inch to the exsisting 3/4 inch lines. The total run was about 15ft. Should I repipe it to 3/4 inch? Would I notice any difference in water pressure, etc.? BTW, the water pressure is good althought it does take a little longer than I like to get hot water.

I doubt it would make a lot of difference but if it's handy to do so change them to 3/4. I'd guess since you are plumbing from elec to gas, you have a lot of work to do with venting and running gas lines. If you gone that far you might as well change the water line and be done with it... :)

I'll decide on it when I'm ready to do the change out. Thanks for replying.

Check with your Building Inspection Department regarding local codes.
You may not be allowed to install a gas water heater under your house in some jurisdictions.
Good Luck!

Water heater is located in the garage, actually a utility room off of the garage. The house was built in 59. So I guess back in the day, some water heaters were located in the crawlspace like old heating furnaces were.

No problem then. (Don't forget to install a combustion air vent in the utility room door, too.)
I still see a few old fuel oil floor furnaces and even have older homes with knob-and-tube wiring around here. LOL
Good Luck!

If you put the heater in the garage, it needs to be 18" off the floor.

If it goes back in the crawlspace, you need to double the fresh air vent requirement. (my local code, IRC)

let us know where you are locating the unit so you have a good idea of what is needed for proper placement.

Is it code now, that gas water heaters are supposed to be elavated off the ground? I've noticed that most newer construction, they are off the ground. Where I used to live it sat right on the floor in a vented closet

Yes, for just about any close source of igitable fumes. Stands are cheap and can be bought at Homey Depot / Lowes type big box stores.

T&P valve needs to be drained to a convient floor drain OR outside (this is a real code issue here locally and in some cases, a real pain in the a**.)

Just for your information, if you fall under IRC code. If the T&P termination is outside OR in another room where you can not see the end, an air gap device has to be installed on the T&P line so the heater's T&P valve can be checked for operation and leakage at the tank. These little brass airgaps made by Watt's only add about $50 to the cost.

T&P?

Originally posted by AVRECON
T&P?

Temp/Pressure Relief Valve

Thank you:o